GIA Spots Rare Inscription Fraud in Simulant

GIA dossiers credit

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has uncovered three synthetic moissanites with forged inscriptions that fraudsters had used to misrepresent them as natural diamonds.

The cases at the Johannesburg laboratory marked the first times the GIA had discovered fake girdle inscriptions on diamond simulants, it said in a recent article in its academic journal, Gems & Gemology.

The lab initially received a round brilliant, 1.02-carat stone for a diamond-grading report. The report number on the girdle was for an E-color natural diamond with the same weight that was graded in 2019, but the dimensions were different because moissanite has lower specific gravity, meaning that it weighs less relative to its volume.

Standard testing showed the stone was not a diamond, while subsequent spectroscopic and gemological analysis proved it was synthetic moissanite, GIA researchers wrote in the fall 2020 edition of Gems & Gemology, which it released last week.

“The possibility exists that a consumer could purchase this simulant thinking it was a natural diamond, especially with a deliberately misleading inscription,” wrote Sicebiso Hlatshwayo, a supervisor of diamond grading at the GIA in Johannesburg, and Sally Eaton-Magaña, senior manager of diamond identification at the GIA in Carlsbad, California.

Since writing the article about the first stone, the same lab in South Africa received and identified two more synthetic moissanites with fraudulent inscriptions, the GIA added in a note.

In addition to the size discrepancy, the first stone’s clarity was equivalent to VVS2 (the GIA doesn’t usually give moissanite a grade of this type), whereas the diamond it was impersonating was VVS1. The inscription’s font was also distinctly different from the GIA’s standard one. The GIA obscured the fraudulent inscription, in line with its usual practice.

People sometimes mistake synthetic moissanite for diamond because some of their properties are similar, such as their hardness and thermal conductivity, the gemologists explained. The latter feature is often a method of distinguishing diamonds from simulant, but it can fail if the stone is moissanite.

However, the stone showed “double refraction” — a feature of moissanite, absent in diamonds, that gives it more brilliance.

Another key difference between the materials is dispersion, the GIA pointed out. Moissanite has higher dispersion, meaning light that enters the stone is refracted more. The eye, therefore, sees a more distinct range of colors, giving it more “fire” than diamonds.

Source: Diamonds.net

GIA to Cut Back Antwerp Business

GIA grading report

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will scale back its Antwerp operations from January, but has decided not to shut the laboratory entirely.

“Today, we notified clients of the GIA laboratory in Antwerp that, as of January, the laboratory will offer consolidated services with reduced staff,” a spokesperson told Rapaport News Monday. It will continue to provide client consultations, rough-diamond analysis for the GIA Diamond Origin Report, and some follow-up services and inscriptions for D-to-Z diamonds up to 3.99 carats, he added.

In August, the GIA revealed preliminary plans to close or significantly trim its laboratory and offices in the Belgian city, citing market conditions and the Covid-19 pandemic.

Source: Diamonds.net

GIA Unveils New Lab-Grown Reports

The new GIA lab-grown diamond reports. (GIA)

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has launched its new grading reports for lab-grown diamonds, offering an updated look and format.

The new documents, branded “LGDR by GIA,” come in digital-only form and use specific color and clarity scores rather than the descriptive terms and ranges that appeared in its previous reports, the organization said Tuesday.

“The evolution of GIA’s reports for laboratory-grown diamonds is fully aligned with our mission to protect all consumers,” said Susan Jacques, GIA president and CEO. “Everyone who purchases gemstone jewelry — whether natural or laboratory-grown — expects and deserves the information, confidence and protection that come with a GIA report.”

The offering includes two different Laboratory-Grown Diamond Reports for colorless synthetic diamonds — a standard report and a dossier — and two for colored diamonds: one with plot diagrams and one without.

Notably, the GIA avoids calling the documents “grading reports” — a term it reserves for natural diamonds. Earlier this week, the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) recommended that laboratories use that term only for natural stones and instead call synthetics reports “Laboratory-Grown Diamond Product Specifications,” arguing that the concept of grading implies rarity.

“The color and clarity specifications for laboratory-grown diamonds are described on the same scale as GIA grading reports for natural diamonds, but that does not correlate to nature’s continuum of rarity,” the GIA noted.

The reports state that a stone was created by chemical vapor deposition (CVD) or High Pressure-High Temperature (HPHT) and that it may include post-growth treatments to change the color. Each report also comes with a QR code linking to a custom page on GIA’s website with information about lab-grown diamonds.

Each stone will also receive a laser inscription with the report number and the words “laboratory-grown,” unless another acceptable term already appears on the girdle.

