Florentine Diamond: Austrian Government Weighs Legal Claim

137.27-carat Florentine Diamond

Austria has convened a panel of experts to assess whether the government has a legitimate claim to the 137.27-carat Florentine Diamond, which resurfaced last month after vanishing for a century.

The newly established Florentine Commission will examine whether the gem belongs to the Austrian state or remains the private property of the Habsburg family.

The diamond, set in a brooch, was taken to Switzerland in 1918, along with other royal jewels, as the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed and the imperial family fled into exile. Empress Zita, widow of Emperor Karl I, later deposited the collection in a bank vault in Quebec, Canada – an act kept secret for generations.

Only two of her sons, Robert and Rodolphe, were told of its location, under instructions that the hiding place must remain undisclosed for 100 years after Karl’s death in 1922.

With the diamond’s whereabouts finally revealed, the central question is who owns it.

The First Austrian Republic, created in 1919 after the fall of the monarchy, claimed all Habsburg assets under the Habsburg Law. However, it remains unclear whether that law extended to property already removed from Austrian territory.

The Florentine Commission held its first meeting last Thursday (4 December) and is expected to issue its findings by fall 2026. In a statement the Austrian government described the jewels as having been “taken from the treasury” and “taken abroad”.

The Habsburg family’s position depends on whether the diamonds can be proven to have been classified as personal possessions before the monarchy was abolished. Conversely, Austria must show that the Florentine Diamond was officially part of the state regalia—and that the 1919 law applied to items no longer inside Austria.

The family has said it does not plan to sell the Florentine Diamond, but intends for it to go on public display at a museum in Canada.

Source: IDEX

32ct ‘Desert Rose’ Diamond Sets Auction Record in Abu Dhabi

32-carat fancy vivid orangy-pink diamond

A remarkable 32-carat fancy vivid orangy-pink diamond has achieved a new auction record at Sotheby’s inaugural Collectors’ Week in Abu Dhabi. The stone, known as the Desert Rose, sold for $8.8 million, exceeding its high estimate of $7 million.

The pear-shaped, 31.68-carat, VVS1-clarity diamond presented unmounted headlined the Precision & Brilliance: Prestigious Jewels & Watches from an Important Private Collection sale on 5 December. Sotheby’s confirmed it is now the most valuable orangy-pink diamond ever sold at auction.

Collectors’ Week featured five curated sales spanning luxury categories including automobiles, real estate, handbags, watches, and high jewellery, marking a major milestone for Sotheby’s presence in the UAE.

The remaining top jewellery lots included:

  • Tiffany & Co. Kashmir Sapphire Ring
    A 5.61-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire with round-diamond accents achieved $596,900, above its $550,000 high estimate.
  • Boucheron Colombian Emerald Ring
    Featuring a 7.88-carat emerald framed by 14 pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds, this piece sold for $508,000, slightly above expectations.
  • Cartier Colombian Emerald Ring
    Centred with a 4-carat step-cut emerald and flanked by pear-shaped diamonds, the ring reached $495,300, well beyond its $350,000 upper estimate.
  • Fancy Colour Diamond Ear Clips
    Set with 14 pear-shaped diamonds including D- to F-colour stones and fancy pink and fancy green gems the pair fetched $215,900, surpassing its $200,000 high estimate.

Other Top Jewellery Highlights

Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 Set
A complete set of four double-dialled clock watches in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum realised $11.9 million, achieving expectations.

Rolex Daytona “Albino” (circa 1971)
An exceptionally rare model sold for $952,500, narrowly missing its upper estimate.

Kim Kardashian Wears High-Value Diamonds to Paris Robbery Trial in Defiant Statement

Kim Kardashian

Kim Kardashian has made a powerful return to wearing high-value diamonds, attending the Paris robbery trial this year adorned in a selection of exceptional jewellery pieces — a symbolic reclaiming of personal confidence after the traumatic 2016 incident in which approximately US$10 million worth of her jewellery was stolen.

In the latest episode of The Kardashians, Kardashian reflected on her decision to testify in Paris, supported by Kris Jenner and longtime friend Simone Harouche. The trio recounted the night of the robbery, describing the fear and uncertainty they faced as events unfolded.

Kardashian chose a vintage black John Galliano blazer dress for her court appearance, accessorised with a number of prestigious diamond pieces, including a Samer Halimeh diamond necklace valued at an estimated US$3 million, jewellery by Repossi and Briony Raymond, and a 22-carat Lorraine Schwartz diamond ring — re-acquired using insurance proceeds from the original theft.

Despite concerns raised by legal representatives regarding the presentation of such significant jewellery at the trial, Kardashian expressed a strong desire to maintain her sense of identity and autonomy. She noted that, for several years following the event, she avoided wearing diamonds entirely due to the trauma associated with the attack.

Kardashian stated that her choice to wear diamonds to the trial symbolises not only a personal milestone but a refusal to allow the actions of the perpetrators to dictate her life any longer. The reality star emphasised that reclaiming her confidence through jewellery was an intentional and empowering step forward.

