Dubai’s Polished Diamonds – an Industry Hanging in the Balance

Peter Meeus is former managing director of Antwerp Diamond Bourse and HRD

Dubai’s ascent in the global diamond trade is undeniable, yet its polished diamond business now confronts a critical threat. Opaque regulations, punitive taxes, and mounting costs are pushing diamantaires, particularly from key markets, to look elsewhere – a stark reminder of past industry shifts that demand urgent, decisive action to preserve its hard-won leadership.

A century ago, Dubai stood as the undisputed pearling capital of the world, yet the advent of cultured pearls ushered in an overnight shift that shattered that dominance, forcing the emirate to adapt, pivot, and ultimately thrive through oil, trade, and tourism. History, however, whispers a stark warning: once a hub loses its competitive edge, recovery often remains out of reach. Today, as Dubai asserts its pre-eminence in the global diamond sector, particularly as the world’s leading hub for rough diamonds since 2021 and a top-three global centre overall, its polished diamond business stands at a similar precipice. Mounting tax ambiguities, punitive regulations, and soaring operational costs threaten to drive traders away, risking a mass exodus that could see its hard-won sparkle fade for good.

Firstly, it is important to acknowledge that Dubai’s journey to becoming a global trading powerhouse is truly exceptional. Dubai’s rise to eminence did not come easy. I have had the honour to work for over 12 years with Ahmed Bin Sulayem, Executive Chairman and CEO at Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC). Under his outstanding leadership, Dubai’s diamond sector had to sail through difficult weather, often culminating in storms instigated by NGOs who on their turn often were pushed against Dubai by competing entities.

However, bearing in mind the Ruler of Dubai, HRH Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum’s mantra: “In the race to excellence there is no finish line,” Dubai meticulously cultivated an ecosystem of world-class infrastructure, unmatched connectivity, and a business-friendly environment.

This soon propelled Dubai to the forefront of the gold and rough diamond trade. In 2024, its polished diamond trade alone surged past USD 13.1 billion, contributing to a remarkable cumulative total (rough and polished) of USD 57.5 billion over the past five years. Growing by a staggering 32 per cent to USD 16.9bn in 2023, polished diamonds represent nearly 50 per cent of the UAE’s total diamond trade, underscoring their pivotal role in its strategic expansion.

In the same spirit, any business, company and government entity – no matter how successful it becomes – has to keep a deep sense of self-criticism and always check for weaknesses and threats. Indeed, despite these impressive figures and inherent advantages, a significant share of the global polished diamond trade, particularly from key players in Israel, continue to bypass the UAE in favour of direct routes to established markets such as the United States, Antwerp, and Hong Kong. Through a combination of predictable regulatory landscapes, deep pools of experienced professionals, and often, more favourable tax treatments for polished diamonds, each of these centres have instilled greater business confidence, and all this despite the recently enacted U.S. trade tariffs. For Dubai to truly hold on to, and leverage opportunities presented by agreements like the Abraham Accords in boosting the UAE-Israel polished diamond trade, the UAE must urgently address its existing and forthcoming structural barriers.

One of the most critical obstacles is the existing VAT framework. While the UAE applies a reverse-charge VAT mechanism to rough diamonds, this crucial benefit does not consistently extend to polished diamonds, thereby diminishing Dubai’s global competitiveness. Although Cabinet Decision No. 127 in January 2025 aimed to extend the VAT reverse-charge mechanism to polished diamonds and a broader range of precious stones, for many, this feels like too little, too late. This inconsistency, coupled with high corporate tax rates directly undermines the UAE’s ability to attract high-value polished diamond activity and compete effectively. As an example, in Belgium and the U.S., inter-company diamond trades are entirely VAT exempt.

As an additional issue, albeit one for another day, the culpability of highly-paid consultants in this evolving crisis, cannot be overstated. Global advisory firms like PwC find themselves in a glaring conflict of interest, reportedly advising the UAE Ministry of Finance on imposing these very taxes, while simultaneously counselling entities like the Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC) on mitigating them. This duality has only amplified uncertainty, leaving traders in a state of paralysis. One must question what advice these consultants offer their clients in competitive markets, and how they are delivering tangible growth.

Beyond VAT, the additional spectre of B2B taxation and opaque regulation has also made Dubai less competitive. Anecdotal statements from industry stakeholders include fines being issued for unclear reasons, with practically no recourse for contestation due to the absence of any industry ombudsman, while significant taxes and fees are actively pricing out SMEs from the market.

