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Fire

Fire in a Diamond: What It Is & How It Affects Beauty
Fire refers to the dispersion of light into the various colors of the rainbow when light passes through a diamond. It is one of the key characteristics that contribute to a diamond’s overall brilliance and beauty, alongside brilliance (white light reflection) and scintillation (sparkle).

How Fire is Created in a Diamond
When light enters a diamond, it bends (refracts) due to the diamond’s high refractive index. As the light is reflected within the diamond and exits through the facets, it is split into the spectral colors (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet). The amount and intensity of this colorful dispersion are what we refer to as fire.

Factors That Affect Fire in a Diamond
Cut:

Diamond cut quality plays the most important role in how fire is displayed.
The angles and proportions of the diamond’s facets affect how light enters and exits, influencing the intensity of fire.
Well-cut diamonds will show a beautiful, rainbow-like dispersion of color, while poorly cut diamonds may not display as much fire.
Shape:

Certain diamond shapes tend to show fire more prominently, especially those with more facets.
Round Brilliant diamonds have 57 facets, which allow for optimal dispersion of light.
Other shapes, like Cushion, Radiant, or Princess cuts, can also display significant fire, depending on the cut and facet arrangement.
Shapes with fewer facets, such as Emerald or Asscher, tend to show more of the white light (brilliance) than fire.
Quality of the Diamond:

Higher-quality diamonds, particularly those with fewer inclusions and better clarity grades, will show more fire.
A clean diamond (with minimal or no inclusions) allows light to pass through freely and more evenly, enhancing its fire.
Light Source:

The environmental lighting affects how fire is perceived. For example, diamonds show more fire under bright, direct light or artificial light sources like halogen lamps, which increase the rainbow-like dispersion.
Natural sunlight often brings out the full range of fire in a diamond.
Why Fire is Important
Visual Appeal:

Fire contributes to the sparkling effect of a diamond, making it more vibrant and eye-catching. The play of colors—especially under direct light—is what makes a diamond seem alive and dynamic.
Brilliance and Aesthetic:

Fire works in harmony with brilliance, which is the white light a diamond reflects. Together, brilliance and fire create the liveliness and beauty of a diamond.
Value:

Diamonds that display more fire are generally more desirable because they are seen as more brilliant and beautiful. Well-cut diamonds that demonstrate a high level of fire can also fetch higher prices in the market.
How to Maximize Fire in a Diamond
Opt for an Ideal or Excellent Cut: A diamond with a top-tier cut will maximize fire, as the angles and proportions will be optimized to reflect and disperse light.
Look for Brilliance and Fire Combined: Ideal diamonds balance fire and brilliance, creating a dynamic and captivating sparkle.
Choose White Light to Enhance Fire: Certain lighting conditions can enhance the fire within a diamond. Direct sunlight and halogen lighting are best for showcasing a diamond’s colorful dispersion.
Conclusion: The Beauty of Fire in a Diamond
Fire is one of the most mesmerizing qualities of a diamond, making it sparkle with vibrant colors. It’s influenced by a combination of the diamond’s cut, shape, clarity, and the lighting under which it is viewed. Whether you’re choosing a diamond for an engagement ring or for investment, understanding the impact of fire will help you appreciate the stone’s brilliance and beauty.

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Finish

Diamond Finish: What It Means & Why It Matters

Diamond Finish: What It Means & Why It Matters
Diamond finish refers to the overall quality of the diamond’s cut, polish, and symmetry. These factors affect how well a diamond reflects light, its brilliance, and its overall appearance. A well-finished diamond will display greater sparkle and beauty, while a poorly finished diamond may look dull or lackluster.

Components of Diamond Finish
Cut Quality

The cut of a diamond is its most important characteristic because it directly affects its ability to sparkle and reflect light. The cut refers to how well the diamond has been shaped, and how the facets have been arranged and polished.

Cut Quality Grade (according to DCLA):

Excellent
Very Good
Good
Fair
Poor
A diamond with an Excellent cut will have the best balance of brilliance, fire, and scintillation. A diamond that’s cut poorly may not reflect light as effectively and could appear dark or lackluster.

