All 24 items on offer at the first gender-free live auction of bejeweled and embellished vintage timepieces at Sotheby’s found buyers, with the entire group selling in less than an hour.
The top item at the sale, called Rough Diamonds, was a Patek Philippe Ref. 3290 bracelet watch, ring and necklace set, created in 1962 by Gilbert Albert, decorated with enamel and pearls. The set sparked a more than six-minute battle between seven bidders, finally selling for CHF 393,700 ($435,727), over seven times its high estimate, Sotheby’s said Friday.
In total, the April 11 auction garnered CHF 1.2 million ($1.3 million), nearly twice its upper presale price.
“Rough Diamonds was born from the desire to bring to market a concept watch sale that truly resonated with collectors,” said Josh Pullan, global head of Sotheby’s luxury division. “The results of tonight’s sale, with all 24 lots selling to such a diverse and enthusiastic group of buyers, has validated that vision. The fact that the Gilbert Albert-designed Patek Philippe — the most idiosyncratic and extravagant lot in the sale — has become the most valuable lot sold tonight proves that there is a definite appetite amongst buyers for nonconformist and boldly eccentric timepieces, presented in a differentiated context.”
Other items that performed well included two Audemars Piguet watches. The first, a Cobra Royal Khanjar from 1985, brought in CHF 165,100 ($182,724), while a car-shaped white gold, diamond and emerald-set wristwatch from 1995 fetched CHF 107,950 ($119,474). Both pieces smashed their high estimates. Meanwhile, a Patek Philippe bangle watch from 1976 more than doubled its upper price tag, going for CHF 63,500 ($70,279).
Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) chief executive Ari Epstein resigned unexpectedly on Thursday, the AWDC’s board of directors said in a statement.
A spokesperson for AWDC, Belgium’s main diamond industry group, said on Friday that Epstein, who had been CEO for 13 years, did not wish to communicate about the reason for his sudden departure, but Belgian financial newspaper De Tijd reported that Russian diamond sanctions had been the cause of conflict between the diamond sector and the Belgian government.
AWDC did not say who would replace Epstein as CEO. Epstein did not immediately respond to a request for comment sent via LinkedIn.
Following an EU ban on Russian-origin diamonds that took effect on March 1, rough and polished diamonds have to enter the EU and G7 countries with documentary proof and declarations that the stones are not of Russian origin.
Antwerp’s diamond dealers have said they are facing long and costly delays as a consequence.
The American Gem Trade Association announced that, starting at Tucson next year, exhibitors will not be allowed to sell lab-grown diamonds or colored gemstones at the AGTA GemFair.
National Jeweler received a news release on AGTA’s decision via email Wednesday morning. The release also was posted on the AGTA website, though it had been removed by Wednesday evening.
AGTA CEO John W. Ford Sr. said the news release was “pulled by error,” and would be reposted today.
According to the release, AGTA’s new rule bans the display of loose gemstones or jewelry “comprising non-natural gemstones, ones that are man-made, synthetic, or lab grown.”
AGTA said its dealers can still sell lab-grown gems if they are disclosed, but only natural gems can be made available for purchase at GemFair.
The association said it enacted the ban to “thwart potential confusion,” confusion it sees happening in the lab-grown diamond industry and fears will affect the colored gemstone industry, even though lab-grown colored stones have been around for more than a century.
When asked what led to the belief that confusion was occurring, or could occur, in the colored gemstone market, Ford said in an email to National Jeweler, “Look no further than the chaos created by synthetics in the diamond industry … Our action is also in response to considerable concerns voiced by AGTA membership in relation to the adverse effects that synthetics could also potentially cause in the colored gemstone industry.”
While the AGTA’s decision has made headlines, it does not seem poised to have a big impact on AGTA GemFair exhibitors, few of whom sell lab-grown gemstones anyway.
In his email, Ford said out of the 260 exhibitors of loose or set gemstones at the 2024 AGTA GemFair Tucson, only two list that they sell synthetic gemstones in the AGTA Source Directory.
“Since sending out over (260) 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson renewals, we’ve had an overwhelmingly positive response from the vast majority of our exhibitors, greatly outweighing any negative responses,” he said.