Source: Diamonds.net

GIA Considers Shutting Antwerp Lab

GIA Grading Report

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) plans to close or heavily scale back its Antwerp operations following a review of its business in the Belgian city.

“Based on global and local market conditions and activity, and the impact of the global pandemic, the GIA conducted an evaluation of the long-term viability of GIA Belgium,” a spokesperson for the organization told Rapaport News on Friday. “As a result of that evaluation, we have the intention to close or significantly reduce the GIA laboratory and offices in Antwerp, which will likely result in a reduction in staff.”

The GIA invested in its Antwerp business as recently as 2018, expanding the office’s research and traceability services and adding diamond grading to its capabilities — though it also shuttered its Dubai branch the same year.

The decision about the “closure or near-closure” in Antwerp is not final, the GIA noted, and the group is consulting with staff members in Belgium.

Around 50 people could lose their jobs if the move goes through, according to Belgian newspaper Het Laatste Nieuws.

Belgium’s diamond industry has struggled in recent years amid a shift in manufacturing work to India and a reduction in bank lending to the sector. The coronavirus has intensified the situation: The country’s polished exports for 2020’s second quarter slid 71% year on year to $813.2 million as global demand plummeted and shipping routes shut down. The GIA lab closed for almost two months during the pandemic.

The laboratory will maintain its current operations in the meantime, meaning clients will still be able to submit and pick up stones, the GIA stated.

Source: Diamonds.net

Chinese Online Giant to Offer Verified GIA Reports

JD

Technology provider Everledger has teamed up with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) to verify diamond grading reports on e-commerce site JD.com, China’s largest retailer.

Everledger will synchronize the GIA’s grading information to JD’s existing anti-counterfeiting platform, giving consumers independently verified grading reports, the three organizations said in a joint statement Tuesday. The program will also offer origin information, while identifying and reducing fraud, such as the use of the same GIA report for multiple stones.

Using blockchain technology, the service will give “unprecedented” transparency and enhance the digital-shopping experience amid a rise in online diamond buying, the groups said. “Digitally savvy” millennials account for a larger proportion of diamond sales in China than elsewhere in the world, they added.

“Given the growth in e-commerce, fraud is a very real risk in the diamond market, which is why it’s so important that consumers have access to secure and trustworthy information,” explained Chris Taylor, Everledger’s chief operating officer. “By bringing cutting-edge blockchain technology, online luxury shopping, and GIA’s gold-standard grading expertise together on JD.com, we’re empowering consumers to purchase luxury items with increased confidence.”

The information will be available through JD’s mobile and desktop websites, as well as on its app. The e-commerce giant will also offer livestreams and educational initiatives to teach customers about fraud associated with purchasing diamonds.

London-based Everledger entered greater China in 2018, when it collaborated with the GIA and Hong Kong-based jewelry retailer Chow Tai Fook to offer consumers secure grading reports using blockchain technology. The technology company also partnered with Alrosa to offer provenance information on diamonds through Chinese multipurpose app WeChat. Tencent, which owns WeChat, led Everledger’s Series A funding round last year.

JD, headquartered in Beijing, recorded revenues of $82.9 billion in 2019, putting it ahead of rival Alibaba, which brought in $72 billion in the fiscal year ending March 31, 2020.

Source: Diamonds.net

GIA Now Able to Screen Fancy-Shaped Melee

GIA Melee diamonds

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has expanded its melee-screening capabilities, with the organization now able to test whether parcels of fancy-shaped diamonds contain lab-grown or treated stones.

The melee-analysis service separates natural diamonds from synthetics, simulants and stones that are potentially treated using High Pressure-High Temperature (HPHT). Since launching it in 2016, the GIA has only been able to sort round-brilliant melee, the GIA said last week.

The service processes 1,800 to 2,000 stones per hour, and can also sort screened round diamonds by color and size range. Once diamonds are sorted, the melee is sealed in a secure package and returned, the GIA noted. 

Source: Diamonds.net

GIA to Give Full Color, Clarity Grades for Lab-Grown

GIA grader

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is launching a new digital report for lab-grown diamonds that will feature specific color and clarity grades. The organization, which currently only offers loose descriptions and grade ranges for synthetics, will introduce the new reports early in the fourth quarter, it said Tuesday.

The service will incorporate the GIA’s two existing lab-grown reports. Its full reports — available for stones weighing 0.15 carats and larger — will include a 4Cs assessment and plotted diagrams showing clarity and proportions. Its lower-priced “dossiers,” which are available only for stones ranging from 0.15 to 1.99 carats, will just include the 4Cs assessment and the proportions diagram. The lab will also offer specific color and clarity grades for lab-grown colored diamonds.

