The Glowing Rose, a 10.08-carat vivid pink diamond that was expected to sell for around $20m was pulled from Sotheby’s High Jewelry Sale in Geneva last week.
It was withdrawn prior to the sale on 12 November. A notice on the Sotheby’s website simply says: “This lot is no longer available.”
The cushion-modified brilliant VVS2 stone (pictured), set in a platinum band featuring baguette and brilliant cut white diamonds, would have been only the third vivid pink cushion-cut diamond over 10 carats to come to auction in the last 10 years.
It was cut from a 21-carat Type IIa rough stone recovered in 2023, from a mine in Angola and was due to appear at auction for the first time.
Two days earlier (10 November) another pink diamond pulled from another sale, The old-cut Golconda 6.95-carat fancy vivid purplish pink diamond was due to lead the sale was withdrawn by Phillips from its Geneva Jewels Auction: V event, in agreement with the consignor.
The Sotheby’s High Jewelry Sale generated around $37m, with 94 per cent of lots sold and 98 per cent of the sold lots exceeding their estimates.
Top lot was a 4.50-carat internally flawless oval mixed-cut fancy vivid blue diamond that achieved more than $5.9m.
Each November, Geneva takes centre stage in the world of fine jewellery, and Sotheby’s 2025 High Jewellery and Royal & Noble Jewels sales reaffirm why the city remains its beating heart. This year’s auctions bring together a breathtaking display of natural diamonds, historical heirlooms, and masterful craftsmanship that celebrate centuries of artistry and provenance.
At the forefront of the Sotheby’s High Jewellery Sale is The Glowing Rose, an extraordinary 10.08-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond estimated at around USD 20 million. Its rare, “pure pink” hue—free from secondary tones—places it among the most valuable gemstones in existence. Comparable to celebrated stones such as the Williamson Pink Star and Pink Legacy, this exceptional diamond embodies the geological miracle of atomic distortion, which gives natural pink diamonds their ethereal glow. Stones of this size and purity are exceedingly rare, making The Glowing Rose the undeniable star of the season.
Colour remains the hallmark of this year’s Geneva sale. A pair of Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond earrings, weighing 38.66 and 38.88 carats, are expected to achieve between CHF 2,000,000 and CHF 3,800,000. Their radiant colour intensity and impressive carat weight represent the highest standards of fancy diamond grading. Equally captivating is a 4.50-carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, internally flawless and estimated at CHF 4,400,000 to CHF 5,800,000. The blue hue, caused by trace boron, adds to its rarity and appeal, offering collectors the coveted trifecta of exceptional colour, clarity, and size.
Among the coloured gemstones, a 7.69-carat “Royal Blue” Kashmir sapphire set in a ring-pendant combination by Van Cleef & Arpels is a standout. Revered for their velvety “sleepy” lustre, Kashmir sapphires are among the most desirable in the world, and this piece exemplifies the pinnacle of gemological beauty. Further artistry is showcased through a pair of sapphire, tsavorite garnet, and diamond earclips by JAR—vividly imaginative and estimated at CHF 300,000 to CHF 500,000—reflecting the contemporary genius of Joel Arthur Rosenthal.
The sale also includes signature creations by Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Graff, and De Grisogono. Highlights include a 10.04-carat marquise-shaped D-colour diamond ring by Graff (VVS2 clarity, estimated CHF 320,000–560,000) and a De Grisogono ruby and diamond bombé ring featuring two step-cut diamonds (estimated CHF 55,000–75,000).
In tribute to a century of Art Deco design, Sotheby’s presents an array of geometric masterpieces from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, embodying the symmetry and elegance that shaped modern jewellery aesthetics. Two private collections will also headline the event: one dedicated exclusively to Van Cleef & Arpels, and another—Aria of Jewels: The Collection of Antje-Katrin Kühnemann—featuring exceptional Cartier and De Grisogono pieces from the late philanthropist’s private trove.
The Royal & Noble Jewels: A Journey Through History
Complementing the High Jewellery Sale, Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels auction unveils some of the most historically significant diamonds and heirlooms ever offered. Among them is a diamond brooch once owned by Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, lost during his flight after Waterloo and later recovered by the Prussian Royal family. After more than two centuries in private hands, it now re-emerges for the first time at auction.