Related stories will be right here …
In its news release, AGTA also noted that lab-grown gemstones lack the value inherent to natural gemstones, which are rare and sometimes inimitable.
“AGTA felt that it needed to be crystal clear to buyers that when they attend an AGTA show, they know that they are only shopping mined natural gems from the earth,” said Kimberly Collins, AGTA board president and owner of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems.
“AGTA dealers pride themselves in sourcing superior gems that are rare, beautiful, and natural.”
AGTA also notes that “synthetic gems are not minerals.”
The association said it recognizes two definitions of the word “mineral”—that of the British Geological Survey, defining a mineral as “a naturally occurring substance with distinctive chemical and physical properties, composition, and atomic structure” and that of the U.S. Geological Survey, which defines a mineral as a “naturally occurring inorganic element or compound having an orderly internal structure and characteristic chemical composition, crystal form, and physical properties.”
“The definitions are essentially the same, but the keyword in both that is important is use of the word ‘natural,’” said AGTA board member John Bradshaw.
“It’s important to indicate that synthetic gems are not considered minerals, because minerals are natural, and synthetics are not.”
Ads for synthetic diamond jewellery have been banned after the UK company behind them, Skydiamond, did not make it clear they were not real.
Even though the strapline of the newspaper advert was the “world’s first and only diamond made entirely from the sky” and a social media ad said “love is… a diamond gift made from the sky”, there were complaints from the National Diamond Association.
The advertising regulator upheld the complaints and concluded that the ads were misleading and said they could not appear again in the same form, including on the company’s website without, better explanation.
Skydiamond, the trading name for The Sky Mining Company Ltd, was told by the Advertising Standards Authority not to use the terms “diamonds”, “diamonds made entirely from the sky” and “Skydiamond”, and not to describe its synthetic products “without a clear and prominent qualifier”.
The firm was told by the ASA that it must use terms such as ‘synthetic’, ‘laboratory-grown’ or ‘laboratory-created’, “or another way of clearly and prominently conveying the same meaning to consumers” and were not to use the claim “real diamonds” to describe synthetic diamonds.
Sky Mining said both the ads and extensive information and graphics on its website set out that their diamonds were manufactured in a laboratory, with detailed information on the production process on its website.
The company said the very brand was built on the premise that their diamonds did not come from the earth and do not have the negative environmental impacts associated with diamond mining, with all components required sourced from the sky: atmospheric carbon dioxide (as a source of carbon), rainwater (as a source of hydrogen) and renewable energy from solar and wind power.
As explained on the company’s website, Skydiamonds are made from carbon dioxide and hydrogen extracted and produced using proven industrial processes and combined to form methane in a biological process, with methane fed into chemical vapour deposition machines in which diamonds developed at a high temperature over 14 days.
It says for every carat of Skydiamond produced, greenhouse gas emissions are reduced by 99.79% compared to mined diamonds, and that compared to growing diamonds in a laboratory, mined diamonds produce 4,383 times more waste, use 2.14 times the energy and 6.8 times as much water.
The ASA acknowledged that further information on the Sky Mining manufacturing process appeared on About Us pages of the website among other pages.
“However, in the absence of a clearly worded and prominent qualification such as ‘synthetic’, ‘laboratory-created’ or ‘laboratory-grown’, or another way of clearly and prominently communicating the same meaning, we considered it was still ambiguous as to whether the diamonds were synthetic or not,” the regulator said.
Industry veteran Stuart Brown, who has led multiple diamond-mining companies, will become chairman of the board at Lucapa Diamond Company.
Brown spent 20 years at De Beers, with stints as both interim CEO and chief financial officer. He was also the head of Firestone Diamonds from 2013 to 2018, and CEO of Mountain Province for three years, Lucapa said Monday.
During his time at Firestone, he raised $225 million to develop the Liqhobong mine in Lesotho, Lucapa noted. He is currently a director of Ukrainian iron-ore miner Ferrexpo and of Digby Wells Environmental Holdings, a provider of environmental, social and governance (ESG) consulting services to the mining industry.
In addition, Ronnie Beevor will take a seat on the board. He has experience in investment banking and mining, having been the head of Rothschild Australia. He is currently a director of Canadian iron-ore miner Champion Iron and Canadian explorer Mount Royal Resources. He serves as chairman of gold explorer Felix Gold and has recently retired as chairman of Bannerman Energy.
