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Graining

The Natural Growth Patterns in Diamonds
Graining refers to faint wavy, hazy, oily, or shadow-like lines that can appear inside a diamond or on its surface. These patterns result from irregular growth and crystallisation during the diamond’s natural formation deep within the Earth. Graining is sometimes referred to as “growth lines” or “growth marks”, and it can affect a diamond’s clarity, transparency, and overall visual appearance.

What Causes Graining in Diamonds?
Diamonds form over millions to billions of years under extreme heat and pressure deep in the Earth’s mantle. However, not all diamonds grow perfectly. Occasionally, crystallographic irregularities occur, leading to graining. These irregularities may be caused by:

Uneven atomic growth – Fluctuations in temperature and pressure can cause the diamond’s crystal structure to develop inconsistencies.
Interrupted crystallisation – When a diamond pauses in its growth and then resumes, it may form internal distortions.
Mineral inclusions or impurities – Elements such as nitrogen or boron present during formation can contribute to the development of visible graining.

Types of Graining in Diamonds
Graining can appear in various forms, affecting both internal clarity and surface quality. The four main types of graining are:

1. Internal Graining
Appears as faint lines, streaks, or wispy distortions within the diamond.
Can be colourless, white, brown, or reflective.
Sometimes mistaken for inclusions but differs as it follows the diamond’s crystal structure rather than being a foreign substance.
2. Surface Graining
Found on the external facets of the diamond.
Can resemble polishing marks, light scratches, or subtle indentations.
May not be visible to the naked eye but can be detected under 10x magnification.
3. Reflective Graining
A more pronounced form of internal graining where light reflects off the growth lines, making them more noticeable.
Can create a slightly hazy or cloudy appearance in certain lighting conditions.
4. Coloured or Dark Graining
Caused by trace elements within the diamond or due to strain in the crystal structure.
Can appear as brown, grey, or dark shadow-like lines.
More commonly found in diamonds with strong fluorescence or high nitrogen content.
How Does Graining Affect a Diamond’s Appearance and Value?
Impact on Clarity

Internal graining can be noted on a grading report, particularly in diamonds with VS (Very Slightly Included) clarity or lower.
If graining is very faint, it may not impact the clarity grade but could still be mentioned in the report.
Impact on Transparency & Brilliance

Strong graining can cause the diamond to appear milky, hazy, or oily, reducing its transparency.
It may affect the way light travels through the diamond, diminishing brilliance and fire.
Impact on Diamond Grading Reports

Independent gemological laboratories such as DCLA, GIA, and IGI may list graining as a comment in the clarity characteristics section of a diamond grading report.
If graining is significant, it may contribute to a lower clarity grade.
Impact on Value

Diamonds with minor or faint graining typically do not experience a significant drop in value.
However, diamonds with heavy graining or visible haziness may be less desirable and priced lower than those with better transparency.
How to Identify Graining in a Diamond
Graining is often invisible to the naked eye but can be detected through:

10x Magnification – Jewelers and gemologists use a loupe or microscope to identify fine growth lines.
Diamond Grading Reports – If present, graining will be noted in the report’s clarity characteristics section.
Lighting Tests – Shining a bright light through the diamond may reveal hazy areas or faint wavy lines.

Can Graining Be Removed or Minimized?
Recutting & Repolishing – Surface graining may be improved by polishing or re-cutting the diamond, but this reduces carat weight.
Proper Cleaning & Maintenance – A clean diamond can help reduce the visual impact of light surface graining.
Choosing a Well-Cut Diamond – A diamond with excellent cut proportions can help mask minor graining by maximizing brilliance.

Is Graining a Dealbreaker When Buying a Diamond?
Not necessarily. Mild or faint graining has little to no impact on a diamond’s overall beauty, especially if it is only visible under magnification. However, strong graining that affects transparency and brilliance may be a concern.

Always check the grading report and view the diamond in person before purchasing. If you are unsure, consult with a certified gemologist or independent diamond expert for a professional opinion.

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Green Diamond

Green Diamond: A Rare and Unique Natural Treasure

A Rare and Unique Natural Treasure
A green diamond is a diamond that exhibits a natural green body colour, making it one of the rarest and most sought-after coloured diamonds in the world. For a diamond to be classified as a true green diamond, green must be the dominant hue, although it may have secondary modifying tones of yellow, blue, or grey.

These remarkable diamonds owe their distinctive green hue to exposure to natural radiation deep within the Earth’s crust over millions of years. The radiation interacts with the diamond’s atomic structure, creating unique structural defects that result in its green coloration. Because of the highly specific and rare conditions required for their formation, natural green diamonds are exceptionally rare and valuable.

Formation of Natural Green Diamonds
Unlike most coloured diamonds, which owe their colour to trace elements (such as boron in blue diamonds or nitrogen in yellow diamonds), green diamonds derive their colour from natural irradiation.