The GIA began grading synthetic diamonds in 2007, and has since aligned the service more with what it offers for natural stones. Until last year, it only provided descriptions of color and clarity, such as “colorless” and “slightly included.” However, from July 1, 2019, it started indicating the range of traditional color and clarity scores to which those descriptions referred — such as “D to F” and “SI1 to SI2.”

The institute has now moved a stage further, arguing that enhanced transparency will benefit consumers and the trade.

“Natural- and laboratory-grown diamonds coexist today, accepted by both consumers and the trade,” said CEO Susan Jacques. “Ensuring consumers’ trust with GIA’s reliable, independent and authoritative grading reports for all diamonds benefits the public and the entire gem and jewelry industry. We believe the growth of laboratory-grown diamonds will expand the overall diamond market and bring in new customers.”

The reports will only be available in a digital format and will feature an updated design that distinguishes them from their natural-diamond counterparts. The California-headquartered organization will continue to laser-inscribe the stones with the words “laboratory-grown” alongside the GIA report number to further ensure differentiation from naturals. The documents will still carry a statement that the graded stone may have undergone post-growth treatment to alter its color, the GIA pointed out.

The GIA is keeping the same fee structure as for natural-diamond reports since the grading work is the same, it noted.

Source: Diamonds.net

GIA Embraces Automated Clarity Grading

GIA Grading Report

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has teamed up with IBM Research to develop an automated system for grading the clarity of a diamond.

The artificial intelligence (AI) technology uses data from tens of millions of diamonds GIA laboratories have examined in the past, applying the institute’s existing grading standards. It’s already in limited use at the GIA’s New York and Carlsbad laboratories, the institute said Monday.

Grading laboratories have increasingly invested in AI in recent years, as it promises more accurate and consistent results. Sarine Technologies unveiled its automated color and clarity grading equipment in 2016, while the GIA has been working with IBM on the joint project for around two years.

“IBM’s AI technology, combined with GIA’s expertise, extensive data and gemological-research capabilities, enables us to deliver advancements in consistency, accuracy and speed unlike any other organization,” said Tom Moses, the GIA’s executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer.

The program will initially include the most popular diamond sizes. The GIA aims to expand it to other sizes, shapes and qualities in the future. The GIA and IBM are planning other collaborations combining gemological evaluation with AI.

Source: Diamonds.net

GIA to Reopen New York Lab

The GIA’s New York laboratory

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is reopening its New York grading laboratory Monday following a three-month shutdown due to the coronavirus.

“As restrictions are lifted and the global gem and jewelry industry begins to recover, we are safely reopening GIA locations, returning staff to work and preparing to engage in our mission-driven activities,” GIA CEO Susan Jacques said Thursday. “We are strictly following government regulations and guidelines, implementing new processes, and adapting our facilities to keep everyone who comes to GIA — staff, clients, students and visitors — healthy and safe.”

With the 47th Street venue back in action, all 11 of the GIA’s laboratories will have unlocked their doors. The 10 other sites are steadily increasing their hours and adding extra shifts to meet growing demand for their services, the GIA said.

Meanwhile, its gemological schools in Taipei and Hong Kong are open, and all other GIA educational centers will welcome back on-campus students “in the near future,” it said.

The organization closed most of its sites in March as the virus spread, and gradually reopened them as lockdown restrictions eased. It will continue to monitor local-government and health rules in each location and adjust its services as necessary.

Source: Diamonds.net

Five GIA Labs Resume Operations

A diamond grader in a GIA lab

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has reopened laboratories in five locations following COVID-19 shutdowns.

The organization’s labs in Johannesburg and Tokyo recommenced limited operations on May 7, the GIA said Monday. Visitors to the Johannesburg lab must make an appointment, have a permit, and wear a mask. The Tokyo location will accept and return goods by delivery only.

On May 11, the GIA resumed operations at its locations in Antwerp and in Gaborone, Botswana. While Antwerp is receiving customers by appointment only, Gaborone is open with a limited capacity to comply with government mandates and allow for proper social distancing, the GIA noted. The lab in Carlsbad, California, reopened May 18, with submission of goods only accepted by shipment.

Labs in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Ramat Gan, Israel, are all open, and are operating with regular hours. Operations in Mumbai, Surat and New York remain closed.

“Our first priority is to protect the health and safety of all staff, clients and visitors,” said Tom Moses, the GIA’s executive vice president and chief research and laboratory officer. “As we work to meet our clients’ needs whenever and wherever possible, we are planning for the safe opening of all other GIA locations as soon as conditions and government authorities permit.”

Source: Diamonds.net