Conflict Diamonds: Nations that Vetoed New Definition

A proposal to broaden the term at the KP plenary in Dubai last week was rejected by Australia, Canada, the EU (representing 27 member countries), Switzerland, Ukraine and the UK, according to the African Diamond Producers Association (ADPA). That's a total of 32 countries.

The Kimberley Process (KP) has again failed to reach agreement on a new definition of conflict diamonds.

A proposal to broaden the term at the KP plenary in Dubai last week was rejected by Australia, Canada, the EU (representing 27 member countries), Switzerland, Ukraine and the UK, according to the African Diamond Producers Association (ADPA). That’s a total of 32 countries.

Updating the current definition – diamonds used by rebel groups to finance armed conflict against legitimate governments – would have required a unanimous vote. There have been repeated attempts to broaden the definition since it was first adopted in 2000.

The World Diamond Council (WDC) spoke of its “profound regret” that a small number of participants had blocked consensus on long-awaited reforms designed to strengthen protections for Africa’s diamond-mining communities.

In a statement issued at the end of the plenary it did not identify those who had vetoed the new definition. But ADPA did.

ADPA said: “Six participants – Australia, Canada, the European Union, Switzerland, Ukraine, the United Kingdom and one observer, Civil Society Coalition, refused to support the expanded definition.”

It said its proposed definition “aimed to provide a Pan-African solution to today’s evolving nature of diamond conflicts and the realities on the ground”.

The ADPA’s broader definition would have included “armed groups, non-state armed groups, UN Security Council-sanctioned individuals and entities and their allies, as well as to cover actions aimed at financing armed conflict and other operations, including attempts at undermining legitimate governments, and the well-being of diamond communities”.

It singled out the EU for harsh criticism, claiming it had in recent years “purposefully blurred and made several attempts to bypass the work of the KP.

The World Diamond Council (WDC) said progress had been killed in pursuit of the impossible.

“Today’s outcome is not a failure of the KP,” said WDC president Feriel Zerouki (pictured), as the five-day plenary concluded.

“Most participants stood firmly behind Africa. The setback came from a few, not from the Process itself. And while they halted progress today, they cannot halt the direction of travel.”

Jaff Bamenjo coordinator of the KP Civil Society Coalition, an observer group that represents communities affected by diamond mining and trade, said KP remains detached from reality at a time when challenges are overwhelming and the KP refuses to take responsibility.

“Its scope remains a needle in a haystack,” he said. “Communities affected by diamond mining are left wondering how this scheme can possibly be relevant to the many problems they face.”

Source: IDEX

The Kimberley Process: Control of the Diamond Pipeline, Not the Use of Revenue

When the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) was launched in 2003, it was marketed as a global solution to stop “conflict diamonds” from funding civil wars and human rights abuses. However, more than two decades later, the realities of the initiative paint a very different picture. The Kimberley Process has evolved not into a tool of humanitarian oversight, but into a mechanism that controls the flow of rough diamonds—who mines them, who sells them, who profits—and with little concern for how those profits are ultimately used.

A System Focused on Legitimising Trade, Not Regulating Impact

The entire structure of the Kimberley Process revolves around documentation and export control. Diamonds are certified to ensure that they originate from “legitimate” channels, which mostly means from governments and recognised mining concessions. Once that documentation exists, the diamonds are cleared for international trade.

What the system does not do is monitor or regulate what happens next.

Once revenue enters official state budgets or company accounts, the Kimberley Process has no authority, no mandate, and no interest in determining whether diamond income:

  • Improves living standards in mining communities
  • Funds infrastructure, healthcare, or education
  • Supports social development
  • Or, conversely, fuels corruption, political patronage, or state violence

In many diamond-producing nations, government control of the resource is absolute, while accountability for the use of diamond wealth remains minimal.

Legitimacy Through the Stamp, Not Through the Outcome

A diamond certified under the Kimberley Process is considered “clean” simply because it does not fund a rebel movement. Yet the humanitarian reality is far more complex. In several countries, diamond mining takes place alongside:

  • Widespread corruption
  • Poverty in mining regions
  • Environmental degradation
  • Labour exploitation
  • Lack of reinvestment into the communities that generate the wealth

The certification system provides political legitimacy to the diamond trade while ignoring the social conditions behind it. In other words, the Kimberley Process ensures diamonds are “legitimate to sell,” not that the proceeds are “responsibly used.”