Meanwhile, Ross Stanley has resigned from Lucapa’s board, the company added.
An unmounted 55.55-carat diamond was the top seller at the most recent Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong, bringing in HKD 45.2 million ($5.8 million).
The price for the oval brilliant-cut, D-flawless stone, named the Fortune Five, fell within its HKD 38 million to HKD 50 million ($4.9 million to $6.4 million) presale estimate, Sotheby’s said Saturday. In total, the April 6 Magnificent Jewels sale garnered HKD 285.7 million ($36.5 million), with 76% of items finding buyers.
Colored diamonds and gemstones proved popular choices, comprising half of the best sellers, as were jewels from well-known design houses, including Graff, Harry Winston, & Tiffany & Co.
Here are the rest of the top 10 items at the sale:
This ring, set with a cushion-shaped, 7.01-carat, fancy-vivid-yellowish-orange, VS2-clarity diamond, smashed its $2 million upper estimate to fetch HKD 29.5 million ($3.8 million).A Harry Winston ring bearing a cushion-shaped, 16.65-carat Kashmir sapphire flanked by two triangular diamonds just missed its high price, bringing in HKD 19.8 million ($2.5 million).Sotheby’s sold this ring featuring a cushion-shaped, 5.07-carat, pigeon’s blood Burmese ruby surrounded by diamonds for HKD 12.7 million ($1.6 million), just under its lower estimate.A ring with a cushion-shaped, 66.44-carat, fancy-intense-yellow, VS2-clarity diamond, offered without reserve, went for HKD 11.6 million ($1.5 million), a bit shy of its upper presale price.A necklace with 29 intense-green jadeite beads secured by a ruby and diamond clasp realized HKD 10.7 million ($1.4 million), within its expected range.This unmounted emerald-cut, 20.19-carat, D-flawless, type IIa diamond garnered HKD 10.7 million ($1.4 million), within its presale price parameters.A pair of earrings, each set with a step-cut Colombian emerald — one weighing 10.84 carats and the other 9.79 carats — and diamonds, beat predictions to yield HKD 10.4 million ($1.3 million).This Harry Winston ring containing a pear-shaped, 15.26-carat, D-color, VVS1-clarity diamond center stone achieved HKD 7.7 million ($989,602), falling slightly below its HKD 7.8 million ($1 million) lower presale price.A ring by Graff set with an oval-shaped, 10.02-carat, D-flawless diamond, between two heart-shaped diamonds, brought in HKD 7 million ($892,264), within its original range.
A 6.21-carat pink diamond will be the star of the second jewelry auction Phillips will hold in Geneva, where it is expected to fetch up to CHF 13.6 million ($15 million).
The fancy-vivid-pink, VS1-clarity, type IIa diamond ring is among several important and rare pieces on offer at the sale, called Geneva Jewels Auction: Two, which will take place on May 13, Phillips said Tuesday. The auction will be at the Hotel President Geneva for the first time, and it will include over 100 specially curated items from well-knowns design houses such as Cartier, JAR, Suzanne Belperron, and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Prior to the sale, Phillips will exhibit the jewels in New York; London; Taipei, Taiwan; and Singapore. The auction house will also hold a simultaneous selling exhibition called “Symbols, Colour and Form,” which will feature jewels from contemporary designers Alix Dumas and DYNE.
Here are the rest of the of the top five items Phillips will feature at the main sale:
This 280.84-carat Colombian emerald is from a private collection. Known as The Amazon Queen, it carries an estimate of CHF 1.4 million to CHF 2.4 million ($1.5 million to $2.6 million).A 27.27-carat, fancy-vivid-yellow diamond ring will also go under the hammer. It is expected to bring in between CHF 1 million and CHF 1.8 million ($1.1 million to $2 million).A pair of earrings set with pear-shaped, D-flawless, type IIa diamonds weighing 10.07 and 10.12 carats has a presale price range of CHF 1.2 million to CHF 1.6 million ($1.3 million to $1.8 million).Phillips will offer this brilliant-cut, 1.56-carat, fancy-red Argyle diamond at the Geneva auction. Named The Argyle Phoenix, it is estimated at CHF 910,000 to CHF 1.4 million ($1 million to $1.5 million).
