News – The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA)

Diamond Leader De Beers Will Be Sold If BHP Acquires Anglo American

BHP’s share-swap take over bid for arch-rival Anglo American to create a $185 billion mining giant will struggle to succeed, but if it does there is one arm of the target certain to be sold, the De Beers diamond business.

Despite its century-old reputation and claim to be the custodian of the diamond industry De Beers has become more trouble than it’s worth, under attack from two directions.
Demand for diamonds is being battered by global economic uncertainty while the problem of slowing sales is being supercharged by the increasing popularity of lab-grown gems which are indistinguishable from mined diamonds.

A third factor which could seal the fate of De Beers is that BHP quit the diamond industry a decade ago after struggling to mix mining, and its basic function of heavy-duty earthmoving, with the fine art of producing and marketing baubles for the rich and newlyweds.

It could get worse for the diamond mining business because prices for lab-grown gems are continuing to fall as a market split widens. High-value jewels remain of interest to a handful of wealthy people, while the lion’s share of the market shifts to lab-grown.

De Beers, which was a pioneer in the business of lab-grown gems via its Lightbox subsidiary, has consistently played down the threat to its traditional mined-diamond business but sustaining that argument became a little harder on Tuesday when it reported a big production fall in the March quarter.

The 23% drop in output caused Anglo American to lower its full year diamond production target from between 29 million and 32 million carats to between 26-and-29 million carats.

Management blamed the decline on the effect of a build-up of inventory of unsold stones with lab-grown gems cannibalising demand for mined stones.

Forbes Daily: Join over 1 million Forbes Daily subscribers and get our best stories, exclusive reporting and essential analysis of the day’s news in your inbox every weekday.It Could Get A Lot Worse
It could get a lot worse if a recent study of the diamond market by a specialist London jewelry firm is a guide.

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According to Hatton Jewels, which specialises in handling antique second-hand gems and does not sell lab-grown gems, some lab-grown diamonds are spectacular overpriced with retailers inflating their prices by as much as 1200%.

Rachel Smith, head valuer at Hatton said that in the current landscape, every business pays a similar wholesale price for lab-grown diamonds, regardless of disparities in their retail market value.

“The wholesale price of lab-grown diamonds can plummet to as low as 1% of their natural counterparts’ value,” Smith said in an emailed statement.

Smith cited three retail prices for a two-carat F VS1 (high quality) lab-grown diamond being offered for sale at $11,375, $2730 and $866. A gem of that size and quality costs between $500 and $759 to make.

“While some companies uphold integrity by selling lab-grown diamonds at fair market value, ensuring equitable competition, others exploit the situation for profit.

Diamond “growing” machines in India.
“Some retailers inflate prices by as much as 1200%, potentially driven by a desire to maintain the narrative that they are not different from natural diamonds, otherwise they may be considered too cheap and therefore undesirable, or to capitalize on trends at the expense of consumers.”

If Smith is right and lab-grown diamonds are currently being sold at inflated profit margins, the ease with which they are produced will ensure an increase in supply, resulting eventually in a price crash.

When that happens the value of the once-great De Beers business will fade, and the appeal to a mining company like BHP will disappear — if it succeeds in acquiring Anglo American.

Source: Forbes

De Beers’ diamond output drops after slow recovery triggers production cut

Diamond output for De Beers slumped 23 per cent in the first quarter, as production was cut in response to a slow recovery in demand amid a pullback in luxury spending and the proliferation of lab-grown equivalents.

De Beers was the only unit of Anglo American to adjust its full-year production forecast on Tuesday, reducing its guided range to 26mn to 29mn carats of output, from 29mn to 32mn, and lifting expected average costs to $90 per carat, from $80.

Anglo American said the diamond market was suffering from a price rout caused by excess piles of inventory, something that De Beers has previously acknowledged is partly down to lab-grown diamonds cannibalising demand for mined stones.

“Ongoing uncertainty around economic growth prospects has led to a continued cautious purchasing approach” by its customers, Anglo American said. “The recovery in rough diamond demand is expected to be gradual through the rest of the year,” it added.

De Beers said a nascent recovery had begun in the first quarter, buoyed by improved demand for diamond jewellery around Christmas and new year in the US.