Who Really Controls the Diamond Narrative?

From the beginning, the Kimberley Process was structured by governments and major industry stakeholders, including those with the most to gain from a controlled and regulated supply chain. Control over certification effectively means control over access to export markets—an immense economic advantage.

This has allowed:

  • States to assert exclusive ownership over the resource
  • Major mining companies to maintain their dominant global trading roles
  • Smaller or informal miners to be excluded from legal markets
  • The narrative of “ethical diamonds” to remain tightly managed

In this sense, the Kimberley Process serves more as a trade gatekeeper than a humanitarian framework. It decides who may sell diamonds, where they may be shipped, and under what conditions—while staying silent on whether diamond-rich nations or their citizens truly benefit from the wealth beneath their soil.

A System Out of Step with Modern Expectations

In 2025, consumer expectations have changed dramatically. Jewellery buyers increasingly want:

  • Transparency
  • Ethical assurance
  • Positive social and environmental impact
  • Evidence of fair value distribution

Yet the Kimberley Process remains rooted in a narrow 20-year-old definition of conflict that does not consider:

  • Government-sponsored abuse
  • Corruption
  • Human rights violations
  • Economic exploitation
  • Lack of benefit to local communities

For modern ethical standards, this is an outdated and insufficient framework.

Conclusion

The uncomfortable truth is this: the Kimberley Process is primarily a system for controlling the supply and movement of diamonds, not for ensuring that the immense wealth generated improves lives or supports sustainable development.

It decides who is allowed to trade diamonds, not how diamond money is used. Until the initiative expands beyond its limited mandate and confronts the broader social realities of the diamond industry, the Kimberley Process will remain a trade tool—not a humanitarian safeguard.

No Probe into Collapse of Diamond Brand with $220m Debts

luxury diamond jewelry brand Vashi

The UK’s Serious Fraud Office (SFO) decided not to investigate the luxury diamond jewelry brand Vashi, which subsequently collapsed in 2023 with debts of $220m, according to the BBC.

The company gained attention for its innovative approach to selling high-quality diamonds directly to consumers, and for its flamboyant founder, chairman and CEO Vashi Dominguez. But it was declared bankrupt in April 2023 after a court ruling forced it into liquidation.

But the company’s former chief technology officer John Ames reportedly warned the SFO that Vashi was defrauding investors and falsifying accounts in May 2022, almost a year earlier.

The SFO decided not to investigate, according to a BBC report, despite documentation which allegedly showed the company had made sales worth £5.5m ($7.2m) in 2020, rather than the £53.6m ($70m) boasted of in marketing materials and filed in the company accounts.

Mr Ames contacted the SFO in May 2022. In an online form he said: “I discovered (Vashi) to be defrauding their investors, they are also likely to be misstating information on their statutory reporting, both through inflated stock holdings and failing to provide details on revenue sources.”

Dominguez reportedly left for Dubai on the day the company went into liquidation. His whereabouts are not known.

Dominguez (pictured) attracted investment from high-profile backers, including mobile phones billionaire John Cauldwell, and Nick Wheeler, founder of British shirtmaker Charles Tyrwhitt.

The Spanish-born entrepreneur also had a flair for self-publicity, positioned himself as a diamond expert in national newspapers and appeared with celebrities on TV.

Source: IDEX

Swarovski Cuts 400 Jobs at Austria HQ

WATTENS, AUSTRIA - 07 May 2009: Swarovski Corporation headquarter. Company is traditional producer cut crystal and was founded by in 1895.

Swarovski is to cut around 400 jobs at its headquarters in Austria and to reduce pay and working hours there for the remaining 2,100 staff.

The family-run company, founded in 1895, blamed weaker sales to other companies rather than direct sales to individual consumers.

Layoffs will start in January 2026, the company said. It will also reduce staff numbers through voluntary departures, and retirements.

In addition, Swarovski, best known for its crystal products, will reduce pay and hours for HQ staff by 10 per cent and eliminate the night shift.

Swarovski has axed over 5,000 jobs since 2007, reflecting ongoing efforts to slim down the workforce amid market pressures.