While praise should be given to the UAE government for its equally giant leaps in combatting anti-money laundering and counter terrorism financing, AML regulations have now become more stringent than in any other major centres. Diamantaires in Dubai are effectively being treated like banks, with every transaction above AED 55,000 (USD 15,000) requiring full disclosure. Even an elementary cost comparison with other key markets reveals some startling comparisons. For instance, Belgium has a special corporate incomes tax regime for diamond traders which is reportedly substantially cheaper than Dubai, while any large companies in the emirate paying amounts over USD 3 million in interest (or 30 per cent of EBITDA, whichever is higher) are not eligible for tax deductions, even if paid to banks. Operating expenses in Dubai are also notorious, running an estimated 35 per cent higher than its competitors, while shipment and customs charges are 45 per cent steeper than in Belgium or the U.S. As a result, Dubai has already seen some lab-grown diamond businesses move their operations to Belgium as a direct consequence of these mounting pressures.

This situation echoes the stark warning from Dubai’s pearling legacy, which didn’t vanish due to competition, but inaction in the face of disruptive change. The diamond sector, now a cornerstone of its economic diversification, faces a similar fate. Traders are already voting with their feet, convinced the environment is becoming less hospitable, and once they depart, reclaiming their business will be an insurmountable challenge.

All this being said, this isn’t the first time the UAE has found itself in a similar situation. In the face of mounting pressure on gold and rough diamonds, the UAE Cabinet recognised the imperative for swift action, and on 1st May 2018, decisively reversed the tax on both commodities. This pivotal and wise decision was taken based on a DMCC in-depth analysis of Dubai’s competitive position in the rough diamond trade and not only saved both industries from decline but allowed them to flourish, cementing Dubai’s position as a top global destination.

The same decisive intervention is now urgently required for Dubai’s polished diamond sector. By extending the VAT reverse-charge mechanism consistently to polished diamonds, enhancing corporate tax incentives, easing the administrative burden of AML for legitimate trades, and ensuring regulatory clarity ahead of the corporate tax filing deadline on 30th September 2025, the emirate still has time to avoid both the legal and compliance ambiguities that lead to costly retrospective adjustments. Additionally, this proactive approach will attract high-value polished diamond activity, enabling the emirate to fully leverage its underutilised bonded free zones, while highlighting Dubai’s strategic advantages and robust infrastructure.

Global market volatility and shifting tariff regimes present a timely opportunity for the UAE to assert and uphold itself as a world leader in polished diamonds. Policy enhancements, particularly around taxation and regulation, could yield substantial gains in trade flows, investment, and economic diversification, while unequivocally elevating the UAE’s prestige within the international gemstone sector. Dubai’s diamond empire stands at a crossroads where a sobering assessment of its competitiveness and decisive action will undoubtedly dictate its ongoing success or untimely demise. As there is no finishing line in the search for excellence, the time to act is NOW.

Source: IDEX

Gem Diamonds to cut jobs, salaries amid industry crisis

Gem Diamonds to cut jobs, salaries amid industry crisis

Gem Diamonds has become the latest casualty in a deepening crisis engulfing the global diamond industry, announcing sweeping cost-cutting measures as the market buckles under falling prices and the growing popularity of lab-grown alternatives.

The Africa-focused diamond producer reported a 43% drop in revenue to $44.7 million for the first half of its financial year. Carat sales fell 22% to 44,360, while the average price per carat plunged 26% to $1,008.

In response, it said it would reduce operating costs by $1.4 million to $1.6 million per month and cut around 250 jobs, or 20% of its workforce, at its Letšeng mine in Lesotho. Executives have also taken voluntary salary reductions.

“Considering the prolonged weakness in global diamond prices, compounded by a weak dollar and ongoing US tariff uncertainties, Gem has implemented decisive measures to conserve cash and protect shareholder value,” the company said.

Despite meeting production targets, Gem Diamonds admitted it has not been shielded from sustained pressure on rough diamond prices and adverse currency movements. Investors reacted accordingly, with the company’s shares falling more than 20% in early trading on the London Stock Exchange. They partially rebound to 5.5 pence in late trading, valuing the company at £7.7 million ($10 million).

Gem Diamonds’ measures mirrors those of its peers. just last week, Burgundy Diamond Mines (ASX: BDM) halted open pit operations at its Ekati mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories, triggering mass layoffs.

All three operating diamond mines in the region — Ekati, Diavik and Gahcho Kué — are now facing eventual closure, with Diavik scheduled to close in 2026 and Gahcho Kué expected to cease operations by 2030. Ekati’s long-term future remains uncertain.

Getting worse
Signs of a worsening crisis in the diamond sector were already clear in the first three months of 2025. De Beers, the world’s largest producer by value, saw a 44% drop in revenue in Q1 and is sitting on $2 billion in unsold inventory. It plans to cut over 1,000 jobs at its Debswana joint venture in Botswana.