Polish

Polish refers to the smoothness of the diamond’s surface after it has been cut. It is an essential part of the finish, as any scratches or blemishes on the surface can disrupt the diamond’s ability to reflect light.

Polish Quality is graded on a scale:

Excellent
Very Good
Good
Fair
Poor
A poorly polished diamond may have visible imperfections that can affect its brilliance, while an excellent polish enhances the diamond’s shine.

Symmetry

Symmetry refers to how well the facets align with each other, and the overall shape of the diamond. If the facets are not aligned perfectly, it can create visual distortions or affect the diamond’s brilliance.

Symmetry Quality is graded as:

Excellent
Very Good
Good
Fair
Poor
A symmetrical diamond ensures that light is evenly reflected, enhancing the stone’s brilliance.

How Finish Affects Diamond Appearance
Brilliance: A diamond with a good finish will reflect light more efficiently, creating a brighter and more sparkly stone. A poor finish, such as a poor cut or bad polish, can dull the diamond’s sparkle.
Light Performance: A well-finished diamond will show excellent light performance, including brightness (white light), fire (colour dispersion), and scintillation (sparkle).
Value: A diamond with a higher-quality finish is generally more valuable because it shows off the diamond’s natural qualities to their best advantage.
How to Identify a Well-Finished Diamond
Check the Certificate:
Look at the grading report from a reputable gemological laboratory (e.g., DCLA, GIA, AGS). The report will include grades for cut, polish, and symmetry.

Examine the Diamond:

Use magnification (10x jeweller’s loupe) to inspect the polish for any surface blemishes.
Check the symmetry by observing how well the facets align with each other.
Consider the Cut Grade:

Ideal/Excellent cut diamonds will generally have a superior finish in terms of polish and symmetry.
Fair or Poor cut diamonds may have visible defects and may not be as well-polished or symmetrical.

The Importance of Diamond Finish
A well-finished diamond is essential for maximising its visual appeal and value. The finish affects how light interacts with the diamond and directly influences the amount of brilliance and fire it exhibits. Whether you are selecting a diamond for an engagement ring or as an investment, ensuring a high-quality cut, polish, and symmetry will ensure you receive a stone that displays its full beauty.

Would you like help evaluating the finish of a specific diamond or understanding how it can impact the overall appearance?

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Fancy Shape

Fancy Shape Diamonds: Beyond the Round Brilliant

Fancy Shape Diamonds: Beyond the Round Brilliant
A fancy shape diamond is any diamond cut other than Round Brilliant. These shapes offer unique aesthetics, individuality, and often better value per carat than round diamonds.

Popular Fancy Diamond Shapes & Features
Shape Facets Key Features Best For
Princess Cut 58-76 Sharp corners, modern brilliance Contemporary engagement rings
Cushion Cut 58-64 Rounded corners, vintage charm Classic & romantic settings
Oval Cut 57-58 Elongated for a slimming effect Maximizing finger coverage
Emerald Cut 50-58 Step-cut, hall-of-mirrors effect Elegant, sophisticated look
Radiant Cut 70 Hybrid of step and brilliant cuts Maximum brilliance in a rectangular shape
Asscher Cut 50-58 Square step-cut, deep clarity Vintage style, Art Deco appeal
Marquise Cut 58 Boat-shaped, elongates fingers Unique & dramatic settings
Pear Cut 58 Teardrop shape, combines round & marquise Unique & elegant engagement rings
Heart Cut 56-58 Romantic, requires perfect symmetry Sentimental & statement jewellery
Trillion Cut 31-50 Triangular, high brilliance Side stones or unique centre stones
Why Choose a Fancy Shape Diamond?
Better Value – Fancy shapes cost 20-40% less per carat than round diamonds.
Unique Look – Stand out with a distinctive, non-traditional shape.
Larger Appearance – Some cuts (Oval, Marquise, Pear) look bigger than a round of the same carat weight.
Historical & Modern Appeal – From vintage Asschers to contemporary Princess cuts.

