India’s gross monthly exports of polished diamonds jumped 17.8 per cent in July, as manufacturers rushed to get their goods into the US before the 50 per cent tariffs took effect.
It was the first year-on-year increase since last October, when the markets showed some small signs of a possible recovery. Since then exports have declined every month.
Foreign sales were $1.07bn, according to the latest data from the Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), following on from India suffered a 23 per cent dip in June, with total exports of $779m.
US tariffs on Indian exports were first announced in April, but didn’t take effect until August. The initial 25 per cent tariff was imposed on 7 August, prompting a rush to export, and an additional 25 per cent tariff – what President Donald Trump describes as a punishment for India buying Russian oil – comes in on 27 August. This could lead to another monthly increase in August, as manufacturers try to beat the next tariff deadline.
Meanwhile, imports of rough diamonds for April to July grew slightly, up 1.5 per cent to $4.37bn.
Overall gross exports of gems and jewelry also rose on tariff worries, up 17 per cent to $2.18bn.
Kirit Bhansali, GJEPC chairman, said: “The July export figures, a successful IIJS Premiere with strong order bookings, and the revival of the Hong Kong market are encouraging signs for our industry, especially amid global challenges such as the impact of US tariffs.”
Lucapa Diamond Company, the Perth-based miner behind the Lulo alluvial mine in Angola and the Merlin project in Australia, has secured a potential lifeline through a planned Deed of Company Arrangement (DOCA) that promises full repayment to creditors and a partial return to shareholders.
Administrators Richard Tucker and Paul Pracilio of KordaMentha were appointed in May after Lucapa faced plummeting diamond markets and operational strains. They recently reached a binding term sheet with Dubai-based Gaston International, part of the broader Jemora Group, setting the stage for a restructuring that would transfer Lucapa’s shares to the proponent, subject to creditor and court approvals.
Under the proposed DOCA, creditors stand to receive 100c on the dollar, while shareholders may receive up to A$0.018 a share. That potential payout exceeds Lucapa’s last traded share price of around A$0.014 a share.
The company has struggled amid a downturn in diamond prices.
Gaston International invests heavily in mining globally, with a particular affinity for critical minerals and gemstones. Its interest in Lucapa could give the company access to high-value assets while securing its Angolan and Australian operations.
KordaMentha’s dual-track recapitalisation and sale process hinges on creditor approval at meetings scheduled for August 20, court clearance under a key provision of the Australian Corporations Act, and any regulatory consents. If successful, the DOCA would preserve Lucapa’s operations and deliver better outcomes than liquidation, the administrators stated.
In Surat, India’s famed “Diamond City”, where 14 out of every 15 natural diamonds are cut and polished, a deepening crisis is unfolding.
For Kalpesh Patel, a 35-year-old owner of a small diamond cutting and polishing unit, this year’s Diwali could mark more than just a festival of lights — it may signal the lights going out on his eight-year-old business. Patel employs 40 workers transforming rough stones into polished gems destined primarily for the United States. But with the recent announcement by US President Donald Trump of a 50% tariff on imports from India — taking the total duty on cut and polished diamonds to 52.1% — the industry’s already fragile state may tip into collapse.
The US is India’s largest export market for diamonds, accounting for over one-third of total shipments. In the 2024–25 financial year, India exported $4.8 billion worth of cut and polished diamonds to the US, out of a total $13.2 billion worldwide. For many small and medium-sized manufacturers in Surat, Ahmedabad, and Rajkot — employing more than two million people — this trade lifeline is now under severe threat.
An Industry Already Under Pressure
The tariffs arrive on top of multiple recent challenges. The COVID-19 pandemic slowed global luxury demand, the Russia-Ukraine conflict restricted access to rough diamonds, and the G7 ban on Russian stones further strained supply chains. Salaries for many diamond workers in Gujarat have already been halved in recent years, with some forced into poverty-level incomes. Tragically, industry unions report dozens of suicides linked to the ongoing downturn.
Lab-grown diamonds have added to the pressure, offering consumers a lower-priced alternative — often just 10% of the cost of natural diamonds — and proving difficult to distinguish without professional laboratory testing, such as that provided by DCLA. This shift in consumer preference is eating into the market for natural stones, further squeezing margins for cutters and polishers.
Declining Trade Figures
According to the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), India imported $10.8 billion worth of rough diamonds in 2024–25, a 24% drop from the previous year. Exports of cut and polished natural diamonds fell nearly 17% year-on-year.
Industry leaders warn that if the new US tariffs remain in place, as many as 200,000 workers could lose their jobs in Gujarat alone.
Ripple Effects Beyond India
The impact will not be confined to India. US jewellers — around 70,000 businesses — will also feel the pressure as higher prices could dampen consumer demand. This could disrupt supply chains, delay deliveries, and push customers towards alternative products.
Finding a Way Forward
Some in the industry see an opportunity to strengthen domestic demand and diversify exports towards Latin America, the Middle East, and other emerging markets. India’s domestic gems and jewellery market is projected to grow from $85 billion to $130 billion within two years, offering a potential buffer.
For now, though, the threat is real and urgent. Without relief on tariffs, support for natural diamond certification, and a coordinated strategy to protect jobs, the world’s biggest cutting and polishing centre risks losing its global dominance — and with it, a key part of the natural diamond supply chain.
As Patel puts it, “Without help, the business will lose its shine forever.”
In the diamond trade, we often speak of a laser inscription as if it is an unbreakable bond between a diamond and its grading certificate. However, anyone with real-world experience whether on the manufacturing floor or in the secondary market knows the truth: inscriptions can be removed, altered, or forged.
Polish the girdle and the inscription disappears. Re-cut the stone and it’s gone entirely. Worse still, an inscription can be duplicated onto a different diamond to mimic an existing report number. This is not speculation; it has happened, and more often than many in the trade care to admit.
Another serious vulnerability occurs after grading. Once a diamond is set into jewellery, nothing prevents a switch from taking place during setting, repair, or even in transit. This risk is not confined to smaller stones high-value diamonds have been switched in exactly this way.
Verification presents its own challenges. Even if the diamond is the original stone graded by the laboratory, the inscription is frequently obscured by the jewellery setting. Accessing it often requires removing the stone a delicate procedure that carries risk to both the stone and the setting. Most grading laboratories, including DCLA, will not remove diamonds from their mountings, and many jewellers are reluctant to attempt it due to the potential for irreversible damage.
Digital records, blockchain entries, and grading reports track the details, but they do not track the actual physical stone. If the diamond is switched but the paperwork remains unchanged, the system still appears to validate it as authentic. This is precisely how sophisticated fraud can go undetected.
Until the industry bridges the gap between the physical diamond and its digital record, laser inscriptions will remain a weak link in the chain of security.
At DCLA, we believe the next step in true physical traceability lies in combining advanced identification technology with secure, tamper-proof verification processes ensuring that a diamond’s identity is as enduring as the stone itself.
South Africa is to sign up to the milestone Luanda Accord, which is funding a global campaign to promote natural diamonds.
It joined the governments of Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Sierra Leone and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, in June in pledging to contribute 1 per cent of the value of their rough sales annually.
But the move was only approved South Africa’s cabinet last week. Minister in the Presidency Khumbudzo Ntshavheni and confirmed the decision on 7 August, committing 1 per cent of the annual revenues generated from rough diamond sales to a global marketing fund led by the Natural Diamond Council (NDC).
South Africa, the world’s sixth biggest diamond producing nation by value, saw sales down by 21 per cent last year amid the global slowdown.
The country’s mining minister mining minister Gwede Mantashe was listed as a signatory to the Luanda Accord in an official communique after the agreement.
But a conflicting Reuters report said South Africa did not actually sign at the time and has only done so now.
The Luanda Accord is seen as a potential turning point for the sector, aiming to rebuild consumer trust and interest in natural diamonds over lab growns, by emphasizing their origin, authenticity, and community impact.
It will highlight the positive economic and social contributions of the natural diamond industry to producing nations and their communities.
Governments of the African diamond producing nations have been joined by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), African Diamond Producers Association, India’s Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC).
Petra Diamonds has announced plans for a major refinancing program – together with a 33 per cent slide in revenue for FY2025.
The UK-based miner, which has recently sold off two of its four diamond mines, is facing substantial financial and operational challenges.
It is proposing an extension of senior secured bank debt and notes due early next year to 2029 and 2030 respectively, together with a $25m rights issue.
The moves are designed to preserve cash, extend debt repayment timelines, and ensure Petra can continue investing in its two remaining core mines – Cullinan and Finsch, both in South Africa.
Petra’s latest sales results, published on the same day (8 August) as its refinancing package, show some positive momentum in the market with like-for-like rough diamond prices from its latest tender, but revenue for Q4 was down 49 per cent year-on-year to $50m.
Revenue for FY2025 was $206m, down 33 per cent year-on-year from $309m and net debt increased to $264m.
“We would once again like to acknowledge the resilience shown by our employees in navigating a very difficult period for the company and the diamond sector as whole,” the company said in its Q4 and FY 2025 Operating Update.
Meanwhile, in its refinancing proposal Petra said: “Petra has, over the past 18 months, been focused on an internal restructuring that has resulted in a simpler and more streamlined business and operating model.
“This has included the sale of the Koffiefontein and Williamson mines, multiple labour restructuring initiatives and an optimisation and smoothing of the group’s capital development profiles.”
Indian jewelry retailer Tanishq is introducing in-store diamond evaluation some of its 500-plus outlets, as part of an ongoing partnership with de Beers.
Customers will be able to see proof that the diamond they’re buying is natural rather than lab grown, thanks to the De Beers SynthDetect machine, which works with loose and mounted stones.
They can also have diamonds tested with Lightscope, which measures light performance, and with other equipment for performance, inclusions, and laser markings.
Tanishq, part of the Titan group, says the launch of its Diamonds Expertise Centres is designed to give customers greater peace of mind by presenting complex gemological data as simple, visual insights. It says the centers are a “first of a kind initiative”.
The first three are in Bengaluru, but the company plans to expand them to 200 stores this year and eventually to all its outlets.
Ajoy Chawla, CEO at Tanishq, said: “Our aim is to set a new standard in natural diamond retail — one that goes beyond traditional display and transforms the buying journey into a transparent, educational, and truly immersive experience.”
Last August Tanishq and De Beers jointly announced that they’d be working together to promote natural diamonds in India, now the world’s second biggest diamond market.
The partnership leverages Tanishq’s retail presence and De Beers’ expertise and proprietary diamond verification technology.
US President Donald Trump today (6 August) doubled the tariff on all imports from India to 50 per cent, as a punishment for its oil purchases from Russia.
India’s diamond industry, already reeling from confirmation last week of a 25 per cent reciprocal tariff, is in shock that their goods will be subject to a second 25 per cent surcharge.
“I find that the Government of India is currently directly or indirectly importing Russian Federation oil,” Trump said in an executive order.
“Accordingly, and as consistent with applicable law, articles of India imported into the customs territory of the United States shall be subject to an additional ad valorem rate of duty of 25 per cent.”
The first 25 per cent tariff comes into force tomorrow (Thursday 7 August) and the new, punitive tariff is applicable three weeks from now, on 27 August.
The US is the single largest destination for Indian diamonds and gems, accounting for nearly $10bn or about 30 per cent of India’s annual gems and jewelry exports.
Industry leaders were already warning of the dire consequences of a 25 per cent tariff. Now they are facing an unprecedented body blow with the introduction of a 50 per cent double-tariff.
India’s Ministry of External Affairs said in a statement today that the tariffs were “unfair, unjustified and unreasonable”.
It defended its Russian oil purchases, saying they were “based on market factors and done with the overall objective of ensuring the energy security of 1.4 billion people of India”.
The US imposition of an extra tariff was, it said, “extremely unfortunate”.
Greenlab, recognized as India’s largest lab-grown diamond producer, is set for a huge increase in capacity, after buying more than 1,100 new growing machines.
The company already has 1,600 machines, producing 2.9m carats of rough diamonds a year.
It has reportedly bought 105 high-tech growers from the Israeli firm Isrough and 1,000 more from India-based Bhanderi Lab Grown.
It said it chose Isrough’s machines for their ability to produce top-quality diamonds: D and E colors, with much of their output in the VVS clarity range.
Greenlab sells its polished diamonds through its US subsidiary, Labon, and has a distribution partnership with Florida-based Green Rocks.
India is the world’s second-largest lab-grown diamond producer with a 15 per cent market share, but trails a long way behind China, which produces about half of the world’s lab-grown diamonds.
The Kao Legend Collection represents an extraordinary achievement in diamond cutting and curation. Cut from a single 108.39-carat pink diamond crystal unearthed at the renowned Kao Mine in Lesotho, this suite features seven magnificent pink diamonds each documented in detail by the GIA Monograph.
At the heart of the collection lies the Kao Legend, a 20.49-carat diamond graded Fancy Intense Purplish Pink by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). The accompanying diamonds in the collection range in colour from Fancy Intense Purplish Pink to Faint Pink, showcasing a delicate and rare spectrum of pink hues.
What sets this collection apart is not only its shared origin and harmonious beauty but also the diamonds’ classification. All seven are Type IIa diamonds known for their exceptional chemical purity and rarity, comprising less than 2% of all natural diamonds. Type IIa pink diamonds are especially coveted for their remarkable clarity and vibrant colour saturation.
The Kao Mine, one of Lesotho’s most prominent diamond sources, has established a reputation for yielding high-quality pink diamonds. Alongside the Kao Legend, the mine also produced the celebrated Pink Eternity, a 47.80-carat gem of international acclaim.
For gemmologists and collectors alike, the Kao Legend Collection exemplifies nature’s artistry and the pinnacle of diamond excellence.