Russia’s Alrosa, hampered by sanctions, reported a 77% plunge in profits and has halted production at key sites.

Petra Diamonds (LON: PDL) is fighting to survive after a 30% drop in sales and the sudden departure of its CEO.

Lucapa (ASX:LOM) entered voluntary administration in Australia, and Sierra Leone’s Koidu Limited shuttered operations and laid off more than 1,000 employees after losing $16 million to labour strikes.

Even Lucara (TSX: LUC), which operates in both Botswana and Canada, has flagged a “going concern” risk despite hitting production records.

All eyes are now on De Beers. Once synonymous with manufactured scarcity and aggressive branding, the company is up for sale. Parent company Anglo American (LON: AAL) has cut its valuation by $4.5 billion in just over a year. No buyers have emerged, but Botswana is reportedly pushing to take a controlling stake.

Source: mining.com

Steady Decline in Number of US Jewelry Businesses

Steady Decline in Number of US Jewelry Businesses

The number of US jewelry businesses shrank yet again in Q2, according to the latest update from the Jewelers Board of Trade (JBT), which provides commercial credit information.

The figures show a long-term decline continuing at a steady rate, with figures for the last four quarters showing a year-on-year fall of around 3 per cent in the total number of retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers.

The JBT statistics take account of new businesses as well as ceased operations.

The biggest decline, in percentage terms, was manufacturers. There are 104 fewer today than there were a year ago, down 4.7 per cent to 2,104.

There are 516 fewer retailers, down 3.0 per cent to 16,873, and 86 fewer wholesalers, down 2.6 per cent to 3,241.

During Q2 there were 28 closures due to mergers or takeovers, three bankruptcies and 143 businesses that ceased activity for other reasons.

In addition, 561 company credit ratings were downgraded in Q2 2025, and 639 upgraded – compared to 633 downgrades and 663 upgrades in the same quarter previous year.

JBT also provides figures for Canada, which has a far smaller jewelry sector. It shrank by 1.8 per cent.

Source: IDEX

Botswana President: “De Beers is Not Doing its Job”

Botswana President

Botswana president Duma Boko has criticized De Beers for “not doing its job” in an unusually forthright attack.

“Maybe we should take over and sell them (the diamonds) ourselves,” he told an audience last week on a visit to Lesotho, while lamenting his country’s struggling economy.

His comments come just six months after his government signed a long-overdue 10-year sales and mining agreement with De Beers.

His predecessor Mokgweetsi Masisi had threatened on several occasions to walk away from a deal that has been in place since 1969, as he demanded a greater share of the diamonds.

Boko, who swept to power in a surprise victory last October, was seen as less combative in his dealings with De Beers, and quickly got the deal signed, after Masisi’s delays.

But Boko’s comments last week indicate a growing frustration as Botswana battles poverty and high unemployment.

He said diamonds discovered and recovered in Botswana should benefit Botswana.

“So if the diamonds are there, how is the country broke?” he said.

“Now they’re not being sold. Who is selling them? De Beers. Ah, then De Beers is not doing its job. Maybe we should take over and sell them ourselves.

“That’s what we should do. And that would be deemed very radical.

“But the country needs the money and it has the diamonds and somebody who’s supposed to be selling the diamonds is not doing the job.

“Oh, no, and we are simply sitting on our laurels folding up our arms and hoping beyond hope …

“We will take the diamonds and see what we can do with them. They are ours. These diamonds are ours. And so before the end of this year, something very drastic in that space will happen. If it doesn’t happen, we will die trying. By all means.”

We have approached De Beers for comment.

Source: IDEX

Future of natural diamonds depends on industry unity – WFDB

World Federation of Diamond Bourses

World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) president Yoram Dvash has raised concern about the “meteoric” rise in the penetration of synthetic diamonds into the market, which he believes threatens the value and future of the natural diamond.

He explains that synthetic diamonds started as a marginal phenomenon but has become an unprecedented flood. In less than a decade, lab-grown diamonds have grown to comprise 20% of global jewellery sales.

In the US, which Dvash deems the world’s most important jewellery market, most new engagement rings now include synthetic diamonds, owing to their falling prices and the difficulty to distinguish them from natural diamonds.

For Dvash, this trend is not just about displaced natural diamond sales but changes in values and culture. “It is about the loss of the sense of intrinsic worth, wonder and uniqueness that have underpinned the natural diamond for generations,” he says.

He urges all key players in the industry to make a concerted effort on a global scale to restore the natural diamond to centre stage.