How it Happens:

Natural Radiation Exposure: Over millions of years, the diamond is exposed to radioactive minerals such as uranium or thorium in the Earth’s crust.
Structural Alterations: The radiation disrupts the arrangement of carbon atoms in the diamond’s crystal lattice, creating a “radiation-induced colour centre.”
Absorption of Light: These defects allow the diamond to absorb red and yellow light, making the diamond appear green to the human eye.
Key Fact: The green colour usually forms on the surface of the rough diamond, which means that careful cutting is required to preserve the colour in the final polished gem.

Shades & Intensity of Green Diamonds
Like all fancy-coloured diamonds, green diamonds are graded based on hue, tone, and saturation. The most valuable green diamonds have a pure green hue with strong saturation. However, many natural green diamonds exhibit secondary modifying tones that affect their final colour.

Green Diamond Colour Classifications:
Colour Name Description Common Secondary Hues
Fancy Light Green Soft, pastel green colour Yellow, Grey
Fancy Green True green with medium saturation Yellow, Blue
Fancy Intense Green Vibrant, rich green hue Blue, Yellow
Fancy Vivid Green Deep, highly saturated green Minimal or No Modifying Tones
Fancy Deep Green Darker green with strong depth Grey, Yellow
The rarest and most valuable green diamonds are those with a strong, pure green hue and minimal secondary modifiers.

Famous Green Diamonds
Due to their rarity, natural green diamonds have become legendary in the world of gemstones. Some of the most famous examples include:

The Dresden Green Diamond (41.00 ct)

One of the most famous and largest natural green diamonds in existence.
Weighing 41.00 carats, it exhibits a pure green colour with exceptional clarity.
Believed to have originated in India, it is now housed in Germany’s Green Vault museum.
The Aurora Green Diamond (5.03 ct)

The largest Fancy Vivid Green diamond ever auctioned.
Sold for $16.8 million at Christie’s in 2016.
The Ocean Dream Diamond (5.51 ct)

A unique blue-green diamond with a distinctive Fancy Deep Blue-Green colour.
Exhibits a combination of radiation exposure and boron content.
The Chopard Green Diamond (10.02 ct)

A Fancy Intense Green diamond set in a ring by Chopard.
One of the most valuable green diamonds in the world.
How Are Green Diamonds Graded?
Green diamonds are graded based on the 4Cs (Carat, Colour, Clarity, and Cut), with special emphasis on colour intensity.

Hue: The primary colour must be green, though modifying hues like yellow, blue, or grey may be present.
Tone: Determines how light or dark the green appears.
Saturation: The strength or intensity of the green hue—more saturated stones are more valuable.

Laboratories like the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and DCLA (Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia) provide certificates to verify a green diamond’s natural origin.

Treated vs. Natural Green Diamonds
Because natural green diamonds are incredibly rare, some diamonds undergo treatments to enhance or artificially create a green hue. These treatments include:

Radiation Treatment – Exposing diamonds to artificial radiation to mimic natural colouration.
HPHT (High Pressure, High Temperature) Processing – Alters the internal structure to change colour.
Coating – Applying a thin layer of green material to the diamond’s surface.
Key Buyer’s Tip: Always verify that a green diamond’s colour is natural by requesting a grading report from an independent, recognised gemological laboratory (such as DCLA or GIA).

Are Green Diamonds a Good Investment?
Extreme Rarity – Natural green diamonds are among the rarest coloured diamonds, making them highly desirable.
High Market Demand – Prices for Fancy Vivid Green diamonds have consistently increased over time.
Auction Record Breakers – Green diamonds regularly fetch millions at auctions.

The most valuable green diamonds are Fancy Intense or Fancy Vivid Green with minimal secondary hues and strong saturation.

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Grading Report

Grading Report: The Blueprint of a Diamond's Quality

Grading Report: The Blueprint of a Diamond’s Quality
A grading report, also known as a diamond certificate, is an official document issued by a recognised and independent diamond grading laboratory. It provides a detailed, unbiased assessment of a diamond’s characteristics based on internationally accepted grading standards.

This report plays a critical role in determining a diamond’s quality, authenticity, and market value, allowing buyers, sellers, and investors to make informed decisions.

