Al Capone’s Diamond-Encrusted Pocket Watch to Be Auctioned at Sotheby’s
A dazzling piece of underworld history is heading to auction: Al Capone’s custom diamond-studded pocket watch, crafted from platinum and set with 90 diamonds, will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s next month. The extraordinary Patek Philippe timepiece, dripping in gangster-era flair and opulence, is expected to fetch between USD $80,000 and $160,000.
Nearly a century before “bust-down” watches became a mainstay in hip-hop culture, Capone was already setting trends. Dissatisfied with the understated design of his factory-made Patek Philippe, the infamous Chicago mob boss commissioned a local jeweller to completely rework it. The result? A solid platinum case housing the original movement, with a striking caseback spelling out “AC” in 90 single-cut diamonds—a bold, custom feature unheard of at the time.
“This type of gem-setting would have been extremely rare during that period,” says Geoff Hess, Sotheby’s Global Head of Watches. “Capone wasn’t just ahead of his time as a criminal—he was ahead of his time in style.”
This is not the first time Capone’s lavish timepiece has appeared at auction. In 2021, it was sold alongside other personal items—including his diamond tie bar and favourite Colt .45 pistol—by his descendants through Witherells, a California-based auction house. Estimated at $25,000 to $50,000, the watch far exceeded expectations, fetching $229,900.
While the dial shows signs of age and the minute hand is missing, the watch remains a compelling piece of Americana. It’s less a horological grail than a conversation-starting symbol of 20th-century notoriety and excess. Today, collectors tend to frown upon aftermarket diamonds, especially in vintage watches—but this piece is a bold exception. Capone’s customised pocket watch stands as a testament to his legacy: extravagant, defiant, and unmistakably iconic.