India Differentiates Synthetics Imports

Lab grown rough diamond

India has introduced an import classification code solely for lab-grown rough diamonds, enabling the industry to keep better watch of synthetics entering the country.

The government has separated the Indian Trade Clarification (ITC) code for rough synthetic gemstones into diamonds and non-diamonds, the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) reported last week. The move will help organizations such as the GJEPC track the precise quantities of lab-grown diamonds coming into the market, explained Colin Shah, the council’s vice chairman.

Previously, all rough synthetic gemstones carried the same Indian import code — 71042000 — whether they were man-made diamonds or other stones. From now on, rough lab-grown diamonds will fall into 71042010, while other rough synthetic stones will be assigned 71042090. Trade data for the two categories is likely to be available starting in August, the GJEPC said. Natural rough diamonds will retain their code of 71023100.

ITC codes are unique numbers for each type of product, and are based on the international Harmonized System (HS) of codes. The government announced the change in last week’s Union Budget, following lobbying by the GJEPC.

“This will go a long way in strengthening the efforts of the council to monitor the two pipelines and maintain their integrity,” said GJEPC chairman Pramod Agrawal.

India already has the distinction for polished: Synthetic diamonds carry the ITC code 71049010, while other polished synthetic gemstones are labeled 71049090. However, until now, the GJEPC has chosen not to publish the official trade figures for synthetic diamonds in its monthly data release, instead providing one total for all synthetic polished gemstones, including diamonds, and an equivalent for rough. It’s in the process of changing its reporting methods, and will soon publicize the whole range of available data across rough and polished, it confirmed.

India is one of the first countries to keep close tabs on lab-grown trading, the GJEPC claimed. China already has a similar distinction for its import codes, while the European Union will adopt a Combined Nomenclature (CN) customs code for synthetic diamonds on January 1, 2020, the GJEPC added. Australia and Russia are likely to follow suit, it noted.

The budget — the country’s first since the reelection of Prime Minister Narendra Modi — also saw the introduction of an online service enabling small and medium-sized enterprises to obtain loans of up to INR 10 million ($146,000) within 59 minutes. The government will allocate INR 3.5 billion ($51 million) to subsidize interest repayments for companies of that size that are registered for the nation’s goods and services tax. The initiatives are open to a range of industries, including jewelry.

Additionally, the government will charge a 2% “tax deducted at source” on cash withdrawals exceeding INR 10 million ($146,000) to discourage cash payment for business purposes.

Source: Diamonds.net

De Beers to Sell Diamonds Made in a Lab

De Beers to Sell Diamonds Made in a Laboratory

De Beers, which almost single handedly created the allure of diamonds as rare, expensive and the symbol of eternal love, now wants to sell you some party jewelry that is anything but.

The company announced today that it will start selling man-made diamond jewelry at a fraction of the price of mined gems, marking a historic shift for the world’s biggest diamond miner, which vowed for years that it wouldn’t sell stones created in laboratories. The strategy is designed to undercut rival lab-diamond makers, who having been trying to make inroads into the $80 billion gem industry.

De Beers will target younger spenders with its new diamond brand and try to capture customers that have been resistant to splurging on expensive jewelry. The company is betting that it can split the market with mined gems in luxury settings and engagement rings at the top, and lab-made fashion jewelry aimed at millennials at the bottom.

“Lab grown are not special, they’re not real, they’re not unique. You can make exactly the same one again and again,” Bruce Cleaver, chief executive officer of De Beers, said in an interview Tuesday.

Unlike imitation gems such as cubic zirconia, diamonds grown in labs have the same physical characteristics and chemical makeup as mined stones. They’re made from a carbon seed placed in a microwave chamber and superheated into a glowing plasma ball. The process creates particles that can eventually crystallize into diamonds in weeks. The technology is so advanced that experts need a machine to distinguish between synthesized and mined gems.

A host of lab-grown diamond makers and retailers have sprung up in recent years. Diamond Foundry, one of the biggest producers, grows diamonds in a California laboratory and has been backed by Leonardo DiCaprio. Warren Buffett’s Helzberg’s Diamond Shops Inc. also sells the stones.

Customers are currently “confused” by the difference between mined and lab-produced diamonds, Cleaver said. De Beers is hoping to create big price gap with its new product, which will sell under the name Lightbox in the U.S. A 1-carat man-made diamond sells for about $4,000 and a similar natural diamond fetches roughly $8,000. The lab diamonds from De Beers will sell for about $800 a carat.

Lowest Cost

Still, De Beers says that its move isn’t to disrupt existing lab-diamond producers, but create a small, profitable business in its own right.

“Given we are the lowest-cost producer, we can make a good business out of this,” Cleaver said. “We have the tools, why wouldn’t we do this?”

De Beers is so adamant that the man-made diamonds are not competing with mined stones that it will not grade them in the traditional way. That’s a stark contrast to current man-made sellers who offer ratings such as clarity and color, replicating terminology used for natural stones.

“We’re not grading our lab-grown diamonds because we don’t think they deserve to be graded,” Cleaver said. “They’re all the same.”

The pricing strategy will also be different. De Beers plans to charge $200 for a quarter-carat, $400 for a half and $800 for a carat, another sharp break from natural stones that rise exponentially in price the bigger the diamond gets.

Man-Made Gems

While De Beers has never sold man-made diamonds for jewelry before, it’s very good at making them. The company’s Element Six unit is one of the world’s leading producers of synthetic diamonds, which are mostly used for industrial purposes. It has also been producing gem-quality stones for years to help it tell the difference between natural and man-made types and to reassure consumers that they’re buying the real thing.

Man-made gems currently make up a small part of the diamond market, but demand is increasing. Global diamond production was about 142 million carats last year, according to analyst Paul Zimnisky. That compares with lab production of less than 4.2 million carats, according to Bonas & Co.

De Beers has been researching lab-made diamonds since the end of World War II and accelerated its work after a Swedish company synthesized the first diamond in 1953. The company has focused on lab diamonds for industrial uses, but also kept investing in technology for jewelry-grade gems.

The shift to lab-diamond jewelry comes at a sensitive time for De Beers and its relationship with Botswana, the source of three quarters of its diamonds. The two have a sales agreement that lets the company market and sell gems from Botswana, giving De Beers its power over global prices. The deal will soon be up for negotiation and Botswana is likely to push for more concessions.

On Tuesday, De Beers said it had extensive talks with Botswana about the decision to sell man-made diamonds and the country supports the move.

Source: bloomberg.com

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