What is Included in a Diamond Grading Report?
A diamond grading report contains a comprehensive analysis of a diamond’s physical and optical properties. The following elements are typically included:

1. Identification Details
Report Number – A unique serial number assigned to the diamond, used for tracking and verification.
Date of Examination – The date the diamond was graded.
Laboratory Name & Logo – Ensures authenticity and trustworthiness of the certification body (e.g., DCLA, GIA, IGI, HRD).
2. The 4Cs of Diamond Grading
Carat Weight – The diamond’s exact weight, measured to the nearest hundredth of a carat.
Cut Grade – Evaluates the diamond’s proportions, symmetry, and polish, impacting its brilliance and fire.
Colour Grade – Determines how colourless the diamond is, graded on a scale from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow/brown).
Clarity Grade – Assesses internal inclusions and surface blemishes, ranging from Flawless (FL) to Included (I3).
3. Additional Diamond Characteristics
Shape & Cutting Style – Specifies the diamond’s shape (e.g., round, princess, oval) and cut style.
Measurements – Precise dimensions of the diamond, including diameter, table size, and depth.
Girdle Thickness – Evaluates the diamond’s girdle proportion (thin, medium, thick).
Culet Size – Determines if the bottom facet (culet) is pointed, small, or large.
Polish & Symmetry – Rates how well the diamond’s facets are cut and aligned, affecting its sparkle.
Fluorescence – Indicates if the diamond emits a glow under UV light, rated from None to Strong.
4. Diamond Proportions & Light Performance
Proportion Diagram – A detailed illustration showing the diamond’s exact cut proportions.
Light Performance Analysis (in some reports) – Shows how effectively the diamond reflects light.
5. Clarity Characteristics Plot (Inclusion Map)
A diagram indicating the type, location, and size of inclusions or blemishes.
Helps identify the diamond and distinguish it from others.
6. Comments & Additional Features
Any unique observations about the diamond, such as laser inscriptions or special cutting techniques.
7. Security Features & Verification
Some reports contain laser-engraved serial numbers on the girdle for easy identification.
Advanced security features like holograms, QR codes, and online verification portals ensure authenticity.
Grading Report vs. Appraisal: What’s the Difference?
Many people mistakenly believe a grading report and an appraisal are the same, but they serve different purposes:

Feature Grading Report Appraisal
Issued By Independent gemological laboratory (e.g., GIA, DCLA, IGI) Jewellery appraiser or valuation expert
Purpose Determines the diamond’s quality Assigns a monetary value for insurance, resale, or probate
Contains a Value?  No monetary value  Includes an estimated market value
Objectivity Completely unbiased May be influenced by market trends or jeweller pricing
Validity Period Permanent Needs updating over time due to price fluctuations
A diamond grading report is not an appraisal—it does not assign a price to the diamond but provides an objective assessment of its quality and characteristics.

Why is a Grading Report Important?
Ensures Trust & Transparency
Provides a scientific, unbiased evaluation of the diamond’s quality.
Helps prevent fraud or misrepresentation by verifying the diamond’s true attributes.
Helps Determine Market Value
A certified diamond holds more value than an uncertified one.
Allows buyers to compare diamonds based on verified grading standards.
Essential for Insurance & Resale
Insurance companies require a grading report to determine coverage and replacement value.
A report helps sellers accurately price and market their diamond.
Prevents Overpaying
Ensures buyers are not paying for a diamond that does not match its advertised quality.
Helps investors and collectors make informed purchases.
Which Laboratories Issue Grading Reports?
Only independent and reputable gemological laboratories should issue a grading report. Some of the most respected names in the industry include:

DCLA (Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia) – The official CIBJO laboratory for Australia, known for strict and consistent grading.
GIA (Gemological Institute of America) – One of the most widely recognised authorities in diamond grading.
IGI (International Gemological Institute) – Popular for grading both natural and lab-grown diamonds.
HRD (Hoge Raad voor Diamant, Belgium) – Known for high standards in diamond certification.

Always check the laboratory’s reputation before relying on a grading report, as some lesser-known labs may have looser grading standards.

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Grainer

The term "grainer" is used in the diamond industry to describe a diamond’s weight in quarter-carat (0.25 ct) increments.

A Traditional Unit of Diamond Weight Measurement
The term “grainer” is used in the diamond industry to describe a diamond’s weight in quarter-carat (0.25 ct) increments. It is derived from an ancient method of weighing gemstones and precious materials using natural seeds or grains.

In historical gemstone trading, the weight of diamonds was originally measured in grains of wheat or rice before the adoption of the metric carat system. One carat (1.00 ct) was equivalent to four grains of rice, leading to the term “four grainer” for a 1.00-carat diamond (4 × 0.25 ct = 1.00 ct).

Understanding the Grainer System in Diamond Weight
The grainer system remains a widely used traditional unit in the diamond industry, particularly among traders, jewellers, and manufacturers.

Grainer Diamond Weight (Carats) Description
One Grainer 0.25 ct A small diamond often used in accent stones or cluster settings.
Two Grainer 0.50 ct A half-carat diamond, popular for jewellery.
Three Grainer 0.75 ct A diamond nearing the one-carat mark.
Four Grainer 1.00 ct A full-carat diamond, a benchmark size in the industry.
Eight Grainer 2.00 ct A two-carat diamond, considered a luxury size.
Since carat weight affects the value of a diamond exponentially, rather than linearly, a four grainer (1.00 ct) diamond is worth significantly more than four one-grainer (0.25 ct) diamonds of the same quality.

