Swiss watch exports slumped in December, with the US suffering its first drop in six months.
Total foreign sales were down 5.4 per cent year-on-year to CHF 2.033bn ($2.23bn) in what the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry Exports (FHS) said was a “sharp contraction”. It’s the biggest drop since June 2024 (-7.2 per cent).
Sales in China continued their decline (down 19.0 per cent), ditto Hong Kong (down 6.4 per cent). Hong Kong is currently the second biggest market globally for Swiss watches and China is the third.
Exports to the biggest single market, the US, fell by 1.0 per cent during the month, ins spite of the holiday season, following on from a 4.7 per cent increase in November.
Among the top 15 markets, the only ones to show growth during the month were UAE (+0.6 per cent), United Kingdom (+5.8 per cent), Spain (+19.3 per cent) and Australia (+7.2 per cent).
The FHS said it recorded falls in all price segments, with the sharpest decline among watches priced at CHF 200 to CHF 500 ($220 to $550). The CHF 500 to CHF 3,000 ($550 to $3,300) segment held up better, declining by just 1.8 per cent.
The latest Breguet watch is a marvelous piece with beautiful diamonds and a unique design. It symbolizes the brand’s innovative spirit and horological elegance, passed down through time. Thanks to a unique stone-setting technique, the watch has an elegant pattern that makes the dial stand out. According to Breguet, the Classique Tourbillion 3358 is the embodiment of Abraham Louis Breguet’s ideas, which date back to 1801.
Abraham Louis, the founder of the brand, came up with a unique technique of setting gems on a watch’s dial in the 19th century. While this timepiece has a dazzling front face, it also stands out due to its mechanical precision. Abraham Louis’ innovations merged these two fields into one—mechanical precision and style.
The dial comes with different diamonds, set in different positions to create a circular pattern that converges at one point, reflecting light stylishly. Stones are positioned close to one another to cover the base that supports them.
In terms of performance, this timepiece is powered by one of the most innovative movements from the brand, the in-house caliber 187D tourbillon, which is capable of offering a 50-hour power reserve. It’s a movement that was developed for precision and accuracy by Abraham Louis but has been updated over the past few decades to keep up with the times.
Speaking of which, the watch’s dial has different cuts, which offer views into the mechanism. While the front face features hundreds of diamonds, the back has an interesting moon-like texture, characterized by grooves and ridges.
Rolex remains the king of Swiss watches, with more than a 30 per cent share of the market in 2023, according to new research by the investment bank Morgan Stanley and consultants LuxeConsult.
“No other luxury brand can claim such a dominant position in its respective sector,” they say in a new report.
Rolex’s market share is more than next five biggest brands combined: Cartier (8 per cent), Omega (7 per cent), Patek Philippe (6 per cent) Audemars Piguet (5 per cent) and Richard Mille (3 per cent).
Rolex’s revenue for the year are estimated at $11.43bn (CHF 10.1bn). It sold an estimated 1.24m watches last year, at an average cost of $13,832 (CHF 12,218). Second-placed Cartier sold 660,00 watches at an average cost of $6,467 (CHF 5,712).
Total sales of Swiss watches last year returned to pre-Covid levels, up 7.6 per cent year-on-year to $30.23bn (CHF 26.7bn).
Jacob & Co. unveiled its $20 million Billionaire Timeless Treasure Yellow Diamond watch on Monday in Geneva, concurrent with the Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 exhibition. The complex tourbillon timepiece is totally ensconced in 425 Asscher-Cut Fancy Yellow and Intense Yellow diamonds. The feat of simply collecting and cutting all of the highest color and quality of matching diamonds alone took three and a half years.
This is not the first Billionaire watch the brand has built. In fact, in 2015 it released its first Billionaire watch bedecked with 260 carats of white diamonds. Three years later, in 2018, Floyd Mayweather bought a Billionaire watch (only 21 have been made since 2015, with all of them selling except for one) for $18 million. The brand then unveiled, also in 2018, its $6 million yellow diamond Millionaire watch with 127 carats of intense yellow diamonds. But that wasn’t enough for this independently owned and operated jewelry and watch brand. Thee needed to take each of those renditions to new heights.