Also featured is a light pink diamond ring with royal lineage, once belonging to Empress Catherine I of Russia and later to Princess Neslishah Sultan, estimated between CHF 240,000 and CHF 400,000. A natural pearl and diamond jewel formerly owned by Cunegonde of Saxony (cousin of Louis XVI) carries an estimate of CHF 340,000 to CHF 500,000, while a diamond tiara with a wild roses motif from the Duchess of Portland (1774–1844) is expected to fetch CHF 100,000 to CHF 170,000.
Adding to the grandeur is a Cartier emerald and diamond necklace featuring an 11.78-carat Colombian emerald, commissioned in 1932, exemplifying Art Deco refinement and royal provenance.
Celebrating Provenance, Craftsmanship, and Natural Rarity
From Napoleon’s lost brooch to The Glowing Rose, Sotheby’s Geneva continues to highlight how exceptional gems transcend beauty—they embody heritage, artistry, and history. These November 2025 auctions remind the world that in fine jewellery, rarity, provenance, and craftsmanship remain the ultimate symbols of enduring value.
About DCLA The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) is the official CIBJO-accredited laboratory for Australia, recognised for its expertise in diamond grading and certification. DCLA continues to support transparency and integrity within the global diamond trade, celebrating events such as Sotheby’s Geneva that showcase the brilliance and authenticity of natural diamonds.
Sotheby’s is set to showcase one of the world’s rarest diamonds during its upcoming series of luxury auctions and exhibitions in Abu Dhabi, held from 2 to 5 December at The St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort. The events form part of Abu Dhabi Collectors’ Week, which will feature masterclasses, panel discussions, and curated exhibitions highlighting fine jewellery, timepieces, collector cars, luxury real estate, and other exceptional assets.
The highlight of the auction is “The Desert Rose”, a 31.86-carat fancy vivid orangy-pink diamond, the largest of its kind ever graded. This extraordinary pear-shaped gem—first unveiled in Sotheby’s “Beyond: The World’s Rarest Diamonds” exhibition earlier this year—makes its auction debut with an estimated value of USD $5–$7 million.
The timing of the event coincides with one of Abu Dhabi’s busiest weeks, which includes the Formula 1 Grand Prix, the Milken Institute Middle East and Africa Summit 2025, Abu Dhabi Finance Week, and Bitcoin MENA. Together, these prestigious gatherings are expected to attract a global audience of collectors, investors, and cultural leaders.
Following Sotheby’s successful inaugural sale in Saudi Arabia earlier this year, the Abu Dhabi auctions further underscore the Middle East’s growing influence in the global luxury and cultural landscape. Saadiyat Island, home to institutions such as the Louvre Abu Dhabi, the forthcoming Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, and the Zayed National Museum, continues to establish itself as a world-class destination for art and high-value collectibles.
The Desert Rose diamond’s debut marks a milestone in coloured diamond history—its rarity, hue, and size exemplify the exceptional standards that define the world’s most coveted gems.
A spectacular 6.95-carat fancy vivid purplish pink Golconda diamond will lead The Geneva Jewels Auction: V, as Phillips Geneva prepares to offer an extraordinary collection of jewels once owned by the legendary Vanderbilt family, once America’s richest dynasty.
Among the highlights is a Tiffany & Co. 42.68-carat sugarloaf Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch, estimated at US$1 million to US$1.5 million, alongside a step-cut Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring weighing 18.09 carats (estimate US$2.2 million to US$2.8 million). The sale also features a stunning pair of brilliant-cut diamond ear studs, weighing 8.00 and 8.28 carats, both graded D colour, VVS1 clarity, with an estimate of US$600,000 to US$850,000.
The Vanderbilt name is synonymous with immense wealth and American industrial power. The family’s fortune began with Cornelius Vanderbilt, who, at age 16, borrowed $100 from his mother to start a ferry service in 1810. He later built a shipping and railroad empire that made him the richest man in the United States, worth about $100 million at his death in 1877 — equivalent to at least $185 billion today.
His son, William Henry Vanderbilt, further doubled that fortune to over $200 million (around $370 billion in today’s terms). However, the family’s wealth gradually dispersed over subsequent generations, with the combined net worth of the Vanderbilt descendants now estimated at around $200 million.
The Geneva Jewels Auction: V, featuring The Vanderbilt Family Jewels, will take place on 10 November at Phillips Geneva, marking a rare opportunity for collectors to acquire pieces linked to one of America’s most storied families.
Fancy colour diamonds saw slower growth in the last three months, with an increase of just 0.5 per cent in the FCRF Index, which tracks prices across all colours, sizes and intensities.