Historical Origins of the Grainer System
1. Early Trade and Natural Measurement
Before precise gemstone scales, ancient traders used grains of wheat, rice, or carob seeds to determine gemstone weight.
The carob seed was particularly favoured due to its uniform size and weight, eventually leading to the development of the carat system.
2. The Transition to Carats
Over time, the industry standardised the weight of one carat to 200 milligrams (0.200 grams).
The term “grainer” persisted, especially in wholesale diamond trading and manufacturing, as it provided a quick reference for size estimation.
Modern Usage of the Grainer System
1. Wholesale Diamond Trading & Pricing
Grainer terminology is common among diamond dealers, particularly in India, Antwerp, New York, and Hong Kong.
Traders often negotiate diamond prices in terms of grainers rather than carat weight.
2. Diamond Sorting & Manufacturing
In diamond cutting and sorting, rough diamonds are categorised into grainers to estimate how they will be cut into polished stones.
Rough diamonds may be described as one-grainer rough (0.25 ct) or four-grainer rough (1.00 ct), depending on their potential yield.
3. Jewellery Design & Setting
Accent stones in rings, earrings, and bracelets are often measured in grainers rather than carats for precision.
For example, a tennis bracelet may contain 20 two-grainers (0.50 ct each), totalling 10.00 carats.
Why the Grainer System Still Matters Today
Quick Size Reference – Allows jewellers and traders to communicate diamond weights efficiently.
Tradition & Heritage – Preserves historical methods of diamond measurement.
Practical for Diamond Sorting – Helps manufacturers categorise and plan rough diamond cutting.

Although modern diamond transactions primarily use the metric carat, the grainer system remains a valuable industry standard, particularly in wholesale and manufacturing sectors.

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Girdle

The girdle helps protect the diamond from chipping and damage, particularly along its edges.

Functions of the Girdle
Structural Protection

The girdle helps protect the diamond from chipping and damage, particularly along its edges.
A properly proportioned girdle ensures the diamond remains stable when set in a ring, pendant, or other jewellery.
Facilitation of Setting

The girdle provides a secure surface for jewellers to grasp and set the diamond in different types of mounts, such as prong, bezel, or tension settings.
A girdle that is too thin can be fragile, while an excessively thick girdle can add unnecessary weight without enhancing the stone’s beauty.
Influence on Light Performance

While the girdle itself does not directly affect a diamond’s brilliance, an extremely thick girdle can trap light, reducing overall sparkle.
A well-proportioned girdle complements the diamond’s cut and symmetry, contributing to optimal light reflection and refraction.
Types of Girdle Finishes
The girdle of a diamond can be finished in different ways, affecting both appearance and durability:

Faceted Girdle

The most common finish in modern diamonds.
Consists of small, polished facets around the circumference, improving light reflection and enhancing the stone’s overall appearance.
Often seen in round brilliant and fancy-cut diamonds.
Polished Girdle

A smooth, glass-like girdle with no visible facets.
Often used in high-quality diamonds to create a seamless transition between the crown and pavilion.
Provides a sleek, elegant look but does not enhance brilliance.
Bruted Girdle (Rough Girdle)

A frosted or slightly grainy appearance, common in older diamond cuts such as the Old European and Old Mine cuts.
This finish results from the traditional bruting process, where diamonds are shaped against each other to form a round outline.
Less common in modern diamonds but still seen in vintage jewellery.
Girdle Thickness and Its Importance
Girdle thickness varies from extremely thin to extremely thick, and this measurement impacts both durability and appearance. The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and other grading labs assess girdle thickness using terms such as:

Girdle Thickness Description Potential Issues
Extremely Thin Very fine edge, barely visible. Prone to chipping, especially in prong settings.
Thin Visible but delicate. Can still be fragile in daily wear.
Medium Ideal thickness for durability and aesthetics. No major concerns.
Slightly Thick Adds slight weight to the diamond but remains secure. No major concerns.
Thick to Extremely Thick Very pronounced edge. Adds unnecessary weight without increasing face-up size, reducing value.
Key Considerations:
Ideal Range: A medium to slightly thick girdle is generally preferred for durability without adding unnecessary weight.
Fancy Cuts: Certain fancy-cut diamonds (e.g., marquise, pear, heart) often have thicker girdles to reinforce delicate points.
Avoiding Chipping: Very thin girdles can be risky, especially in high-contact jewellery like engagement rings.
Impact of the Girdle on Carat Weight
The girdle affects a diamond’s spread (face-up size) and carat weight:

A thicker girdle can add to the carat weight without making the diamond appear larger.
An overly thick girdle may result in a smaller apparent size, as more weight is concentrated in the middle rather than the top view.
A thin or medium girdle maximises the face-up appearance of the diamond.
For buyers, this means that a poorly proportioned girdle can lead to paying for extra carat weight that does not translate to visible size.