When it was determined that the brand would move forward with this timepiece, ten top-notch gemologists scoured the Earth for enough perfectly matched rare diamonds. In the end, the brand purchased 880 carats of rough yellow diamonds and had them cut over the course of several years into what would end up being individual Asscher-cut stones weighing 216.89 carats total. Just the studying of the rough diamonds and the cutting and polishing took thousands of hours.
The Asscher Cut, invented during the Art Deco era, is a square diamond with clipped or angled corners that offers a nice open view into the stone. The Asscher Cut diamonds on this watch boast 57 facets on the edges and the crown sits higher, so more rough stone is needed than for, say, a brilliant-cut stone. As such, there was more diamond-waste to creating the Asscher Cuts, according to the brand.
Renani Jewels (India) has broken the dazzling Guinness World Records title for the most diamonds set on a watch in Meerut, India as verified on 29 December 2022.
The construction of this sparkly piece of jewellery started with hand drawn sketches to work out the design of the watch.
After the initial design was finalized, it was recreated in 3D as a computer-aided-design (CAD) and then printed.
All the diamonds were then meticulously placed onto the watch and it took five different forms of polishing to give it the desired look.
The watch is named Srinkia – the watch of good fortunes. Inspired by ancient Indian mythology, Srinkia means flower.
According to founder and CEO Harshit Bansal, it also signifies the Indian goddess of wealth and good fortunes – Lakshmi.
The end watch has 17,512 white diamonds and 12 black diamonds.
This beat the previous record set by Aaron Shum Jewelry Ltd. (Hong Kong) with 15,858 diamonds back in December 2018.
These diamonds were authenticated by an International Gemological Institute Lab (IGI) certificate to determine that actual diamonds were used.
The main challenge faced by Renani Jewels was the procurement of a huge quantity of diamonds with the same colour, size, shape and clarity.
To verify the record, each individual diamond had to be counted in the presence of a jewellery and diamond expert.
In accordance with GWR’s guidelines, the diamond had to be sourced from producers that are certified by the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS), which prevents “conflict” diamonds from entering the mainstream market.
The end watch weighs 373.30 grams and is completely wearable.
Diamond records have proved popular in India, with the most diamonds set on a ring being broken by SWA Diamonds last May.
AP is amping up the bling with a series of watches decked out entirely in precious stones.
It’s raining bling! Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henri Bennahmias isn’t holding back before his impending departure from the brand in 2023. Instead, true to his persona, he’s upping the ante for the Q4 celebrations of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary with a flashy lineup of 20 Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow pieces (10 in 41 mm and 10 in 37 mm) fully set—from the dial to the bezel to the case to the bracelet—in emeralds, rubies, tourmalines, tanzanites, tsavorites, chrysoberyls and spessartites. Unlike other “rainbow” watches, these are arranged in monochrome settings such as a fully yellow chrysoberyl-set version to one dressed in solid rubies.
Adding to the difficulty in setting the variations of stones is that each watch had to be adjusted according to the typology, hardness and other specifics according to the makeup of each type of stone. The baguette stones were also cut in 179 different sizes for the 41 mm version and 153 different sizes for the 37 mm iteration before being hand-polished.
To make sure the stones covered as much surface as possible, Audemars Piguet and Salanitro arranged them in an invisible setting—a jewelry technique in which as little metal as possible is revealed around the gems to give the appearance that they are floating—on the dial and bracelet links. To achieve this, tiny grooves were cut into the 18-karat white gold cases with the stones attached inside via hidden rails mounted in the metal. This kind of setting is notoriously difficult and only 10 out of 80 artisans at Salanitro’s studio are able to complete the task. They worked for a month and a half on the setting alone for each set.