The company, which has 2,300 outlets globally, returned to profit in 2024 after five years, and reported full-year revenue of EUR 1.9bn (USD 2.0bn).

Pic shows the Swarovski HQ, in Wattens, Austria.

Source: IDEX

India’s Polished Exports Fall Sharply in October

Diamond Polishing
Diamond Polishing

India’s cut and polished exports fell sharply in October to $1.026bn, down 27 per cent year-on-year and down 25 per cent on the previous month, according to new figures from GJEPC (Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council).

Exports peaked in September at $1.368bn, as manufacturers raced to beat US deadlines. They then fell back in October to around where they were in July and August.

The US imposed a 25 per cent tariff on 7 August, rising to 50 per cent on 27 August. The grace period (25 rather than 50 per cent) for goods in transit before August 27, ended on 17 September.

“The decline in overall exports in October was mainly due to demand being pushed forward before the US tariff was implemented,” GJEPC chairman Kirit Bhansali told the PTI news agency.

“Most of the stocking up for the festivals took place before August 27, therefore, in October the demand was down.”

Overall gross exports of all gems and jewelry fell by 30.6 per cent year-on-year to $2.168bn, that’s a drop of 25.6 per cent compared with the previous month.

Source: IDEX

$20m Pink Diamond Pulled from Sotheby’s Sale

The Glowing Rose 10.08 carat vivid pink diamond

The Glowing Rose, a 10.08-carat vivid pink diamond that was expected to sell for around $20m was pulled from Sotheby’s High Jewelry Sale in Geneva last week.

It was withdrawn prior to the sale on 12 November. A notice on the Sotheby’s website simply says: “This lot is no longer available.”

The cushion-modified brilliant VVS2 stone (pictured), set in a platinum band featuring baguette and brilliant cut white diamonds, would have been only the third vivid pink cushion-cut diamond over 10 carats to come to auction in the last 10 years.

It was cut from a 21-carat Type IIa rough stone recovered in 2023, from a mine in Angola and was due to appear at auction for the first time.

Two days earlier (10 November) another pink diamond pulled from another sale, The old-cut Golconda 6.95-carat fancy vivid purplish pink diamond was due to lead the sale was withdrawn by Phillips from its Geneva Jewels Auction: V event, in agreement with the consignor.

The Sotheby’s High Jewelry Sale generated around $37m, with 94 per cent of lots sold and 98 per cent of the sold lots exceeding their estimates.

Top lot was a 4.50-carat internally flawless oval mixed-cut fancy vivid blue diamond that achieved more than $5.9m.

Source: IDEX

Angola Makes a Bid for De Beers, Reshaping the Global Diamond Landscape

De Beers Global Sightholder Sorting a parcel of rough diamonds
De Beers Global Sightholder Sorting a parcel of rough diamonds over a light box using a hand loupe.

Angola has signalled its intention to buy back the 85% stake in De Beers currently held by Anglo American, in a move that has immediately captured global industry attention. The proposal, made through Angola’s state-owned diamond company Endiama, comes at a time when the diamond sector has struggled to regain momentum after the downturn that began in 2022.

The announcement positions Angola decisively on the world stage. The country produced 10.7 million carats in the first nine months of the year and is targeting a record 14.8 million carats by 2025. According to the Kimberley Process, Angola’s expected 14 million carats in 2024 place it above Botswana in rough-diamond output for the first time in two decades. This surge, driven by the vast Catoca open-pit mine and other major deposits, underscores Angola’s long-term strategy of advancing local beneficiation and resource industrialisation.

Against this backdrop, Endiama has formally expressed interest in acquiring Anglo American’s controlling stake as the parent company restructures and divests assets following its 2024 strategic review. Should the transaction proceed, it would mark one of the most consequential ownership shifts in the diamond industry’s modern history.

Complicating the landscape is Botswana’s position. The country currently holds the remaining 15% stake in De Beers and announced in September its intention to increase its shareholding to more than 50%. Botswana relies heavily on diamonds, which account for roughly one-third of government revenue and 80% of exports, while Angola is seeking to reduce dependence on oil through expansion of its mining sector.