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Gemmology

Gemmology: The Science, Art, and Profession of Evaluating Gemstones

The Science, Art, and Profession of Evaluating Gemstones
Gemmology is the scientific study of gemstones, encompassing their identification, evaluation, grading, and authentication. It is both an art and a science, requiring technical expertise, practical skill, and an eye for beauty. While diamonds are a major focus of gemmology, the field also includes coloured gemstones such as rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and other precious and semi-precious stones.

Key Aspects of Gemmology
1. Scientific Foundation
Gemmology is rooted in the study of crystallography, mineralogy, and optics. Key scientific principles include:

Chemical Composition: Each gemstone has a unique chemical structure; for example, diamonds are composed of pure carbon, while sapphires and rubies are varieties of corundum (Al₂O₃).
Crystal Structure: Gemstones have distinct crystal systems (e.g., cubic for diamonds, hexagonal for sapphires).
Optical Properties: Refraction, dispersion, and birefringence affect a gemstone’s brilliance and colour.
Hardness & Durability: Measured on the Mohs scale, where diamonds rank at 10, making them the hardest natural substance.
2. Identification of Gemstones
A gemmologist’s primary role is to accurately identify gemstones and differentiate natural stones from synthetics or imitations. Methods include:

Microscopic Examination: Identifies inclusions, growth patterns, and treatments.
Refractive Index (RI) Testing: Measures how light bends through a gemstone.
Spectroscopy: Analyses light absorption to determine chemical composition.
UV Fluorescence: Helps distinguish natural from treated or synthetic stones.
Specific Gravity (SG) Testing: Determines gemstone density.
3. Diamond & Gemstone Grading
Gemmologists follow internationally recognised grading systems, such as:

The 4 Cs for Diamonds:
Carat Weight – Size of the diamond.
Cut – Quality of faceting, affecting brilliance.
Colour – Rated from D (colourless) to Z (yellow/brown).
Clarity – Measures internal and external flaws.
Coloured Gemstones Grading:
Hue (basic colour, e.g., blue, green, red).
Tone (lightness or darkness of the colour).
Saturation (intensity and purity of the colour).
4. Treatment & Enhancement Detection
Many gemstones undergo treatments to improve their appearance. A gemmologist must identify enhancements such as:

Heat treatment (common in sapphires and rubies).
Irradiation (used in topaz and diamonds).
Fracture filling (glass-filled rubies or laser-treated diamonds).
5. Synthetic & Imitation Gemstones
With technological advances, synthetic gemstones (lab-created but chemically identical to natural ones) are becoming more prevalent. Some methods used in synthetic diamond production include:

HPHT (High Pressure High Temperature)
CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition)
A gemmologist must distinguish these from natural diamonds using advanced spectroscopy, UV fluorescence, and growth pattern analysis.

The Role of a Professional Gemmologist
Gemmologists work in various fields, including:

Jewellery Industry: Evaluating gemstones for jewellery design and valuation.
Laboratories & Certification: Providing official grading reports (e.g., GIA, DCLA).
Auction Houses & Appraisal: Valuing gemstones for resale, investment, or insurance purposes.
Mining & Sourcing: Identifying raw gemstones at the source.
Education & Research: Advancing the field through scientific studies.

Gemmology is a multifaceted discipline that blends science, artistry, and expertise to assess and value gemstones. As the industry evolves, with increasing synthetic production and new treatment methods, the role of a skilled gemmologist remains vital in ensuring the integrity of the gemstone market.

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Gem Quality

Only about 20% of mined diamonds are of gem quality, meaning they meet the necessary standards for use in jewellery. The remaining 80% fall into the industrial-grade category, used in various commercial and technological applications. Let’s explore this in more detail:

Breakdown of Diamond Quality
Gem-Quality Diamonds (≈20%)

These diamonds are characterised by high clarity, colour, and cut quality, making them desirable for jewellery.
They undergo cutting and polishing to enhance their brilliance before being set in rings, necklaces, earrings, and other fine jewellery.
Their value depends on the 4 Cs (Carat, Cut, Colour, Clarity) and whether they are natural or treated.
Industrial-Grade Diamonds (≈80%)