Blackstone Inc. (BX), the investment firm headquartered in New York, is reportedly looking to raise $300m through the IPO of India’s International Gemological Institute (IGI).
Examining a diamond Based on a Reuters report, this gemstone certification company aims for a valuation of about $1.5bn.
In May 2023, Blackstone bought IGI for $570m from Fosun International Limited (0656.HK) and the Lorie family, who founded the company. Describing itself as the world leader in the grading and accreditation of gems, IGI operates mainly in India.
According to Reuters, the organisation appointed Morgan Stanley (MS) and Kotak to captain its market debut. As of April 2024, IGI has 29 laboratory facilities worldwide that grade and appraise jewellery, natural and lab-grown diamonds, and other gemstones. Although founded in Belgium, this company’s main financial arteries are in India.
A Reuters source indicated that IGI aspires to boost interest in lab-grown diamonds in India. Although these resemble diamonds, they are less expensive. This country cut the taxes on the production of lab diamonds to promote the practice and product.
In 2021, India’s jewellery sector carried a value of $78bn. Most of its products are exported, but there seems to be a local shift from gold to diamonds. Blackstone is reportedly keen to push on with the IGI IPO as India’s debut scene is the most vibrant in the Asian market sphere.
LSEG data shows that during the first quarter of this year, Indian firms amassed approximately $2.3bn in IPOs. That is a big jump from the estimated $166.5m raised during the same period last year.
An unusually warm winter in Canada this year has delayed the opening of a 400-kilometer (250-mile) ice road that is rebuilt every year as the main conduit for Rio Tinto, Burgundy Mines and De Beers to access their diamond mines in the remote Arctic region.
The Winter Road, which serves the region accessible only by air for 10 months of the year, opened with a two-week delay in the middle of February, disrupting movement of goods along the ice road built over 64 frozen lakes.
Earlier this week, the Tlicho government in Northwest Territories (NWT) restricted movement of commercial trucks for few days in one of the winter roads due to anticipated warmer weather across the North Slave Region.
While diamond production remains unaffected, the delay underscores the challenges that companies face as the mines that make Canada the world’s third largest diamond producer come to the end of their productive life.
It also highlights the infrastructure hurdle for the NWT and Nunavut that are positioning themselves as the next frontiers in the exploration of critical metals, such as rare earth, cobalt and lithium, in the transition to a greener future.
The delays in building the Winter Road, which first became operational in 1982, have happened in the past, but this year’s is the longest delay in recent years, according to Tom Hoefer, senior advisor to the NWT and Nunavut Chamber of Mines.
“We did start the road a bit later as a result,” he said.
Climate change, driven by the burning of fossil fuels, coupled with the emergence of the natural El Nino climate pattern, pushed the world into record heat territory in 2023.
The impact of El Nino this year resulted in Yellowknife, the capital of the NWT, recording a maximum temperature of zero degrees Celsius (32 degrees Fahrenheit) in December and minus 8.7 degrees Celsius (17.6 F) in February, making it the warmest winter days in a decade, according to data from Environment Canada.
The Winter Road opens between late January and early April and requires minimum of 29 inches (74 cm) of ice for vehicles that can carry 26,000 kilograms (57,320 lbs) of gross vehicle weight, to transport diesel and dynamite required to operate the mines.
On warmer days, the engineers have found ways to trick nature by creating artificial ice using giant sprinklers to spray water high up in the air so that they cool and form thick layer of ice when they fall.
Paul Gruner, CEO of the Indigenous corporation Tlicho Investment Corp & Group of Companies said this year the warm winter at the start and if there is a warmer end of the season or an early spring, it could risk an early closure.
“So when you’re nibbling away on both sides of that, you start to create a very short season,” Gruner said.
The Winter Road is jointly operated by Burgundy Diamond Mines, Rio Tinto and De Beers of Anglo American group, which run the Ekati, Diavik and Gahcho Kue diamond mines respectively.
De Beers and Burgundy Diamonds said operations at their mines have not been affected by the mild winter. Rio Tinto declined comment.