Cut Quality in Fancy Shapes
Unlike Round Brilliants, fancy shapes don’t have a standardized cut grade from GIA or DCLA. Instead, look for:
Well-balanced proportions – Avoid overly deep or shallow cuts.
Symmetry & Polish – Essential for sparkle and light performance.
Length-to-Width Ratio – Determines how the shape appears (e.g., elongated vs. square Cushion Cut).

Most Brilliant Fancy Shapes (Maximum Sparkle)
Princess – Second only to Round Brilliant in sparkle.
Oval – Brilliant-cut facets for high fire & brilliance.
Radiant – Intense sparkle with a rectangular shape.
Marquise & Pear – Brilliant-cut facets with elongation.

Best Fancy Shapes for Finger Slimming Effect
Oval, Marquise, and Pear – Create an illusion of longer fingers.
Emerald & Asscher – Sleek, elegant elongation.

Fancy Shapes & Bowtie Effect
Some fancy shapes (Oval, Marquise, Pear, and some Cushions) can exhibit a “bowtie effect”—a dark shadow across the centre of the diamond due to poor light reflection.
Avoid deep bowties by choosing a well-proportioned cut.

Which Fancy Shape is Right for You?
For Maximum Sparkle: Princess, Radiant, Oval
For Vintage Elegance: Emerald, Asscher, Cushion
For a Unique Look: Marquise, Pear, Heart, Trillion
For Best Finger Coverage: Oval, Marquise, Pear

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Feathers

Feather in a Diamond: What It Means & Its Impact on Clarity
A feather in a diamond refers to a type of inclusion that resembles a small crack or fracture within the stone. It is a common term used in diamond grading, and it plays an important role in the diamond’s clarity.

What is a Feather?
Feathers are essentially internal cracks or fractures that can occur naturally during the diamond’s formation or from external pressure after the diamond is mined.
The term “feather” is used because the inclusion often looks like a branching or “feathery” structure under magnification.
Feather in Diamond Clarity Grading
The presence of a feather can affect a diamond’s clarity grade, but not all feathers are equal. Here’s how a feather impacts grading:

Clarity Grade Description Impact of Feather
Flawless (FL) No inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification. No feathers.
Internally Flawless (IF) No inclusions visible under 10x magnification; only minor blemishes. No feathers.
Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1, VVS2) Minute inclusions that are very difficult to detect under 10x magnification. Feathers may be present but hard to find.
Very Slightly Included (VS1, VS2) Minor inclusions visible under 10x magnification. Feathers may be visible but typically not easily seen with the naked eye.
Slightly Included (SI1, SI2) Inclusions visible under 10x magnification and possibly to the naked eye. Feathers may be visible to the naked eye in lower clarity grades.
Included (I1, I2, I3) Inclusions visible to the naked eye, affecting transparency and brilliance. Feathers likely visible and may impact the diamond’s appearance.
How Do Feathers Affect a Diamond’s Appearance?
Location of the Feather:

Near the centre of the diamond can have a more noticeable impact on brilliance.
On the edges or girdle may not be as visible and have less impact on appearance.
Size of the Feather:

Small feathers may be negligible and have little effect on the diamond’s brilliance or beauty.
Larger feathers may disrupt the diamond’s light performance or cause a visible flaw.
Transparency:

Some feathers can cause a cloudy or milky appearance, impacting the diamond’s overall sparkle.
Are Feathers Dangerous?
Feathers can affect the structural integrity of a diamond, especially if they are large or extend to the surface. However, many diamonds with small feathers are still quite strong and durable. A feather that reaches the girdle (outer edge) or surface can make the diamond more vulnerable to breaking or chipping if not handled carefully.

How to Minimize the Impact of Feathers
Check the Location: Ensure the feather is not near the surface or the girdle, as these areas are more likely to be prone to damage.
Choose Smaller Feathers: Opt for diamonds with small, isolated feathers that do not significantly impact clarity.
Magnification Review: Always inspect the diamond under 10x magnification to assess the feather’s size and impact.

Are Feathers Always a Dealbreaker?
Not necessarily. Many diamonds with small, well-placed feathers still retain their brilliance, especially if the feathers are near the centre or on the pavilion and not on the surface. If the feather is not visible to the naked eye, it often does not affect the overall aesthetic or investment value significantly.