These diamonds are lower in clarity, may have visible inclusions, and often exhibit yellow, brown, or grey colours that make them unsuitable for jewellery.
They are used in industries due to their hardness and durability, which are essential for cutting, drilling, grinding, and polishing applications.
Common uses include:
Diamond-tipped drill bits and saw blades for construction and mining.
Abrasive powders for polishing and grinding metals.
High-tech applications, such as semiconductors and heat conductors in electronics.
Why the Low Percentage of Gem-Quality Diamonds?
Several factors contribute to why only a small fraction of mined diamonds qualify as gem-grade:

Formation Conditions: Natural diamonds form under extreme pressure and temperature deep within the Earth’s mantle. Impurities or irregular growth can affect their clarity, colour, or shape.
Inclusions and Blemishes: Many diamonds contain internal inclusions (tiny fractures or foreign minerals) and external blemishes, making them less suitable for jewellery.
Colour and Transparency: Gem-quality diamonds are typically colourless to light yellow (D-Z on the GIA colour scale). Many mined diamonds have a strong brown or grey tint, reducing their desirability.
Cutting Yield: Some rough diamonds, even if of good quality, may be inefficiently shaped for cutting into marketable gemstones.
Impact on the Diamond Market
Rarity Drives Value: Since high-quality diamonds are less common, they retain their value better than industrial-grade diamonds.
Lab-Grown Diamonds: The gap in supply between industrial and gem-quality diamonds has led to advancements in lab-grown diamonds, which can be produced with high clarity and controlled quality.
Recycling & Recutting: Some lower-quality diamonds can be recut or treated (e.g., laser drilling, fracture filling) to enhance their appearance, but these diamonds are usually less valuable than untreated stones.

The fact that only 1 in 5 mined diamonds meets gem-quality standards highlights the rarity and value of fine diamonds. This also influences pricing, sourcing strategies, and market trends, as both natural and lab-grown diamonds compete in the luxury and industrial sectors.

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Fracture

Fractures can weaken the diamond, making it more susceptible to damage

Fractured Diamond: What It Is and How It Affects the Diamond
A fractured diamond refers to a diamond that has an internal fracture, often called a fracture or crack. These fractures can occur during the diamond’s formation or due to external pressure or mishandling during the cutting process. The fracture may be visible or microscopic, depending on the severity.

Types of Fractures in Diamonds
Internal Fracture (Inclusion):

What It Is: This refers to a crack or break inside the diamond, which can occur naturally during its formation or as a result of external pressure.
How It Affects the Diamond: An internal fracture can affect the diamond’s clarity grade. If the fracture is large or visible, it can lower the diamond’s quality and affect its brilliance and durability. These fractures are often categorized under inclusions in clarity grading.
Surface Fracture (Blemish):

What It Is: A surface fracture, or blemish, is a crack on the outer surface of the diamond, usually caused by accidental damage.
How It Affects the Diamond: While these types of fractures are visible to the naked eye and can detract from the diamond’s overall appearance, they generally don’t impact the diamond’s internal integrity or overall clarity grade.
Fracture-Filled Diamonds
Some diamonds with fractures may undergo a process known as fracture filling. This process involves filling the fracture with a transparent resin or glass-like substance to improve the diamond’s appearance and clarity.

How It Works:
The process involves applying heat and pressure to fill the fracture with a substance that makes the crack less visible.
The goal is to enhance clarity by making the fracture less noticeable to the naked eye.
Impact on Value:
Fracture-filled diamonds are generally less valuable than untreated diamonds because they are perceived as less durable. Over time, the filling can discolour or even break down, affecting the appearance and integrity of the diamond.
It’s important to note that diamonds treated in this way are typically marked as fracture-filled diamonds, and this treatment is disclosed on certification reports.
How Fractured Diamonds Are Graded
Diamonds with fractures will be evaluated based on the clarity grading system, which looks at the size, location, and visibility of the fracture (or inclusion):

Flawless (FL): No fractures or inclusions.
Internally Flawless (IF): No internal fractures, though surface imperfections may exist.
Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1, VVS2): Fractures are microscopic and very difficult to see under magnification.
Very Slightly Included (VS1, VS2): Minor fractures visible only under magnification.
Slightly Included (SI1, SI2): Fractures are noticeable under magnification and may be visible to the naked eye.
Included (I1, I2, I3): Fractures are visible to the naked eye and can affect the diamond’s durability and appearance.
Potential Risks of Fractured Diamonds
Durability:

Fractures can weaken the diamond, making it more susceptible to damage. Impact or stress on the diamond may cause the fracture to worsen, especially in diamonds that have significant inclusions or fractures.
Appearance:

A visible fracture can affect the diamond’s brilliance and overall aesthetic. It may interfere with the way light interacts with the diamond, potentially causing it to appear duller or less brilliant than diamonds without fractures.
Value:

Diamonds with significant fractures are often less valuable than diamonds with better clarity grades, as the fracture detracts from the diamond’s overall beauty and durability.
Dealing with Fractured Diamonds: Should You Buy or Sell?
When Buying:
If you come across a fractured diamond, you should take extra care in evaluating its clarity and structural integrity. Depending on the location and size of the fracture, it may be worth purchasing if the price is right. However, be cautious of diamonds with large or visible fractures, as they could significantly impact the diamond’s long-term durability and appearance.