Dvash says he is encouraged about the industry recognising the importance of working together to raise the image of the natural diamond, as demonstrated at the WFDB’s President’s Meeting in June.

He mentions that during the event speeches, panels and private conversations, mining companies, international organisations, retailers and diamond exchanges all expressed a willingness to invest more effort and resources to encourage natural diamond consumption.

Some of the commitments made by natural diamond industry members include signing the Luanda Accord, De Beers committing to invest in raising the desirability of natural diamonds through educational and marketing campaigns, and the Natural Diamond Council (NDC) establishing a new educational website to enable jewellery salespeople to be better informed to communicate the unique value of natural diamonds to customers.

The Luanda Accord was signed following the WFDB President’s Meeting by African diamond-producing countries and industry stakeholders. It involves an agreement to pool resources and boost global marketing efforts for natural diamonds.

All parties to the accord have agreed to contribute 1% of their rough diamond sales revenue to a fund managed by the NDC.

The WFDB itself launched a campaign using original videos to promote the emotional significance of natural diamonds.

Dvash expresses gratitude at the industry coming together at this important juncture, especially to uphold natural diamonds as a symbol, not just a product. “Its future depends on our unity,” he concludes.

Source: miningweekly

Thousands of Swiss Watchmakers’ Jobs at Risk

Swiss Watchmakers

Thousands of Swiss watchmakers are facing an uncertain future from 1 August, when the state-funded furlough program comes to an end.

Employers will have to find a way to pay their salary, or let them go.

The furlough scheme, widely used during the Covid pandemic, was never intended to meet such long-term needs as the ongoing decline in demand for luxury watches.

The industry has been relying heavily on support from the government, which has until now covered 80 per cent of furloughed workers’ salaries.

But a decline in global demand since the second half of 2023 shows little sign of recovery.

Smaller and mid-market brands are feeling the squeeze more than large, high-end brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and may be forced to lay off staff.

Watchmakers avoid permanent job losses wherever possible, because of the difficulties in recruiting skilled workers when demand picks up.

Many watchmaking companies have put workers on short-time working even if they have been able to avoid temporary retrenchments.

Swiss watch exports were down 2.8 per cent by value in 2024, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, with sales in China down by almost 26 per cent.

Last September we reported that Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin, (sold off by the Kering Group), had put 15 per cent of their workforce on short-time working and that 40 companies – mostly tool, machinery or component suppliers – applied for permission to cut their workers’ hours in Jura, one of Switzerland’s 26 cantons.

Source: IDEX

Hundreds of Layoffs at Loss-Making Ekati

Hundreds of Layoffs at Loss-Making Ekati

Hundreds of workers have been laid off at the loss-making Ekati diamond mine, in Canada’s Northwest Territories, as owners Burgundy say falling prices have made some of its operations “sub-economic”.

Open pit work at Point Lake kimberlite pipe has been suspended, although operations are continuing at the underground Misery mine 2km away.

Burgundy, the Australian miner that bought Ekati for $136m in 2023, said yesterday (Wednesday 16 July) that “several hundred employees and contractors” were affected, but did not provide an exact figure.

The company requested a trading halt on the Australian Securities Exchange ahead of the layoff announcement.

Workers reportedly learned of the job losses when rotation flights to the remote were cancelled on Wednesday morning – ahead of the actual announcement.

The job losses at Ekati follow layoffs elsewhere in diamond mining, notably the loss of several hundred more jobs at the state-owned Zimbabwe Consolidated Diamond Company (ZCDC).

Ekati, together with Canada’s two other mines – Diavik and Gahcho Kue – is facing the possibility of closure before the end of its lifetime because of dwindling prices. Diavik is due to close in 2029.

Diamond mining is key to NWT’s economy, representing over a quarter of its GDP, but miners have been hit hard by the downturn. Diavik mine lost CAD 127m (USD 94.6m) in 2024.

Source: IDEX

Signet Slips in NRF Retail Rankings

Signet Slips in NRF Retail Rankings

Signet slipped from 67th to 69th place in the NRF’s annual rankings of the biggest grossing retailers in the US.

Sales shrank by 5 per cent, down to $6.21bn, according to National Retail Federation figures released last Thursday (10 July).

Signet, the world’s largest retailer of diamond jewelry, which includes Kay Jewelers, Zales, Jared and Banter by Piercing Pagoda, peaked in 56th position in 2023.

In 2020, when the Covid pandemic hit, it was 98th, in 2021 it was 78th and in 2022 it was 66th. 