The AP’s Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbows contain the caliber 4309 for the 41 mm version—the most recent self-winding hours, minutes and seconds movement in this diameter—and the Caliber 5909 for the 37 mm model. The 5909 is based on the Caliber 5900, which first appeared this year in other Royal Oaks of the same case size. Like other 50th anniversary editions, these will also come with a 22-carat pink gold oscillating rotor that spells out “50 years.” The Audemars Piguet logo and “Swiss Made” label have been cautiously printed on the sapphire crystal so as not to interfere with the gems.
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MB&F founder Max Büsser is leaning into his female clientele. Back in 2018, during a sneak peek of his first ladies’ watch, the LM FlyingT, he admitted to Robb Report that he was unsure of his ability to design for women. “Men don’t understand women,” he said, “so I thought, ‘How am I going to do this?’ ”That may sound like an antiquated notion of gender norms, but the watch itself was anything but conventional.
Its futuristic design was unlike anything on the market and proved to be such a hit the company has since launched seven versions. The eighth, a collaboration with Bulgari that debuts at the end of November, may be its biggest headliner yet.
The joint design was born out of a friendship between Büsser and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s creative director of watches. Both have a penchant for bucking tradition and are known for housing extraordinarily inventive mechanics in out-of-the-box designs.
The new 39 mm-by-20 mm LM FlyingT Allegra uses the same vertically built 3-D movement (it features a flying tourbillon on the upper end of the axis) and space-age domed case design as the original but now comes decked out in Italian opulence.
A system of large, colorful gems orbit the tourbillon, all set within a galaxy of diamonds covering the mainplate; the combination of stones—which include tsavorite, topaz, amethyst, tanzanite, rubellite and tourmalin.
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With more than 200 years of watchmaking expertise, Vacheron Constantin – the oldest, continually operating Swiss watch brand has a lot of archives to turn to for inspiration.
That is exactly what it did when the brand opted to release a new timepiece to its Heures Creatives collection.
Today, Vacheron Constantin unveils the highly sophisticated and somewhat dramatic new Heures Creatives Heure Romantique ladies’ watch.
With this new diamond-set 18 karat gold ultra feminine timepiece, Vacheron Constantin not only showcases its ability to embrace the past and translate it to today with ease, but also deftly demonstrates its watchmaking and gem-setting expertise.
The new flower-shaped watch with great curves recalls the Art Nouveau era in its shape and its setting.
The watch boasts a striking black mother of pearl dial with beautiful striations and highly stylized Roman numerals within the arabesques.
It is meticulously set with diamond brilliants on the case, case sides, and leaf like lugs using a prong setting that was prevalent in the early 1920’s and ‘30’s and that is still relevant today.
In fact, the 18 karat white gold watch boasts a total of 104 diamonds set on two levels of the case for stunning appeal.
Even the white gold folding clasp and the crown are set with diamonds – for a total of 123 stones weighing 2.6 carats.
As if the diamonds and the meticulous setting which takes an artisan hundreds of hours to complete Vacheron Constantin also adds finely engraved small gold beads to the entire circumference of the case, with another row of beads outlining the diamonds on the case.
This incredible detailing takes dozens of hours of work and is barely noticeable from a distance. However, Vacheron Constantin would have it no other way. The brand is a stickler for details.
The Heure Romantique ladies’ watch features diamonds set on two levels, as well as the leaf-shaped VACHERON CONSTANTIN
The Heures Creatives Heure Romantique watch, which was inspired by a 1916 archival piece that was created with an all diamond bracelet, joins Vacheron Constantin’s Heures Creatives collection.
The series was started five years ago in 2015, with the first watches released being a trilogy of watches inspired by the Belle Epoque era and forward through the 1970’s.
Looking at this elegant watch, one would guess it to be fitted with a quartz movement. However, Vacheron Constantin prides itself on its watchmaking as well as its artistic craftsmanship.
This watch is more than just a beautiful statement piece, it also boasts a top notch in-house-made mechanical movement.
Powered by the extremely thin manual winding Caliber 1055, with 115 individual components and 21 jewels, the petite watch boasts 40 hours of power reserve.
It is finished with a black satin strap perfect for any black-tie soiree. The watch retails for $54,500.