The Winter Road costs C$25 million ($18.54 million) to operate for two months, which is shared by the three companies based on goods transported on the road and distance traveled.
However, the mines have a operational life of around 20 years and as they reach the end of life, they need to be shut down.
Rio Tinto has said it will close the Diavik mine in 2026 and De Beers plans to shut Snap Lake end of this year, while seeking to extend the life of Gahcho Kue.
Chicken and egg Canada’s remote Arctic region, home to around 86,000 people, is facing the complete closure of all the diamond mines by 2030 and is looking for ways to keep mining alive.
The lack of infrastructure is a challenge and the shortened seasonal use of the ice road could hurt investments needed to mine critical minerals.
“If you’re in the exploration phase … and looking at using the winter road as part of your core business model, the risks start to come into … your decision making whether or not to advance a project,” Tlicho Investment’s Gruner said.
Hoefer of NWT and Nunavut Chamber of Mines said the two Northern territories, which are as big as Europe, have the highest infrastructure deficits in Canada – one of the reasons for the very high costs of living and doing business in the North.
“It is a chicken-and-egg situation, the mining companies probably won’t come unless there is some infrastructure, it’s just too expensive,” said Heather Exner-Pirot, director of Energy, Natural Resources and Environment program at Macdonald-Laurier Institute.
It costs C$3 million a kilometer to build gravel roads, Pirot said.
Mining groups are pushing for a mega infrastructure project that connects NWT to Nunavut that runs through the diamond mines could help unlock the mineral riches in the region. At least 23 of the 31 critical minerals listed by the Canadian government is found in the NWT.
“When the project comes up, it would replace the roads that have served mining for 40 years, but until that happens, the ice roads are required,” Hoefer said.
A ring with a rare fancy-vivid-yellowish-orange diamond is set to lead the upcoming Sotheby’s jewelry sale in Hong Kong, which will take place during its luxury week.
The auction house has not disclosed the estimate for the cushion-shaped, 7.01-carat, VS2-clarity diamond it will offer at the April 6 Magnificent Jewels event.
Along with that stone, Sotheby’s will feature several other colored diamonds in its top 10, as well as jadeite pieces. Jewels from well-known design houses, including Harry Winston, Graff, Chopard, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, and Boucheron, will also take center stage.
Here are the rest of the top 10 jewels Sotheby’s will offer at the auction:
This unmounted oval brilliant-cut, 55.55-carat, D-flawless, type IIa diamond has a presale estimate of HKD 38 million to HKD 50 million ($4.9 million to $6.4 million).A ring with a heart-shaped, 10.33-carat, fancy-intense-orangey-pink, VVS1-clarity diamond is estimated to fetch HKD 25.3 million to HKD 40 million ($3.2 million to $5.1 million).Sotheby’s will sell this ring bearing a round-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut, 4.01-carat, fancy-intense-purplish-pink, internally flawless diamond for up to HKD 30 million ($3.8 million).This necklace, containing 18 oval jadeite cabochons with brilliant-cut diamonds, is estimated to bring in up to HKD 28 million ($3.6 million).A collection featuring a detachable pendant necklace, composed of seven oval jadeite cabochons as well as diamonds, in addition to a pair of earrings and a ring will be offered for HKD 18 million ($2.3 million) to HKD 28 million.A ring by Jacques Timey for Harry Winston contains a cushion-shaped, 16.65-carat Kashmir sapphire flanked by two triangular-shaped diamonds. It carries a presale estimate of HKD 17 million to HKD 20 million ($2.2 million to $2.6 million).This jadeite bangle is set to go under the hammer at the Hong Kong auction, where it has a price range of HKD 16.8 million to HKD 22 million ($2.1 million to $2.8 million).A ring with a cushion-shaped, 5.07-carat, pigeon’s blood Burmese ruby surrounded by epaulette- and marquise-shaped diamonds is due to bring in between HKD 12.8 million ($1.6 million) and HKD 18 million.Another jadeite collection, comprising a necklace set with 14 oval jadeite cabochons and brilliant-cut, pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds, together with a ring and a pair of earrings, has a price range of HKD 12 million ($1.5 million) to HKD 18 million.