Diamond producers including De Beers’ arch-rival, Russia’s Alrosa, tried to curb the flow of gemstones into the market in the second half of last year. The Indian government even put on a voluntary import moratorium on rough stones in the final quarter to protect its polishers and cutters.

Despite those continued efforts into this year, demand, prices and the market recovery remains sluggish, Anglo said, requiring further action to be taken to reduce supply.

Anglo American chief executive Duncan Wanblad has been under pressure to improve performance since a production downgrade in December sent shares tumbling, although it has been aided by higher commodity prices, especially for copper.

Wanblad has said that “nothing is off the table” when it comes to asset sales or other options to restructure units, of which De Beers and the platinum group metals division are the most troubled.

“We are progressing through our asset review to optimise value by simplifying and improving the overall quality of the portfolio,” he said in a statement in the first-quarter production update on Tuesday.

Shares in Anglo American dropped 1.7 per cent in early trading in London and remain about a third lower than they were at the start of 2023.

Besides diamonds, the London-based company managed to maintain its guidance across its other commodities such as copper, iron ore and steelmaking coal.

Copper output jumped 11 per cent to 198,100 tonnes, helped by record throughput at its Quellaveco mine in Peru and higher grades at its Chilean mines Collahuasi and El Soldado.

South Africa, where Anglo American has iron ore, steelmaking coal and platinum mines, has become an increasing drag on production because of crippling problems in the logistics and power sector. Rail constraints resulted in a 2 per cent drop in output at Kumba Iron Ore.

Source: ft.com

Lucapa sells three diamonds for $10.5m in first tender

*A 203 ct Type IIa diamond as part of Lucapa’s first Lulo tender of the year*

Lucapa Diamond Company has sold three exceptional diamonds recovered from the Lulo mine, in Angola, for $10.5-million at tender.

The tender was concluded on April 19 and was conducted by Sodiam, in Luanda.

The three Type IIa white diamonds, weighing 203 ct, 116 ct and 43 ct, made up Lucapa’s first tender of Lulo diamonds for this year.

The total parcel, weighing 361 ct, realised an average price of $29 000/ct.

Lucapa has a 40% interest in the Lulo alluvial mine, alongside Angola’s national diamond company Endiama and a private entity called Rosas & Petalas.

Source: miningweekly

Swiss Watch Exports Plunge Amid Halt in Asia Demand

Swiss watch exports recorded a steep decline in March as demand in China and Hong Kong dipped below that of four years ago, during the height of the pandemic.

Shipments of timepieces slid 16% to CHF 2 billion ($2.2 billion) for the month, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reported Thursday. The downturn followed a 3.8% fall in February, the first drop in more than two years, as appetite began to falter in Asia.

“Swiss watch exports recorded a sharp decline in March,” the federation noted. “China and Hong Kong accounted for a particularly high proportion of the trend. China suffered a decline…dropping to a level below that of March 2020, when the sector practically came to a halt in the middle of the month because of the Covid-19 pandemic. Hong Kong…saw a similar change.”

Supply to the US fell 7% to CHF 340.5 million ($374.5 million). In China, the federation’s second-largest market, shipments plunged 42% to CHF 150.2 million ($165.2 million), and in Hong Kong they plummeted 44% to CHF 148.1 million ($162.9 million). In Japan exports saw a 3.5% drop, while they slipped 3.6% in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). Decreases of 15% in Singapore, 13% in the UK and Germany, and 12% in France were closer to the global average, the federation explained.

Timepieces at each price point noted decreases. Watches that cost less than CHF 200 ($220) fell 19%, as did those priced between CHF 200 and CHF 500 ($550). Watches valued at CHF 500 to CHF 3,000 ($3,300) slid 38%, while those worth over CHF 3,000 decreased 10%.

For the first quarter of the year, exports went down 6% to CHF 6.08 billion ($6.69 billion).

Source: Rapaport

Petra’s Prices Boosted $8.2m Blue

Petra Diamonds sold fewer carats but achieved higher prices earlier this month at its fifth tender of FY 2024, boosted by the sale of an $8.2m blue diamond.

The UK-based miner achieved an average $136 per carat on sales of 362,000 carats for $49m.

Like-for-like figures for its fourth tender, in February, were $112 per carat on sales of 429,000 carats for $48m.

Sales for the year to date are, however, lagging behind FY 2023, at $285m, down 10 per cent down on $316m.