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Faceted Girdle

Faceted Girdle in a Diamond
A faceted girdle in a diamond refers to a girdle that has been polished and cut into small facets, rather than left rough or bruted. This technique enhances the diamond’s overall appearance, improves light performance, and contributes to a higher symmetry grade.

What is the Girdle?
The girdle is the outer edge of a diamond, separating the crown (top) from the pavilion (bottom). It can vary in thickness and finish, impacting both durability and light reflection.

Types of Girdles in Diamonds
Girdle Type Description Common in
Faceted Girdle Polished with small, flat surfaces (facets) to enhance brilliance. High-quality diamonds, modern cuts.
Bruted Girdle Unpolished, frosted appearance, created using traditional bruting techniques. Older-cut diamonds, some industrial diamonds.
Polished Girdle Smooth, highly polished, without facets. Step-cut diamonds (Emerald, Asscher).
Benefits of a Faceted Girdle
Improves Light Performance – Helps reduce light leakage by allowing better refraction.
Enhances Symmetry & Proportions – Adds precision to the diamond’s cut.
Eliminates a Frosty Look – Unlike bruted girdles, faceted girdles appear more refined and modern.
Common in High-Quality Diamonds – Many GIA, DCLA, and IGI-certified diamonds feature faceted girdles.

Does a Faceted Girdle Affect Value?
A faceted girdle does not significantly change a diamond’s value but contributes to its overall aesthetic appeal and symmetry rating. It is often preferred in Round Brilliant, Cushion, and Oval diamonds, while step-cut diamonds like Emerald and Asscher may have a polished girdle instead.

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Fancy Colour

Fancy Coloured Diamonds

Fancy Coloured Diamonds: Rarity, Value & Beauty
Fancy coloured diamonds are natural diamonds that exhibit intense colours beyond the typical white or colourless range. Unlike traditional diamonds graded on a D-to-Z colour scale (where lower grades indicate yellow or brown tints), fancy colour diamonds are valued for their saturation and rarity.

How Do Fancy Coloured Diamonds Get Their Colour?
Chemical Elements & Impurities

Nitrogen → Yellow & Orange Diamonds
Boron → Blue Diamonds
Hydrogen → Violet Diamonds
Crystal Lattice Distortions

Pink & Red Diamonds – Result from pressure-related distortions in the diamond’s atomic structure.
Green Diamonds – Exposed to natural radiation over millions of years.
Graphite & Other Inclusions

Black Diamonds (Carbonado) – Have numerous graphite or sulphide inclusions, giving them an opaque black appearance.
Types of Fancy Coloured Diamonds
Colour Cause of Colour Rarity Famous Examples
Pink Lattice distortion Extremely rare The Pink Star, Argyle Pink Diamonds
Red Lattice distortion Rarest of all The Moussaieff Red Diamond
Blue Boron impurity Very rare The Hope Diamond, The Blue Moon Diamond
Green Natural radiation exposure Rare The Dresden Green Diamond
Yellow Nitrogen impurity Common The Tiffany Yellow Diamond
Orange High nitrogen levels Very rare The Pumpkin Diamond
Purple Hydrogen impurity Rare The Supreme Purple Star
Brown (Champagne & Cognac) Structural defects Common Argyle Champagne Diamonds
Black Graphite inclusions Common The Black Orlov Diamond
White (Fancy White) Cloudy internal inclusions Rare The White Swan Diamond
How Fancy Colour Diamonds Are Graded?
Unlike colourless diamonds, fancy coloured diamonds are graded based on three main factors:

Hue – The primary colour (e.g., blue, pink, yellow).
Tone – Lightness or darkness of the colour.
Saturation – Intensity and strength of the colour (higher saturation means higher value).
GIA Fancy Colour Scale
Faint
Very Light
Light
Fancy Light
Fancy
Fancy Intense
Fancy Vivid (Highest value)
For example, a Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond is far more valuable than a Fancy Light Pink Diamond due to its stronger colour saturation.

