The diamond world is facing fresh turbulence following the U.S. government’s decision to impose tariffs on imported diamonds — a move that De Beers CEO Al Cook says does nothing to support American jobs or the economy.
In an exclusive interview with the Financial Times, Cook made it clear: “There are no U.S. diamond mining jobs to protect.” He stressed that these tariffs don’t create employment or benefit the domestic industry — instead, they act as a consumption tax that ultimately punishes the American public.
A Tax on Love, Not a Boost to Industry
The U.S. remains the largest market for diamond jewellery, accounting for about half of global demand, yet it has no significant commercial diamond mining of its own. Every diamond on American soil has been imported — meaning the 10% blanket tariff on all imports, introduced by President Donald Trump, hits the diamond trade especially hard.
Unlike many raw materials that were exempt from the tariffs, diamonds were left out, intensifying the impact on a sector already grappling with declining demand and competition from synthetic alternatives.
According to Cook, the result has been immediate: the trade in natural diamonds briefly ground to a halt. The World Diamond Council echoed his warning, stating that $117 billion in annual revenue and over 200,000 U.S. jewellery jobs could be at risk if diamonds aren’t removed from the tariff list.
“Tariffs on diamonds are not protecting American industry,” Cook emphasised. “They’re just increasing the cost of engagement rings, anniversary gifts, and other sentimental purchases.”
Global Trade Routes Disrupted
What makes diamonds unique is their complex, high-value supply chain. They’re small, easy to transport, and often pass through multiple countries — from mines in Botswana and Angola, to polishing hubs in India, and finally into U.S. jewellery stores. Tariffs disrupt that finely tuned system.
This comes at a particularly sensitive moment for De Beers, as parent company Anglo American prepares for a sale or initial public offering (IPO) of the diamond giant. Despite industry challenges, De Beers is pushing ahead with IPO plans that could launch by early next year.
But the company is feeling the pain too: first-quarter revenue dropped 44% year-on-year to $520 million, reflecting both lower prices and reduced demand. Anglo American has also written down De Beers’ value by $4.5 billion over the past two years.
Hope on the Horizon?
Still, Cook remains optimistic. He believes that over time, U.S. tariffs on diamonds will be lifted. The American government has already granted tariff exemptions for items like smartphones and car components, and Cook is confident natural resources like diamonds will follow suit.
Adding to that optimism are positive developments in U.S.–India trade talks. India polishes over 90% of the world’s diamonds, making it a key link in the supply chain. A favourable trade agreement between Washington and New Delhi could ease the pressure and offer the diamond sector a much-needed reprieve.
In the end, the message from De Beers is clear: Tariffs on diamonds don’t help American workers or industry — they just make life more expensive for consumers. As negotiations progress and the global market adjusts, the diamond world will be watching closely to see whether policymakers come to the same conclusion.