The implications of an Angolan takeover are far-reaching. De Beers remains one of the world’s most influential suppliers of rough diamonds, with 2024 revenues of US$2.7 billion and a valuation near US$4.9 billion. Its sales cycles, production planning, and market guidance shape between one-quarter and one-third of global rough supply, giving the company significant influence over pricing, availability, and the high-end jewellery pipeline.

A shift in control could potentially redirect more value-added processes to Africa, including sorting, cutting, and polishing — areas historically dominated by centres outside the continent. Increased localisation could boost employment, strengthen regional economies, and reshape supply-chain dynamics at a time when Botswana has reduced output and seen fiscal pressure rise, while Angola’s production profile continues to accelerate.

However, questions remain. Angola has stated that the acquisition would not be funded through its national budget, leaving the structure and financing mechanism yet to be clarified. Diplomatic tension with Botswana is another risk factor, particularly if competing bids emerge or national interests collide.

On a global scale, the outcome could introduce both opportunity and volatility. Greater African control over rough supply may support local markets, but the broader diamond industry continues to face challenges, including subdued demand, geopolitical instability, and mounting competition from lab-grown diamonds, which have disrupted consumer expectations and pricing patterns.

If Angola’s bid succeeds, it would mark a historic realignment of influence within the natural-diamond sector — one with the potential to reshape trade flows, pricing dynamics, and the strategic balance of power for years to come.

6.17-ct Fancy Pink could Fetch $1.8m

6.17-ct Fancy Pink

A 6.17-carat fancy pink diamond is expected to fetch up to $1.8m in an online auction.

The Angelina belonged to Willa Dean Lyon, wife of Maj Gen William Lyon, and was named after their granddaughter.

Maj Gen Lyon was a successful businessman and real estate magnate from Southern California who built over 100,000 homes across the US. He died in 2020, aged 97. His wife died last year, aged 92.

The VVS2 oval modified brilliant diamond is set in an 18k white and rose gold ring, with about 1.00-cts of near-colorless diamonds.

It is being sold by Heritage Auctions, based in Dallas, as part of its Holiday Fine Jewelry Signature Auction, which closes on 3 December. The estimate is $1.2m to $1.8m.

According to the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF), fancy pinks have appreciated by roughly 116 per cent over the past decade, outpacing all other fancy color categories for their investment potential.

Source: IDEX

Iconic Rainbow Collection Sells Just Above Low Estimate at Christie’s Geneva

Rainbow Diamond Collection

The legendary Rainbow Collection more than 300 fancy coloured diamonds amassed over four decades by the late Eddy Elzas sold for just above its low estimate at Christie’s Geneva on 11 November, achieving $2.19 million against a pre-sale estimate of $1.98 million to $2.98 million.

Comprising around 350 carats and spanning the full colour spectrum, the collection was once hailed as one of the world’s most extraordinary private assemblages of fancy coloured diamonds. Over the years, press reports placed its value between $60 million and $100 million.

Elzas, affectionately known as “The King of Coloured Diamonds,” famously declined a lavish offer from a Saudi prince who reportedly wished to purchase the collection as a wedding gift for Prince Charles and Lady Diana.

A true pioneer in the fancy colour diamond trade, Eddy Elzas was instrumental in elevating global recognition of coloured diamonds during his 40-year career. He passed away in November 2021 at the age of 79.

Christie’s described the Rainbow Collection as “an impressive collection of unmounted coloured and treated coloured diamonds,” featuring 300 stones across an array of hues and shapes. The lot included 291 GIA reports dated between 2008 and 2025, with diamonds ranging from 0.24 carats to 4.89 carats in yellow, orange, blue, pink, red, brown, and grey tones.

For the DCLA, this sale highlights not only the enduring fascination with fancy colour diamonds but also the evolving market perception of rarity and provenance in today’s auction landscape.

Vanderbilt Sapphire Brooch Sells for $3.6 Million at Phillips Geneva

Vanderbilt Sapphire Brooch

The magnificent 42.68-carat Vanderbilt Sapphire, a gem steeped in the legacy of the Vanderbilt shipping and railroad dynasty, achieved an impressive $3.6 million at Phillips Geneva Jewels Auction: V more than double its high estimate of $1.5 million.

This sugarloaf-cut, unheated Kashmir sapphire, renowned for its velvety royal blue hue, was mounted in a 20th-century Tiffany & Co. brooch of elegant openwork scroll design, accented with white diamonds.