Why Are Fancy Colour Diamonds So Valuable?
Extreme Rarity – Only 1 in 10,000 diamonds is a fancy colour diamond.
High Investment Value – Certain colours (Pink, Red, Blue, Green) appreciate over time.
Unique Beauty – Each coloured diamond is one of a kind.
Celebrity & Historical Demand – Famous diamonds increase awareness and desirability.

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Facets

Diamond Facets: Understanding the Cut & Light Performance
A facet is a flat, polished surface on a diamond that interacts with light to create brilliance, fire, and scintillation. The number, arrangement, and angles of these facets determine how well a diamond reflects and refracts light.

Types of Facets in a Diamond
A brilliant-cut diamond (such as a Round Brilliant) typically has 57 or 58 facets, depending on whether the culet is faceted. These facets are grouped into different sections:

Table Facet – The largest and central facet on the crown, responsible for most of the light entering the diamond.
Crown Facets – The upper portion of the diamond, including:
Star Facets (8) – Surround the table and direct light into the diamond.
Bezel Facets (8) – Kite-shaped facets between the star and upper girdle facets.
Upper Girdle Facets (16) – Connect the bezel facets to the girdle.
Girdle Facets – The outer edge, which may be bruted, polished, or faceted.
Pavilion Facets – The lower half of the diamond, responsible for light reflection, including:
Lower Girdle Facets (16) – Extend from the girdle down to the pavilion main facets.
Pavilion Main Facets (8) – Larger facets that control the return of light.
Culet Facet (Optional) – A tiny facet at the very bottom of the diamond (if present).
Facet Count in Different Diamond Cuts
Diamond Cut Number of Facets Key Features
Round Brilliant 57 or 58 Maximized brilliance & fire.
Princess Cut 58–76 Sharp corners, modern appeal.
Cushion Cut 58–64 Soft, rounded shape with vintage charm.
Emerald Cut 50–58 Step-cut, mirrors effect, less brilliance.
Oval Cut 57–58 Elongated brilliance, hides inclusions well.
Marquise Cut 58 Elegant, boat-shaped cut.
Pear Cut 58 Teardrop shape with brilliant facets.
Radiant Cut 70 Hybrid of step and brilliant cut.
Asscher Cut 50–58 Square step-cut with deep clarity.
Heart Cut 56–58 Romantic shape, requires symmetry.
Why Are Facets Important?
Brilliance – Facets control how light enters and exits the diamond, creating sparkle.
Fire – Well-angled facets disperse light into a spectrum of colors.
Scintillation – Facets create a contrast of light and dark patterns, enhancing visual appeal.
Cut Quality – The precision of facet arrangement impacts a diamond’s GIA Cut Grade (Excellent to Poor).

Faceted Girdle vs. Polished Girdle vs. Bruted Girdle
Faceted Girdle – Small, polished facets along the girdle to improve light performance.
Polished Girdle – Smooth and shiny, common in step-cut diamonds like Emerald and Asscher.
Bruted Girdle – Frosty or rough, found in older or unpolished diamonds.

1 Table

2 Bezel facets

3 Star Facets

4 Upper-Girdle Facet

5 Lower-Girdle Facets

6 Pavilion Main Facets

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Eye-Visible

Inclusions are often visible to the naked eye.

Eye-Visible Inclusions in Diamonds
An eye-visible inclusion in a diamond refers to an internal flaw or imperfection that can be seen with the naked eye, without the need for magnification. These inclusions can affect the diamond’s appearance, brilliance, and value, making clarity an essential factor when selecting a diamond.

Common Types of Eye-Visible Inclusions
Black Carbon Spots – Dark inclusions that stand out against the diamond’s transparency.
Feathers – Internal cracks that can weaken the diamond and be visible if large or positioned near the surface.
Clouds – Groups of tiny inclusions that create a hazy or milky appearance.
Crystals & Mineral Inclusions – Embedded natural crystals (can be white, black, or colored) visible within the diamond.
Pinpoints – Small white or black spots that, when clustered, can be noticeable.
Needles – Long, thin, needle-like inclusions that may reflect light.
Knots – Inclusions that reach the surface, sometimes appearing as bumps or rough areas.
Cavities – Small holes on the surface of the diamond, sometimes filled with foreign material.