That compares with a 1.3 per cent rise during the first quarter of 2023, as reported by the New York-based Fancy Colour Research Foundation, with the biggest increases among yellows.
During Q2, yellows diamonds again drove the increase, with a rise of 6.5 per cent across all categories. Pinks were up 0.2 per cent and blues rose by 0.6 per cent.
The FCRF noted that fancy colour diamonds had again out-performed white diamonds, which saw prices fall 3.5 per cent during the quarter.
Board member Eden Rachminov said: “The first six months of 2023 were intriguing. We experienced notable spikes in certain sub-categories within the yellow category, particularly in the intense and vivid grades with a high inner-grade.
“Meanwhile, the blue and pink categories remained stable. If the world economy continues to maintain its positive momentum, we can anticipate a robust price behavior after the summer.”
The FCRF tracks pricing data for fancy colour diamonds in Hong Kong, New York, Geneva and Tel Aviv.
A pair of pear-shaped fancy pink pendant diamond earrings, weighing 11.17 carats and 10.85 carats, are to be sold at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.
The estimate is $5.48m to $7.01m. Both diamonds are GIA-certified as Fancy Pink, Natural Color, VVS1 Clarity.
The pink diamonds are set in platinum and yellow gold suspended from a pear, marquise-shaped and brilliant-cut diamond surmount weighing a total of approximately 6.5-7.5cts, mostly F-H color, average VS-SI clarity.
The lead tomorrow’s Magnificent Jewels I. The sale also includes a Harry Winston diamond fringe necklace with nine pear-shaped diamonds weighing 14.93 to 2.04 carats (estimate $4.46m to $6.37m) and a 5.49-carat fancy intense blue diamond ring (estimate $4.84m to $6.37m).
Only one in 10,000 diamonds found are coloured, according to the Gemological Institute of America.
Average prices for fancy coloured diamonds of any size climbed by 3.9% in 2022, led by yellows and pinks, the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF), a non-profit that promotes transparency and fair trade in the market, said on Wednesday.
The industry body said prices for all yellow diamonds climbed by 4.6% from the previous year, followed by a 3.9% rise in pinks and 1.8% in blues.
The improved prices reached by these diamonds, the FCRF said, contrast with the annual decline in white diamonds prices.
“2022 was a very good year for yellow fancy colour diamonds in all sizes and saturations. It seems like yellow diamonds with high visual grades and in certain shapes increased by more than what is reflected in the Index,” FCRF data supplier, Israel Papushado, said in a statement.
Source: FCRF.
“Pink fancy colour diamonds performed with no significant change in comparison to previous years; however, blue diamonds did not perform as expected, probably due to limitations in the Chinese market,” he noted.
The prices reported by the FCRF are based on its own Fancy Colour Diamond Index, which is built on tracked data for yellow, pink, and blue fancy colour diamonds’ performance in major global trading centres such as Hong Kong, New York, Geneva and Tel Aviv.
Nature bestows fancy colours on about one in every 10,000 rough diamonds of gem quality that are mined around the world.
The precious stones that can be blue, pink or green form a special asset class, relying on a consumer preference for exotic and unusual items. This also means they are less affected by other factors driving supply and demand in the main diamond market.
An 11.15 carat pink diamond has been sold for $49.9m in Hong Kong, setting a world record for the highest price per carat for a diamond sold at auction.
Auctioned on Friday by Sotheby’s Hong Kong, the Williamson Pink Star diamond was originally estimated at $21m.
The gem draws its name from two legendary pink diamonds.
The first is the 23.60 carat Williamson diamond which was presented to the late British Queen Elizabeth II as a wedding gift in 1947.
The second is the 59.60 carat Pink Star diamond that sold for a record $71.2m at auction in 2017.
The Williamson Pink Star is the second largest pink diamond to appear at auction.
Pink diamonds are among the rarest and most valuable of the coloured diamonds.
The second largest internally flawless fancy vivid pink diamond to ever appear at auction was unveiled Wednesday in London by Sotheby’s. The 11.15-carat Williamson Pink Star will be sold in a single-lot auction in Hong Kong on October 5. Its estimate is $21 million.
The auction house says it has the potential to set a new per carat price record for a fancy vivid pink diamond.
“We do have the confidence that it will find a great collector and have the interest of multiple parties,” Wenhao Yu, chairman of Jewellery and Watches at Sotheby’s Asia, told Forbes on Tuesday. “It has the potential to reach a very strong price.”