The 14.76ct exceptional color and clarity blue diamond recovered from Cullinan, South Africa, sold for $8.2m, although it was not classified as an “exceptional stone” (over $15m).

Total revenue for Q3 FY 2024 was $66m, down 27 per cent on the previous quarter, due to the lower production and the timing of receipts from the fifth tender.

“Production for the quarter is consistent with the preceding quarter and in-line with expectations.,” said CEO Richard Duffy.

Production guidance for FY 2024 is 2.75m to 2.85m carats.

Earlier this month Petra announced the sale of its loss-making Koffiefontein mine, in South Africa, to Dubai-based Stargems for a nominal sum.

Source: IDEX

US Retail Sales Slow Slightly in March

March US retail sales increased at a slower pace than the previous month’s as inflation eased and the job market improved.

Revenue grew 0.7% from the month before to $709.6 billion — adjusted for seasonal variation — compared to an increase of 0.9% in February, according to data the US Census Bureau released Monday.

“As inflation for goods levels off, March’s data demonstrates steady spending by value-focused consumers who continue to benefit from a strong labor market and real wage gains,” said National Retail Federation (NRF) CEO Matthew Shay. “In this highly competitive market, retailers are having to keep prices as low as possible to meet the demand of consumers looking to stretch their family budgets.”

Sales climbed 2.7% from a year earlier, on par with February’s year-on-year results, the NRF added.

March sales were up year on year in six of the nine retail categories the NRF monitors, compared to eight last month. Sales in the clothing and accessories segment — which includes jewelry — were flat compared to February, but advanced 2.1% versus the same period a year ago. Online sales saw the largest year-on-year gain, rising 15%, while electronics, furniture, and building and garden supply products fell.

Source: Rapaport

Sotheby’s Jewelry Watch Auction Sells Out in Under an Hour

All 24 items on offer at the first gender-free live auction of bejeweled and embellished vintage timepieces at Sotheby’s found buyers, with the entire group selling in less than an hour.

The top item at the sale, called Rough Diamonds, was a Patek Philippe Ref. 3290 bracelet watch, ring and necklace set, created in 1962 by Gilbert Albert, decorated with enamel and pearls. The set sparked a more than six-minute battle between seven bidders, finally selling for CHF 393,700 ($435,727), over seven times its high estimate, Sotheby’s said Friday.

In total, the April 11 auction garnered CHF 1.2 million ($1.3 million), nearly twice its upper presale price.

“Rough Diamonds was born from the desire to bring to market a concept watch sale that truly resonated with collectors,” said Josh Pullan, global head of Sotheby’s luxury division. “The results of tonight’s sale, with all 24 lots selling to such a diverse and enthusiastic group of buyers, has validated that vision. The fact that the Gilbert Albert-designed Patek Philippe — the most idiosyncratic and extravagant lot in the sale — has become the most valuable lot sold tonight proves that there is a definite appetite amongst buyers for nonconformist and boldly eccentric timepieces, presented in a differentiated context.”

Other items that performed well included two Audemars Piguet watches. The first, a Cobra Royal Khanjar from 1985, brought in CHF 165,100 ($182,724), while a car-shaped white gold, diamond and emerald-set wristwatch from 1995 fetched CHF 107,950 ($119,474). Both pieces smashed their high estimates. Meanwhile, a Patek Philippe bangle watch from 1976 more than doubled its upper price tag, going for CHF 63,500 ($70,279).

Source: Rapaport

Antwerp World Diamond Centre CEO resigns amid Russia diamond sanctions

Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) chief executive Ari Epstein resigned unexpectedly on Thursday, the AWDC’s board of directors said in a statement.

A spokesperson for AWDC, Belgium’s main diamond industry group, said on Friday that Epstein, who had been CEO for 13 years, did not wish to communicate about the reason for his sudden departure, but Belgian financial newspaper De Tijd reported that Russian diamond sanctions had been the cause of conflict between the diamond sector and the Belgian government.

AWDC did not say who would replace Epstein as CEO. Epstein did not immediately respond to a request for comment sent via LinkedIn.

Following an EU ban on Russian-origin diamonds that took effect on March 1, rough and polished diamonds have to enter the EU and G7 countries with documentary proof and declarations that the stones are not of Russian origin.