Should You Buy a Diamond with Eye-Visible Inclusions?
For budget-conscious buyers: A well-placed SI1 inclusion can be a great value choice.
For engagement rings or investment pieces: Avoid visible inclusions, as they impact beauty and resale value.
For everyday wear: Ensure inclusions don’t weaken the diamond’s structure.
Would you like help selecting a diamond that looks flawless to the eye while staying within budget?

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Eye-Clean

Eye-Clean Diamond: Understanding Clarity

Eye-Clean Diamond: Understanding Clarity
An eye-clean diamond refers to a diamond that has no visible inclusions or blemishes when viewed with the naked eye from a standard viewing distance (about 15–30 cm). This term is important in diamond clarity grading, as it helps buyers choose diamonds that appear flawless without the high cost of an internally flawless (IF) or very high-clarity grade stone.

Key Factors in Eye-Clean Diamonds
Diamond Clarity Grades & Eye-Clean Standards

FL (Flawless) & IF (Internally Flawless) – Always eye-clean (no inclusions even under magnification).
VVS1 & VVS2 (Very, Very Slightly Included) – Essentially eye-clean, with inclusions only visible under 10x magnification.
VS1 & VS2 (Very Slightly Included) – Generally eye-clean, with VS2 possibly showing inclusions in larger stones (2.00+ carats).
SI1 (Slightly Included 1) – May be eye-clean, but some stones might have visible inclusions. Careful selection is needed.
SI2 & I1 (Included 1) – Typically not eye-clean; inclusions are often visible without magnification.
I2 & I3 (Heavily Included) – Clearly visible inclusions that affect beauty and durability.
Size & Location of Inclusions

Inclusions near the edges (girdle) are less noticeable than those under the table (center of the diamond).
White or faint inclusions (like feathers or clouds) blend better than dark or black inclusions.
Smaller diamonds (under 1.00 ct) tend to be more eye-clean at lower clarity grades than larger diamonds.
Diamond Cut & Brilliance

Brilliant cuts (Round, Cushion, Princess, Radiant) can mask inclusions due to their sparkle.
Step cuts (Emerald, Asscher) reveal inclusions more easily because of their open faceting style.

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Extra Facet

Extra Facet in a Diamond
An extra facet in a diamond is an additional facet that is not part of the standard faceting pattern. These extra facets are typically unintended and can affect the diamond’s symmetry and overall appearance.

Causes of Extra Facets
Polishing Adjustments: Sometimes, extra facets are added during polishing to remove inclusions or surface blemishes.
Damage Repair: If a diamond has a small chip, an extra facet may be placed to smooth out the flaw.
Cutting Errors: Occurs when a cutter mistakenly places an additional facet that is not required by the ideal facet arrangement.
Intentional Artistic Choice: In rare cases, an extra facet may be added to enhance the diamond’s light performance.
Impact on Diamond Quality
Symmetry Grade Reduction – Extra facets can lower a diamond’s symmetry grade, affecting its overall cut rating.
Less Noticeable on the Pavilion – If the extra facet is placed on the pavilion (bottom part), it may not impact the diamond’s face-up appearance.
More Visible on the Crown or Table – If the extra facet is near the table (top surface), it can affect light reflection and reduce brilliance.

Effect on Value – While minor extra facets may have little effect on price, larger or poorly placed ones can decrease a diamond’s value.

How to Identify an Extra Facet?
Found in a diamond grading report, usually noted under clarity characteristics.
Labeled as “Extra Facet” on certification reports from GIA, DCLA, IGI, HRD, etc.
Visible under 10x magnification or a jeweller’s loupe.
Should You Buy a Diamond with an Extra Facet?
If it’s on the pavilion and doesn’t affect brilliance, it’s usually acceptable.
If it’s on the crown or table, consider how much it affects symmetry and light performance.
Always check the diamond certification report and inspect the diamond in different lighting conditions before purchasing.

An extra facet is an additional, unplanned facet on a diamond that is not part of the standard faceting pattern. It is usually added to remove a small inclusion, blemish, or natural rough spot without significantly altering the diamond’s symmetry.