When Selling:
Selling a fractured diamond may be more challenging due to the impact of the fracture on the diamond’s value. You may want to disclose any fracture filling or inclusions, as honesty can ensure the buyer understands what they’re purchasing.

A fractured diamond can still be valuable, but its clarity, appearance, and durability may be compromised depending on the severity of the fracture. If you are buying a diamond with a fracture, it’s important to ensure you’re comfortable with the potential risks, both visually and in terms of long-term durability. If you are selling a fractured diamond, understanding how fractures can affect its value and appearance is crucial. Would you like to explore options for clarity improvement, or how to assess diamonds with fractures more thoroughly?

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Fracture Filling

Fracture Filling in Diamonds: What It Is and How It Works
Fracture filling is a treatment used to improve the clarity and appearance of diamonds that have visible fractures or cracks. The process involves filling the internal fractures with a transparent substance, often resin or glass-like material, to make the cracks less visible to the naked eye. This can enhance the diamond’s clarity and overall aesthetic appeal, but it also comes with potential risks.

How Fracture Filling Works
Identification of Fractures:

Diamonds that have visible fractures or cracks (called inclusions) are first carefully examined under magnification.
The fractures are identified as imperfections that affect the diamond’s clarity and appearance.
Application of Filling Material:

The fracture is then filled with a clear, transparent substance (such as resin or glass) that closely matches the diamond’s appearance.
The resin is inserted into the fracture under heat and pressure, causing it to bond with the diamond.
Result:

The filled fracture becomes less visible and may be nearly invisible to the naked eye, enhancing the clarity and visual appeal of the diamond.
The treatment improves the diamond’s appearance by making the cracks less noticeable, and it can also enhance light dispersion.
Benefits of Fracture Filling
Improved Clarity:

The main benefit of fracture filling is that it makes fractures less noticeable, effectively improving the diamond’s clarity grade.
Lower Cost:

Fracture-filled diamonds tend to be less expensive than untreated diamonds with similar features, making them a more affordable option for buyers looking for a larger diamond or one with fewer visible flaws.
Appearance Enhancement:

Filling fractures can lead to a brighter, cleaner diamond that has an appearance similar to a higher-clarity stone, especially when the fractures are in highly visible areas.
Risks and Drawbacks of Fracture Filling
Lower Durability:

While the resin fills the fractures, it does not make the diamond any stronger. In fact, the treatment can weaken the diamond by reducing its natural resistance to breakage. The filling material is not as tough as the diamond itself and can be damaged under pressure or impact.
Potential Discolouration:

Over time, the filling material can discolour or become visible if it breaks down. The resin may change colour, potentially making the fracture more noticeable than before.
Disclosure Requirement:

Diamonds that undergo fracture filling should be disclosed as such. Ethical dealers and industry standards require that fracture-filled diamonds be clearly labelled, and the buyer must be informed about the treatment.
Decreased Resale Value:

Because fracture-filled diamonds are considered to be less valuable than untreated diamonds, they may not retain their value as well. Additionally, the filled fractures could affect future appraisals or resales.
Fracture-Filled Diamond Grading and Certification
Disclosure on Certificates:
A diamond that has been fracture-filled will often be noted on the certification report, and it’s important for both buyers and sellers to know whether the diamond has been treated. The GIA (Gemological Institute of America), AGS (American Gem Society), and other grading labs will indicate if a diamond has been treated with fracture filling.
Impact on Clarity Grading:
Fracture filling can temporarily improve the clarity grade of a diamond. For example, a diamond with visible cracks (SI2 or I1 clarity) may appear VS1 or better after the treatment. However, this clarity improvement does not last indefinitely, and the filled fracture will not make the diamond equivalent to a naturally flawless diamond.
Ethics and Transparency in Fracture Filling
Full Disclosure:

Reputable jewellers and diamond dealers are required to disclose the fracture-filling treatment to buyers, as it affects the diamond’s value and integrity.
Buyers should always ask whether a diamond has been treated in this way and check the certificate for any mention of the treatment.
Long-Term Considerations:

While fracture filling can enhance the appearance of a diamond, buyers should be aware that the treatment could be compromised over time, especially with regular cleaning or exposure to high heat or harsh chemicals.