The sapphire was the undisputed highlight of the Geneva sale, held on 10 November, which totalled $17 million with 85% of the 114 lots sold.

While the highly anticipated 6.95-carat Golconda fancy vivid purplish pink diamond was withdrawn by mutual agreement between Phillips and the consignor, other notable results included a 10.08-carat light pink-brown diamond that achieved an auction record for its colour category, selling for $881,000 against an estimate of $650,000.

The event drew over 1,600 visitors to the preview and sale, with bidders from 44 countries, underscoring the strong global demand for exceptional natural gemstones and historic jewels.

Benoit Repellin, Phillips’ Worldwide Head of Jewellery, commented:

“The results of today’s sale attest to the enduring appeal of period jewels and the discerning eye of our international clients. To bring the jewels of the Vanderbilt family to the world’s stage was a moment of profound privilege.”

For collectors and connoisseurs, the Vanderbilt Sapphire’s result reaffirms the continued strength of the market for unheated Kashmir sapphires and heritage pieces with notable provenance a testament to their rarity, beauty, and timeless allure.

Rare ‘Mellon Blue’ Diamond Fetches $25.5 Million at Christie’s Geneva Market Reflects Shifting Demand for Coloured Diamonds

The legendary Mellon Blue Diamond a 9.51-carat fancy vivid blue, internally flawless gem
Mellon Blue Diamond

The legendary Mellon Blue Diamond a 9.51-carat fancy vivid blue, internally flawless gem sold for $25.5 million USD at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva this week. The sale, held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, drew global attention from elite collectors and gem enthusiasts alike.

The Mellon Blue once belonged to renowned art collector Rachel Lambert “Bunny” Mellon, whose refined taste and cultural influence continue to shape the world of art and jewellery. Despite its exquisite pedigree, the price achieved represents a 22 percent decrease from its previous sale 11 years ago and a nearly 60 percent drop in real value when adjusted for inflation.

Originally auctioned at Sotheby’s in 2014 as part of Mellon’s estate collection, the diamond fetched $32.6 million USD, setting a world record for a blue diamond at that time. Adjusted for inflation, that sum equates to approximately $44.7 million in 2025.

Christie’s had estimated the gem between $20 million and $30 million, and the final sale once again highlighted the continuing prestige of exceptional coloured diamonds despite softer market conditions.

Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s Chairman of Global Luxury and President of Asia Pacific, remarked:

“It was a true honour to offer for sale the exquisite Mellon Blue Diamond here at Christie’s Geneva. It was another notable moment for Christie’s Luxury, evidencing the elite appetite amongst collectors for extraordinary and storied gems.”

The winning bidder, identified only as a collector from Hong Kong, continued the stone’s legacy of global fascination.

While the Mellon Blue once held the world record for a blue diamond, that benchmark has since been overtaken by two other remarkable stones:

  • The 14.62-carat Oppenheimer Blue, sold at Christie’s in 2016 for $57.5 million USD
  • The 15.10-carat De Beers Cullinan Blue, sold by Sotheby’s in 2022, also for $57.5 million USD

These historic sales underline the rarity and enduring appeal of fancy vivid blue diamonds, which represent less than 0.1 percent of all diamonds, and of those, fewer than 1 percent qualify as fancy vivid.

Bunny Mellon, who passed away in 2014 at age 103, was celebrated not only for her wealth being heiress to the Listerine and Mellon fortunes but also for her artistry and impeccable taste. She famously designed the White House Rose Garden and curated an impressive art collection that included two Rothko masterpieces, which together realised $76 million USD at auction.

When Christie’s announced the diamond’s return to auction earlier this year, Kadakia described the sale as a tribute to Mellon’s lasting influence, saying her legacy “elevates the Mellon Blue’s allure by tying it to her sophisticated aesthetic and cultural prominence.”

The auction itself was as heated as the competition literally with the auctioneer requesting the windows be opened mid-sale to cool the room as bidding intensified.


About DCLA: The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) is the official CIBJO-recognised diamond laboratory in Australia, specialising in independent diamond grading and certification. DCLA ensures the highest international standards of accuracy, integrity, and transparency in diamond evaluation.