Antwerp’s diamond dealers have said they are facing long and costly delays as a consequence.

Source: mining.com

AGTA Bans Lab-Grown Diamonds, Gemstones at GemFair

The American Gem Trade Association announced that, starting at Tucson next year, exhibitors will not be allowed to sell lab-grown diamonds or colored gemstones at the AGTA GemFair.

National Jeweler received a news release on AGTA’s decision via email Wednesday morning. The release also was posted on the AGTA website, though it had been removed by Wednesday evening.

AGTA CEO John W. Ford Sr. said the news release was “pulled by error,” and would be reposted today.

According to the release, AGTA’s new rule bans the display of loose gemstones or jewelry “comprising non-natural gemstones, ones that are man-made, synthetic, or lab grown.”

AGTA said its dealers can still sell lab-grown gems if they are disclosed, but only natural gems can be made available for purchase at GemFair.

The association said it enacted the ban to “thwart potential confusion,” confusion it sees happening in the lab-grown diamond industry and fears will affect the colored gemstone industry, even though lab-grown colored stones have been around for more than a century.

When asked what led to the belief that confusion was occurring, or could occur, in the colored gemstone market, Ford said in an email to National Jeweler, “Look no further than the chaos created by synthetics in the diamond industry … Our action is also in response to considerable concerns voiced by AGTA membership in relation to the adverse effects that synthetics could also potentially cause in the colored gemstone industry.”

While the AGTA’s decision has made headlines, it does not seem poised to have a big impact on AGTA GemFair exhibitors, few of whom sell lab-grown gemstones anyway.

In his email, Ford said out of the 260 exhibitors of loose or set gemstones at the 2024 AGTA GemFair Tucson, only two list that they sell synthetic gemstones in the AGTA Source Directory.

“Since sending out over (260) 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson renewals, we’ve had an overwhelmingly positive response from the vast majority of our exhibitors, greatly outweighing any negative responses,” he said.

UK synthetic diamond firm told ads cannot describe diamonds as ‘real’

Ads for synthetic diamond jewellery have been banned after the UK company behind them, Skydiamond, did not make it clear they were not real.

Even though the strapline of the newspaper advert was the “world’s first and only diamond made entirely from the sky” and a social media ad said “love is… a diamond gift made from the sky”, there were complaints from the National Diamond Association.

The advertising regulator upheld the complaints and concluded that the ads were misleading and said they could not appear again in the same form, including on the company’s website without, better explanation.

Skydiamond, the trading name for The Sky Mining Company Ltd, was told by the Advertising Standards Authority not to use the terms “diamonds”, “diamonds made entirely from the sky” and “Skydiamond”, and not to describe its synthetic products “without a clear and prominent qualifier”.

The firm was told by the ASA that it must use terms such as ‘synthetic’, ‘laboratory-grown’ or ‘laboratory-created’, “or another way of clearly and prominently conveying the same meaning to consumers” and were not to use the claim “real diamonds” to describe synthetic diamonds.

Sky Mining said both the ads and extensive information and graphics on its website set out that their diamonds were manufactured in a laboratory, with detailed information on the production process on its website.

The company said the very brand was built on the premise that their diamonds did not come from the earth and do not have the negative environmental impacts associated with diamond mining, with all components required sourced from the sky: atmospheric carbon dioxide (as a source of carbon), rainwater (as a source of hydrogen) and renewable energy from solar and wind power.

As explained on the company’s website, Skydiamonds are made from carbon dioxide and hydrogen extracted and produced using proven industrial processes and combined to form methane in a biological process, with methane fed into chemical vapour deposition machines in which diamonds developed at a high temperature over 14 days.

It says for every carat of Skydiamond produced, greenhouse gas emissions are reduced by 99.79% compared to mined diamonds, and that compared to growing diamonds in a laboratory, mined diamonds produce 4,383 times more waste, use 2.14 times the energy and 6.8 times as much water.

The ASA acknowledged that further information on the Sky Mining manufacturing process appeared on About Us pages of the website among other pages.

“However, in the absence of a clearly worded and prominent qualification such as ‘synthetic’, ‘laboratory-created’ or ‘laboratory-grown’, or another way of clearly and prominently communicating the same meaning, we considered it was still ambiguous as to whether the diamonds were synthetic or not,” the regulator said.

Source: proactiveinvestors