Should You Buy a Fracture-Filled Diamond?
When to Consider a Fracture-Filled Diamond:
If you are looking for a larger diamond or a diamond with better clarity at a lower price, a fracture-filled diamond can be a viable option. Just be sure to understand the risks and limitations of the treatment, especially with regard to durability and long-term appearance.
When to Avoid a Fracture-Filled Diamond:
If you are concerned about the diamond’s long-term durability, resale value, or if you prefer a diamond that has not been treated in any way, it’s best to avoid fracture-filled diamonds.

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Fluorescence

Fluorescence in Diamonds: What It Is and How It Affects Your Diamond
Fluorescence in diamonds refers to the glow that a diamond emits when exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. When a diamond has fluorescence, it can show a blueish glow (or, in rare cases, other colours) under UV light. This phenomenon is due to the presence of trace elements, typically boron or nitrogen, in the diamond’s crystal structure.

How Fluorescence Works in Diamonds
Ultraviolet Light Exposure:

Fluorescence occurs when a diamond is exposed to UV light—such as sunlight, certain types of lamps, or black lights—which excites the molecules in the diamond and causes them to emit visible light in a blue hue.
Intensity of Fluorescence:

The level of fluorescence can range from none to very strong. This is graded as follows:
None: No fluorescence under UV light.
Faint: The diamond shows a very slight fluorescence.
Medium: Noticeable fluorescence, but not very strong.
Strong: The diamond emits a noticeable glow when exposed to UV light.
Very Strong: The diamond gives off an intense glow in UV light.
Color of Fluorescence:

Most diamonds with fluorescence exhibit a blue glow, but in rare cases, the fluorescence can be yellow, green, or white. Blue fluorescence is the most common and generally considered desirable, as it can complement the diamond’s appearance and enhance its overall sparkle.
Fluorescence and Diamond Appearance
Visible Effects in Regular Lighting:

In general, fluorescence is not visible under normal lighting conditions. The glow only appears when the diamond is exposed to UV light. In everyday settings, such as under natural sunlight or incandescent lighting, fluorescence typically does not affect how the diamond looks.
Fluorescence and the Diamond’s Color:

Fluorescence can sometimes impact the appearance of a diamond’s color:
For diamonds with lower color grades (like K, L, or M), the blue fluorescence can give the diamond a whiter or brighter appearance, somewhat masking yellowish or brownish hues.
However, for higher color diamonds (like D, E, or F), fluorescence may cause the diamond to look duller or less bright, as the blue glow can contrast with the diamond’s natural whiteness.
Fluorescence and Diamond Clarity:

Fluorescence does not affect the clarity of a diamond, but it can sometimes make inclusions more visible in strongly fluorescent diamonds, especially under UV light. In extreme cases, fluorescence can make inclusions appear milky or cloudy, reducing the overall aesthetic.
Pros and Cons of Fluorescence in Diamonds
Pros:
Can Enhance Appearance for Lower Color Diamonds:

Blue fluorescence can make diamonds with lower color grades appear whiter or more colorless, which may be an advantage for buyers on a budget.
Increased Value for Some:

Some buyers find fluorescence desirable, especially when it gives the diamond an extra glow. It may also be perceived as a sign of rarity and uniqueness.
Unique Visual Effect:

Under UV light, the blue glow of a fluorescent diamond can create a unique visual effect that makes the diamond stand out.
Cons:
Potential for Reduced Value:

In some cases, diamonds with strong fluorescence may be valued less than those with no fluorescence, particularly in high-color diamonds, where the blue glow might interfere with the diamond’s natural brilliance.
Possible Cloudiness:

Strong fluorescence, especially in diamonds with a low clarity grade or inclusions, can cause the diamond to appear cloudy or milky in appearance under certain lighting conditions.
Not Always Desired:

Some buyers prefer diamonds without fluorescence because it can introduce a blueish tint that does not appeal to everyone. People who prefer the purest white diamonds may shy away from fluorescent stones.
Fluorescence in Diamond Grading
GIA Grading:

The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) grades fluorescence on a scale of None, Faint, Medium, Strong, and Very Strong.
GIA’s grading report will include the fluorescence grade, so potential buyers can make an informed decision.
Fluorescence vs. Other Factors:

Fluorescence is just one of many factors in determining a diamond’s value. While it can influence the overall appearance, it does not affect the diamond’s cut, carat weight, or clarity.
How Fluorescence Affects Diamond Pricing
Fluorescent Diamonds Can Be Less Expensive:
Generally, diamonds with strong fluorescence may be priced lower than diamonds with no fluorescence, especially if the fluorescence causes visible cloudiness or makes the diamond appear less brilliant in normal lighting.

Fluorescence Can Add Character:
However, some buyers appreciate the added glow and distinctiveness of fluorescent diamonds, and the blue fluorescence can actually increase the diamond’s appeal. The rarity of strong fluorescence in diamonds can sometimes be a selling point, adding value for certain collectors.