Walmart tops the 2025 NRF list, as it has done without exception since the 1990s, with US retail sales of $568.70 bn, representing a year-on-year sales growth of 7 per cent.

Amazon is second ($273.66bn, 9 per cent growth) and Costco is third ($273.66bn, 4 per cent growth).

The list, compiled by data, research, and analytics company Kantar, presents “a picture of ongoing, steady trends and few real surprises,” said NRF.

“In the midst of economic and political uncertainty, perhaps there’s some comfort in a ‘relatively static’ retail environment.”

In a separate ranking, National Jeweler magazine’s annual State of the Majors report published in May, Signet remained the biggest-grossing jeweler in North America.

Sales slipped from $6.7bn in 2023 to $6.3bn, according to figures obtained by National Jeweler. Watch and jewelry sales at second-placed Walmart were down slightly from $3.58bn to $3.52bn.

Source: IDEX

IGI Stands by 4Cs Grading for Lab Growns

IGI Grading for Lab Growns

IGI says it has no plans to stop grading lab growns for color and clarity.

Its announcement yesterday (14 July) comes weeks after its biggest rival, GIA, said it would start grading lab growns simply as “standard” or “premium”.

IGI (International Gemological Institute) started lab grown grading in 2005 and says it will carry on applying the 4Cs “to prevent industry and consumer confusion”.

The move, detailed in a press release headlined “IGI Reaffirms Commitment to 4Cs Grading for all Diamonds,” puts clear blue sky between it and GIA.

More than half the diamonds graded by IGI are now lab growns – 54 per cent according to its latest financial update. Meanwhile, the vast majority of GIA’s business is in grading natural stones.

In its statement IGI said: “This affirmation (that it will continue applying the universal 4Cs grading to all diamonds, whether natural or lab-grown) comes as many in the industry grapple with the unprecedented shift by others to a different, diluted scale for lab grown diamonds sent to their locations.”

Last month GIA, which started grading lab growns in 2006, said it would no longer score them for color or clarity because the vast majority fall into such a narrow range that the nomenclature is no longer relevant.

Source: IDEX

Retailer Buys Canadian Diamond Project

Arctic Blue shows a fluorescent diamond under UV light.

Canadian retailer Arctic Blue has bought a controlling interest in the WO Diamond Project, in Northwest Territories, where explorations are at an advanced stage.

Arctic Blue Diamonds Ltd, a private diamond company that specializes in the rare blue fluorescent diamonds, says it operations at the mine could involve the use underwater remote mining (URM) technology.

It said had acquired an 89.7 per cent interest in the WO Diamond Project, primarily from Peregrine Diamonds, a subsidiary of De Beers Canada, for an undisclosed sum.

The”WO” in the WO Diamond Project stands for “West of”, as in west of the Ekati diamond mine (owned by Australia-based Burgundy Diamond Mines).

The WO Project, currently on care and maintenance, encompasses eight mining leases covering 5,815 hectares located about 11km off the seasonal ice road, 23km from the Diavik diamond mine and 53km from the Ekati diamond mine.

It hosts DO27, one of the largest diamond-bearing kimberlite pipes in Canada, with an indicated mineral resource of 18.2m carats. It has a surface area of about 9 hectares and lies below a shallow lake.

Based on independent rough diamond price indices, the average prices for DO27 diamonds are projected at $90 – $100 per carat.

“The extremely soft nature of the DO27 ore also opens the potential for the deployment of Underwater Remote Mining (URM) technology,” said Arctic Blue executive chair Patrick Evans.

He said it offered exceptionally low capital and operating cost opportunities, and was the most sustainable form of mining, with minimal impact on the environment.

Source: IDEX

Fluorescence

Fluorescence in Diamonds: What It Is and How It Affects Your Diamond
Fluorescence in diamonds refers to the glow that a diamond emits when exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. When a diamond has fluorescence, it can show a blueish glow (or, in rare cases, other colours) under UV light. This phenomenon is due to the presence of trace elements, typically boron or nitrogen, in the diamond’s crystal structure.

How Fluorescence Works in Diamonds
Ultraviolet Light Exposure:

Fluorescence occurs when a diamond is exposed to UV light—such as sunlight, certain types of lamps, or black lights—which excites the molecules in the diamond and causes them to emit visible light in a blue hue.
Intensity of Fluorescence:

The level of fluorescence can range from none to very strong. This is graded as follows:
None: No fluorescence under UV light.
Faint: The diamond shows a very slight fluorescence.
Medium: Noticeable fluorescence, but not very strong.
Strong: The diamond emits a noticeable glow when exposed to UV light.
Very Strong: The diamond gives off an intense glow in UV light.
Color of Fluorescence: