diamonds

Diamond-Encrusted Timepieces: Haute Horology at Its Most Dazzling

Diamond-set watches from Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Graff represent the pinnacle of high jewellery watchmaking. With dials, cases and bracelets lavishly adorned with hundreds sometimes thousands of diamonds, these exceptional creations are true show-stoppers, blending technical mastery with extraordinary gem-setting artistry.

Both bold and refined, these spectacular ladies’ timepieces come from some of the world’s most prestigious watch and jewellery maisons. Almost entirely cloaked in diamonds, they are designed to command attention while maintaining an unmistakable sense of elegance.

Cartier’s iconic Baignoire watch traces its origins back to 1958, when it was first introduced as the Ovale cintre. Officially renamed in 1973, the modern mini jewellery version features a quartz movement and is set with hundreds of brilliant-cut diamonds, reaffirming its status as a timeless symbol of refined luxury.

Graff’s Tilda’s Bow diamond watch adds a distinctly feminine flourish. Accented by a graceful ribbon-inspired motif on one side, this statement piece features a pavé-set dial and a triple-row diamond bracelet, seamlessly combining softness with striking brilliance.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s platinum 101 Secrets watch transcends both trends and seasons. Concealing a delicate mother-of-pearl dial, the piece is embellished with more than 1,000 diamonds meticulously set along the bracelet and case sides—an extraordinary demonstration of precision and craftsmanship.

Van Cleef & Arpels draws inspiration from the Art Deco “white period” of the 1930s with its À Cheval high jewellery watch. Reflecting the era’s preference for white gold paired with diamonds, the design pays homage to a defining moment in jewellery history, favouring refined monochrome elegance over the coloured gemstones of earlier decades.

Together, these diamond-encrusted watches showcase the seamless union of haute joaillerie and fine watchmaking—where time is measured not only in seconds, but in brilliance and craftsmanship.

Paraiba Tiffany Necklace Sets New World Record at Christie’s New York

A spectacular Tiffany & Co. necklace has made auction history, achieving a record-setting USD $4.2 million and establishing a new world auction record for a Paraiba tourmaline. The piece sold for more than seven times its high estimate during Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale on 10 December in New York.

The centrepiece of the necklace is an exceptional 13.54-carat triangular modified brilliant-cut Paraiba tourmaline, accented by an array of round, pear, and square-shaped diamonds. Paraiba tourmalines of this size and saturation remain among the rarest gemstones in the world, and the extraordinary result underscores the continued strength of the coloured-gemstone market.

Christie’s reported an impressive 95% sell-through rate, with the auction realising USD $46.5 million. High-value pieces from renowned maisons such as Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, and Tiffany & Co. all attracted strong global demand.

Below are the top-performing lots from the sale:

Top 10 Jewels at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Auction

1. Paraiba Tourmaline Tiffany & Co. Necklace
Final price: $4.2 million
Estimate: $300,000 – $600,000
A 13.54-carat Paraiba tourmaline with diamond accents — now a world-record holder.

2. Antique Kashmir Sapphire Earrings (circa 1910)
Final price: $3.1 million
Estimate: $1.5 million – $2 million
Featuring 11.92-carat and 12.61-carat cushion mixed-cut Kashmir sapphires suspended from old-cut diamonds.

3. Art Deco Cartier Ring (Rockefeller Kashmir Sapphire, circa 1925)
Final price: $2.6 million
Estimate: $1.5 million – $2.5 million
Centred on the celebrated 17.66-carat sugarloaf cabochon Kashmir sapphire.

4. D-Colour, VS1, 27.19-Carat Type IIa Diamond Ring
Final price: $1.9 million
Estimate: $1.4 million – $1.8 million
A rare type IIa diamond in classic emerald cut.

5. 16.23-Carat Kashmir Sapphire Ring
Final price: $1.8 million
Estimate: $500,000 – $700,000
A dramatic result for a cushion mixed-cut Kashmir sapphire surrounded by old-cut diamonds.

6. Tiffany & Co. Paraiba Tourmaline Earrings
Final price: $1.3 million
Estimate: $120,000 – $180,000
Two oval modified brilliant-cut Paraiba gems of 3.19 and 3.45 carats — another major Paraiba surprise.

7. Cartier Ring with 23.03-Carat D, VVS2 Step-Cut Diamond
Final price: $1.1 million
Estimate: $800,000 – $1.2 million
Featuring a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut diamond flanked by trapezoid stones.

8. Barbara & Frank Sinatra Diamond Ring
Final price: $990,600
Estimate: $800,000 – $1.2 million
Showcasing a 20.60-carat emerald-cut D, VVS1 diamond between triangular side stones.

9. Multi-Stone Diamond Earrings
Final price: $863,600
Estimate: $500,000 – $700,000
Each earring includes three pear-shaped diamonds, the largest being an 11.36-carat D VS2 and a 9.96-carat E VS1.

10. JAR Ruby and Diamond Earrings
Final price: $787,400
Estimate: $400,000 – $600,000
Designed with cushion, oval, pear, and round rubies surrounded by diamonds.

What This Means for the Market

The exceptional performance of Paraiba tourmaline and Kashmir sapphire pieces highlights continued buyer appetite for rare, high-quality coloured gemstones, particularly those with strong provenance or iconic branding. Record prices at auction also reaffirm the importance of independent grading and authentication, an area where the DCLA remains Australia’s trusted authority.

Lab-Grown Diamonds Surge in Popularity, Both Globally and in Australia

Lab-grown diamonds are transforming the global jewellery market and Australia is no exception. What began as a value-driven alternative is now a major contributor to sales growth for leading jewellers around the world.

Signet Jewelers parent company of retail chains Kay Jewelers, Zales and Jared recently reported 6% same-store sales growth, largely fuelled by strong demand for fashion and bridal jewellery featuring lab-grown diamonds (LGDs). Today, LGDs represent around 40% of Signet’s bridal diamond sales, proving just how quickly consumer preferences are shifting.

This growth is driven by simple customer logic:
Larger stones. Greater brilliance. Lower cost.
Ethically and environmentally responsible.
Exceptional value at key gifting price points.

Retailers are seeing customers choose bigger, higher-quality stones because LGDs allow them to upgrade without increasing their budget a trend transforming both the bridal and fashion jewellery categories.

The Australian Lab-Grown Diamond Boom

Australia is now one of the world’s fastest-growing markets for certified laboratory-grown diamonds. Engagement ring buyers and fine jewellery lovers alike are turning toward lab-created stones that offer:

Certified quality
Significant savings compared to natural diamonds
A conflict-free, sustainable choice
Access to premium size and sparkle

Demand has risen sharply in the last 18 months as Australians search for better value in a higher-interest-rate economy while still wanting beautiful luxury pieces.

Why Buy Lab-Grown Diamonds from DCLA?

With rapid growth comes the increasing importance of credible certification. This is where the Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) leads the market.

DCLA is Australia’s official CIBJO-accredited diamond laboratory
Every diamond is independently graded in Sydney
Transparent, trusted certification standards no inflated grades or misleading claims

Through the DCLA Diamond Exchange, buyers can purchase certified lab-grown diamonds directly, ensuring:

Authentic grading from Australia’s most trusted authority

Competitive prices without retail mark-ups

Expert support when selecting the perfect stone

Secure local service and delivery

Whether upgrading to a bigger stone or choosing your first diamond, the DCLA Diamond Exchange offers unmatched confidence, value and peace of mind.

The Future Is Bright and Lab-Grown

As global retailers continue to expand their lab-grown diamond offerings and consumers embrace the beauty and value of LGDs, the category is expected to keep gaining market share particularly in the fast-growing fashion jewellery segment.

Here in Australia, buyers are becoming more educated and discerning. They want quality, certification and true value making DCLA-certified lab-grown diamonds the smartest choice.

Discover Australia’s most trusted source for certified lab-grown diamonds:
The DCLA DiamondExchange Where Quality Comes First.

How Efforts to Control the Diamond Trade Are Hurting the Very Communities They Were Supposed to Protect

For more than two decades, global policies aimed at restricting the flow of diamonds from conflict zones most notably through the “blood diamond” narrative have reshaped the way diamonds are traded. These measures were intended to protect vulnerable communities in Africa from exploitation and violence. But today, the ripple effects of those same restrictions are being felt thousands of kilometres away, exposing the fragility of a supply chain that depends on the livelihoods of millions.

In India’s diamond capital of Surat, where an estimated 80% of the world’s diamonds are cut and polished, workers like Alpesh Bhai once saw diamonds as a pathway out of poverty. The industry offered stability, income, and, for the first time, the promise of private education for their children.

That progress has since been jeopardised.

A Perfect Storm of Restrictions and Sanctions

First, sanctions targeting Russian rough diamonds disrupted supply a supply which, for India, had been essential. Then came the imposition of 50% United States tariffs on polished diamonds, compounding the downturn.

The intention behind these measures from conflict-diamond controls in Africa to punitive trade tools against Russia has been to hold powerful actors accountable. Instead, the burden has fallen hardest on those with the least power in the chain: cutters, polishers, and their families.

Alpesh, once earning enough to support education for his two young daughters, saw his salary cut nearly in half before losing his job altogether. Private schooling quickly became unaffordable. He withdrew his children and moved them into a public school where learning opportunities are significantly limited.

“I’ve come back to where I started,” he said a sentiment now echoed across Surat.

The Human Cost Behind Supply Chain Pressure

Surat’s diamond sector employs over 600,000 people, many migrants from rural Gujarat who rely entirely on this trade. Layoffs, pay cuts, and reduced working hours have affected close to 400,000 workers.

Families are leaving the city. Children are dropping out of school. In the most tragic cases, mounting financial pressure has led to a rise in worker suicides.

Community leaders describe the situation as unprecedented. “The industry was always a ladder out of poverty,” one union representative explained. “Now that ladder is shaking for many, it’s disappearing.”

A Stark Reminder for the Diamond World

Conversations about responsible sourcing must include responsibility to all those in the value chain including cutters and polishers who transform rough diamonds into the beautiful stones valued globally.

Policies crafted to protect African workers from exploitation have, ironically, become a new form of harm both in Africa, where mining communities still struggle, and now in India, where workers are paying the price for geopolitical decisions far beyond their control.

As the global diamond market continues to evolve, one thing is clear:

Ensuring the ethical integrity of diamonds must not stop at the mine.
It must extend to every skilled hand that shapes them and every child whose future depends on this industry.

DCLA Transparent Certification and Shared Responsibility

Florentine Diamond: Austrian Government Weighs Legal Claim

Austria has convened a panel of experts to assess whether the government has a legitimate claim to the 137.27-carat Florentine Diamond, which resurfaced last month after vanishing for a century.

The newly established Florentine Commission will examine whether the gem belongs to the Austrian state or remains the private property of the Habsburg family.

The diamond, set in a brooch, was taken to Switzerland in 1918, along with other royal jewels, as the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed and the imperial family fled into exile. Empress Zita, widow of Emperor Karl I, later deposited the collection in a bank vault in Quebec, Canada – an act kept secret for generations.

Only two of her sons, Robert and Rodolphe, were told of its location, under instructions that the hiding place must remain undisclosed for 100 years after Karl’s death in 1922.

With the diamond’s whereabouts finally revealed, the central question is who owns it.

The First Austrian Republic, created in 1919 after the fall of the monarchy, claimed all Habsburg assets under the Habsburg Law. However, it remains unclear whether that law extended to property already removed from Austrian territory.

The Florentine Commission held its first meeting last Thursday (4 December) and is expected to issue its findings by fall 2026. In a statement the Austrian government described the jewels as having been “taken from the treasury” and “taken abroad”.

The Habsburg family’s position depends on whether the diamonds can be proven to have been classified as personal possessions before the monarchy was abolished. Conversely, Austria must show that the Florentine Diamond was officially part of the state regaliaâ€”and that the 1919 law applied to items no longer inside Austria.

The family has said it does not plan to sell the Florentine Diamond, but intends for it to go on public display at a museum in Canada.

Source: IDEX

32ct ‘Desert Rose’ Diamond Sets Auction Record in Abu Dhabi

A remarkable 32-carat fancy vivid orangy-pink diamond has achieved a new auction record at Sotheby’s inaugural Collectors’ Week in Abu Dhabi. The stone, known as the Desert Rose, sold for $8.8 million, exceeding its high estimate of $7 million.

The pear-shaped, 31.68-carat, VVS1-clarity diamond presented unmounted headlined the Precision & Brilliance: Prestigious Jewels & Watches from an Important Private Collection sale on 5 December. Sotheby’s confirmed it is now the most valuable orangy-pink diamond ever sold at auction.

Collectors’ Week featured five curated sales spanning luxury categories including automobiles, real estate, handbags, watches, and high jewellery, marking a major milestone for Sotheby’s presence in the UAE.

The remaining top jewellery lots included:

Tiffany & Co. Kashmir Sapphire Ring
A 5.61-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire with round-diamond accents achieved $596,900, above its $550,000 high estimate.
Boucheron Colombian Emerald Ring
Featuring a 7.88-carat emerald framed by 14 pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds, this piece sold for $508,000, slightly above expectations.
Cartier Colombian Emerald Ring
Centred with a 4-carat step-cut emerald and flanked by pear-shaped diamonds, the ring reached $495,300, well beyond its $350,000 upper estimate.
Fancy Colour Diamond Ear Clips
Set with 14 pear-shaped diamonds including D- to F-colour stones and fancy pink and fancy green gems the pair fetched $215,900, surpassing its $200,000 high estimate.

Other Top Jewellery Highlights

Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 Set
A complete set of four double-dialled clock watches in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum realised $11.9 million, achieving expectations.

Rolex Daytona “Albino” (circa 1971)
An exceptionally rare model sold for $952,500, narrowly missing its upper estimate.

Kim Kardashian Wears High-Value Diamonds to Paris Robbery Trial in Defiant Statement

Kim Kardashian has made a powerful return to wearing high-value diamonds, attending the Paris robbery trial this year adorned in a selection of exceptional jewellery pieces — a symbolic reclaiming of personal confidence after the traumatic 2016 incident in which approximately US$10 million worth of her jewellery was stolen.

In the latest episode of The Kardashians, Kardashian reflected on her decision to testify in Paris, supported by Kris Jenner and longtime friend Simone Harouche. The trio recounted the night of the robbery, describing the fear and uncertainty they faced as events unfolded.

Kardashian chose a vintage black John Galliano blazer dress for her court appearance, accessorised with a number of prestigious diamond pieces, including a Samer Halimeh diamond necklace valued at an estimated US$3 million, jewellery by Repossi and Briony Raymond, and a 22-carat Lorraine Schwartz diamond ring — re-acquired using insurance proceeds from the original theft.

Despite concerns raised by legal representatives regarding the presentation of such significant jewellery at the trial, Kardashian expressed a strong desire to maintain her sense of identity and autonomy. She noted that, for several years following the event, she avoided wearing diamonds entirely due to the trauma associated with the attack.

Kardashian stated that her choice to wear diamonds to the trial symbolises not only a personal milestone but a refusal to allow the actions of the perpetrators to dictate her life any longer. The reality star emphasised that reclaiming her confidence through jewellery was an intentional and empowering step forward.

Historic Fabergé Egg Encrusted with Diamonds Sets New World Record

A rare imperial Fabergé masterpiece lavishly adorned with platinum and 4,500 diamonds has achieved a remarkable £22.9 million at auction in London, establishing a new world record for any Fabergé artwork.

The famed Winter Egg was commissioned in 1913 by Emperor Nicholas II of Russia as an Easter gift for his mother, Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna. Considered one of the most spectacular creations by the House of Fabergé, the piece showcases masterful artistry: a flawless rock crystal shell, intricately engraved to resemble winter frost, embellished with a delicate snowflake motif and shimmering diamonds.

Christie’s confirmed that the £22,895,000 sale price surpasses the previous Fabergé auction record by more than £13 million a benchmark also set by Christie’s in 2007 with the sale of the Rothschild Egg for £8.9 million. Remarkably, this is the third time the Winter Egg has broken the world record for a Fabergé creation.

“Today’s result reaffirms the enduring significance of this masterpiece, celebrating the rarity and brilliance of what is widely regarded as one of Fabergé’s finest creations,”
said Margo Oganesian, Christie’s Head of Fabergé & Russian Works of Art.

Only a limited number of Imperial Eggs remain in private ownership, making this sale a landmark moment for collectors and institutions worldwide.

A Tumultuous Century of Provenance

Following the fall of the Russian monarchy in 1917, the Winter Egg was moved to the Kremlin Armoury and later included in Soviet sales of royal treasures during the 1920s.

Over its journey through history:

Purchased by Wartski of London in the early 20th century for just £450

Sold privately in 1934 for £1,500

Considered lost between 1975–1994

Re-emerged at Christie’s in 1994, achieving a record 7,263,500 Swiss francs (£6.8 million)

Set a new record once more in 2002 at $9,579,000 (£7.1 million)

Today’s sale firmly cements its status as one of the most coveted objets d’art ever created.

Celebrating Excellence in Diamond Craftsmanship

With its extraordinary diamond detail and technical precision, the Winter Egg continues to define the pinnacle of artisanal luxury. Each stone carefully set into platinum reflects the superior craftsmanship that has made Fabergé synonymous with imperial elegance.

For DCLA, iconic pieces such as this highlight the enduring importance of diamond quality, authentication, and expert certification ensuring that history and value are preserved for future generations.

Understanding Ring Profiles: The Small Detail That Changes Everything

When selecting a gold or platinum ring, most people focus on the metal, the width, or the diamond — but the ring profile, the shape of the band’s cross-section, is one of the most important design elements.
It determines comfort, aesthetic, and long-term durability.

Below is a guide to the most trusted profiles used in high-quality gold and platinum wedding bands and diamond rings:

Soft Square

A modern geometric look with softened edges. Ideal for those wanting a contemporary design without compromising comfort.

Flat Profile

Clean, minimal and architectural. Flat profiles suit platinum especially well for a sharp, modern finish.

Knife Edge

A sculptural style featuring a raised ridge along the centre. Creates striking light reflection, often chosen for elegant gold and platinum solitaires.

D Section / Half-Round

The traditional wedding band profile. Rounded on the outside and flat on the inside — timeless and refined.

Double Comfort

Fully rounded on both surfaces, offering exceptional comfort. Ideal for wider gold or platinum bands worn daily.

Court Profile (Comfort Fit)

The world’s most popular profile. A softly curved interior ensures easy wear and a secure, comfortable fit.

Flat-Sided Court

Straight outer edges combined with a comfort-fit inner curve. A modern aesthetic with superior comfort.

Flat Court

A flat exterior paired with the comfort-fit interior. Clean, contemporary, and perfectly balanced.

Why the Profile Matters

All-day comfort
Defines style — classic or contemporary
Affects weight, feel, and long-term durability
Ensures a perfect match when worn with other rings

A small design choice — but it makes a remarkable difference in how your gold or platinum ring looks, feels, and lasts.

Lab Grown Workers Strike in “Misunderstanding” on Pay

Hundreds of polishers at Greenlab, recognized as India’s largest lab-grown diamond producer, walked out last Friday (28 November) in a row over wages.

They gathered at the gates of the factory in Surat following reports that their per-carat fee was to be reduced.

But they returned to work a few hours later after management sent out voice messages assuring them there would be no cut.

A Greenlab director described the incident as a “small misunderstanding,” triggered by misinformation during internal discussions on inventory and other business issues.

Bhavesh Tank, vice president of the Diamond Workers’ Union Gujarat, told the Indian Express: “After Diwali, a growth is seen in the demand of the lab grown diamond industry in the domestic and international market.

“The company’s owners should also ensure that the diamond workers, who have been facing financial problems over the last couple of years due to poor market demand, are paid sufficient salaries when the market is in good condition.”

Unions say many workers’ wages have not kept up with living costs, and that both natural and lab-grown units have seen friction over sudden changes in per-carat rates and job losses tied to swings in export demand.

Greenlab operates across the chain, growing rough lab growns, cutting and polishing them, and setting them in finished jewelry for both Indian and export markets.

It famously manufactured the 7.5-carat lab grown diamond that India’s prime minister Narendra Modi gifted to US First Lady Jill Biden in June 2023.

The company sells its polished diamonds through its US subsidiary, Labon, and has a distribution partnership with Florida-based Green Rocks.

Source: IDEX