He adds, “This diamond truly checks all the boxes. It has the best qualities you can have in a pink diamond.”
The current price per carat auction record for a fancy vivid pink diamond is $2,656,909 for the 18.96-carat Winston Pink Legacy, sold in 2018 by Christie’s Geneva. The largest internally flawless, fancy vivid pink diamond offered at auction is the 59.60-carat CTF Pink Star. It was sold by Sotheby’s Hong Kong in 2017 for $71.2 million, a world record for any gem or jewel sold at auction.
Yu compares the Williamson Pink Star to an exceptional work of art.
“We timed this lot to be offered between Sotheby’s modern and contemporary art auctions. That’s because instead of offering just another important diamond, we view this diamond as a work of art from mother earth and a wonder of nature,” Yu says. “It’s comparable to a Monet or a Picasso and is even more rare.”
The Williamson Pink Star is the second largest internally flawless fancy vivid pink diamond
The Williamson mine is one of the oldest operating diamond mines in the world, famous for producing what is described as “bubblegum” pink diamonds, according to the auction house. One of the best-known diamonds from the mine is the 23.6-carat Williamson Pink Diamond fashioned into a brooch by Cartier and owned by Queen Elizabeth II.
“We wanted to relate the important provenance of the Williamson mine when naming the diamond,” Yu says. “The unique saturated pink color is one of the important qualities of diamonds from this mine. It is an honor for us that after so many decades another important pink diamond comes from the Williamson mine and we can offer it at auction.”
The cushion-shaped diamond was crafted from a 32.32-carat rough diamond by Diacore, a diamond manufacturer that specializes in crafting rare, exceptional fancy-colored diamonds. The company purchased the gem in late 2021 for $13.8 million. Yu says crafting the diamond is just as important as discovering it, and Diacore is one of the few companies in the world capable of cutting and polishing such an important gem.
The Williamson Pink Star is mounted in an 18k gold ring flanked by trapeze
“Not every rough can yield a diamond of this high quality so we should also give credit to Diacore,” he says. “They really made cutting and polishing into an art. They are very skilled and experienced with the best technology and a lot of courage. It’s rare to have a vivid pink color. It’s rarer when it’s over 10 carats and even more rare if it’s internally flawless. It’s luck to find this kind of diamond that was formed underground for millions of years, and it takes a great amount of art and creativity to fashion it into a gorgeous stone with so many exceptional qualities.”
Pink diamonds are among the rarest colors to occur naturally in diamonds. Of all the diamonds submitted to the Gemological Institute of America (which analyzes and grades diamonds), fewer than 3% are classified as colored diamonds, and fewer than 5% of those are considered predominantly pink.
The Argyle Mine in Australia, before it was retired in 2020 after exhausting its supply of gem-quality diamonds, produced more than 90% of the world’s pink diamonds. The absence of pink diamonds from this mine makes important pink diamonds like the one being offered even more rare, Yu says.
“Pink diamonds are still growing in demand in the market, and this now makes the Williamson Pink Star even more sought after,” he says.
The diamond is being presented in an 18k gold ring flanked by trapeze-cut diamonds and embellished with brilliant-cut diamonds.
London is the first stop where the diamond will be viewed by the public. It will then travel to Dubai, Singapore and Taipei before the final viewing and sale in Hong Kong.
Lucapa Diamond Company has recovered one of the largest pink diamonds in history: a 170-carat stone from the Lulo mine in Angola.
The type IIa rough, named the Lulo Rose, is “believed to be the largest pink diamond recovered in the last 300 years,” Lucapa said Wednesday. It is also the fifth-largest diamond from Lulo, and the deposit’s 27th over 100 carats since commercial production began in 2015. Lucapa plans to sell the diamond through an international tender conducted by Angolan state diamond-marketing company Sodiam, it noted.
“The record-breaking Lulo diamond field has again delivered a precious and large gemstone, this time an extremely rare and beautiful pink diamond,” said José Manuel Ganga Júnior, chairman of the board of state-owned Endiama, one of Lucapa’s partners in the deposit. “It is a significant day for the Angolan diamond industry.”
In addition to the pink, Lulo is also the source of Angola’s largest diamond, a 404-carat rough named the 4th February Stone.
Lucapa has begun bulk sampling at “priority kimberlites” as it searches for the primary source of Lulo’s diamonds, managing director Stephen Wetherall added.