Historic Fabergé Egg Encrusted with Diamonds Sets New World Record

A rare imperial Fabergé masterpiece

A rare imperial Fabergé masterpiece lavishly adorned with platinum and 4,500 diamonds has achieved a remarkable £22.9 million at auction in London, establishing a new world record for any Fabergé artwork.

The famed Winter Egg was commissioned in 1913 by Emperor Nicholas II of Russia as an Easter gift for his mother, Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna. Considered one of the most spectacular creations by the House of Fabergé, the piece showcases masterful artistry: a flawless rock crystal shell, intricately engraved to resemble winter frost, embellished with a delicate snowflake motif and shimmering diamonds.

Christie’s confirmed that the £22,895,000 sale price surpasses the previous Fabergé auction record by more than £13 million a benchmark also set by Christie’s in 2007 with the sale of the Rothschild Egg for £8.9 million. Remarkably, this is the third time the Winter Egg has broken the world record for a Fabergé creation.

“Today’s result reaffirms the enduring significance of this masterpiece, celebrating the rarity and brilliance of what is widely regarded as one of Fabergé’s finest creations,”
said Margo Oganesian, Christie’s Head of Fabergé & Russian Works of Art.

Only a limited number of Imperial Eggs remain in private ownership, making this sale a landmark moment for collectors and institutions worldwide.

A Tumultuous Century of Provenance

Following the fall of the Russian monarchy in 1917, the Winter Egg was moved to the Kremlin Armoury and later included in Soviet sales of royal treasures during the 1920s.

Over its journey through history:

Purchased by Wartski of London in the early 20th century for just £450

Sold privately in 1934 for £1,500

Considered lost between 1975–1994

Re-emerged at Christie’s in 1994, achieving a record 7,263,500 Swiss francs (£6.8 million)

Set a new record once more in 2002 at $9,579,000 (£7.1 million)

Today’s sale firmly cements its status as one of the most coveted objets d’art ever created.

Celebrating Excellence in Diamond Craftsmanship

With its extraordinary diamond detail and technical precision, the Winter Egg continues to define the pinnacle of artisanal luxury. Each stone carefully set into platinum reflects the superior craftsmanship that has made Fabergé synonymous with imperial elegance.

For DCLA, iconic pieces such as this highlight the enduring importance of diamond quality, authentication, and expert certification ensuring that history and value are preserved for future generations.

Understanding Ring Profiles: The Small Detail That Changes Everything

Wedding band Ring Profiles

When selecting a gold or platinum ring, most people focus on the metal, the width, or the diamond — but the ring profile, the shape of the band’s cross-section, is one of the most important design elements.
It determines comfort, aesthetic, and long-term durability.

Below is a guide to the most trusted profiles used in high-quality gold and platinum wedding bands and diamond rings:

Soft Square

A modern geometric look with softened edges. Ideal for those wanting a contemporary design without compromising comfort.

Flat Profile

Clean, minimal and architectural. Flat profiles suit platinum especially well for a sharp, modern finish.

Knife Edge

A sculptural style featuring a raised ridge along the centre. Creates striking light reflection, often chosen for elegant gold and platinum solitaires.

D Section / Half-Round

The traditional wedding band profile. Rounded on the outside and flat on the inside — timeless and refined.

Double Comfort

Fully rounded on both surfaces, offering exceptional comfort. Ideal for wider gold or platinum bands worn daily.

Court Profile (Comfort Fit)

The world’s most popular profile. A softly curved interior ensures easy wear and a secure, comfortable fit.

Flat-Sided Court

Straight outer edges combined with a comfort-fit inner curve. A modern aesthetic with superior comfort.

Flat Court

A flat exterior paired with the comfort-fit interior. Clean, contemporary, and perfectly balanced.


Why the Profile Matters

All-day comfort
Defines style — classic or contemporary
Affects weight, feel, and long-term durability
Ensures a perfect match when worn with other rings

A small design choice — but it makes a remarkable difference in how your gold or platinum ring looks, feels, and lasts.

Lab Grown Workers Strike in “Misunderstanding” on Pay

Greenlab lab diamonds

Hundreds of polishers at Greenlab, recognized as India’s largest lab-grown diamond producer, walked out last Friday (28 November) in a row over wages.

They gathered at the gates of the factory in Surat following reports that their per-carat fee was to be reduced.

But they returned to work a few hours later after management sent out voice messages assuring them there would be no cut.

A Greenlab director described the incident as a “small misunderstanding,” triggered by misinformation during internal discussions on inventory and other business issues.

Bhavesh Tank, vice president of the Diamond Workers’ Union Gujarat, told the Indian Express: “After Diwali, a growth is seen in the demand of the lab grown diamond industry in the domestic and international market.

“The company’s owners should also ensure that the diamond workers, who have been facing financial problems over the last couple of years due to poor market demand, are paid sufficient salaries when the market is in good condition.”

Unions say many workers’ wages have not kept up with living costs, and that both natural and lab-grown units have seen friction over sudden changes in per-carat rates and job losses tied to swings in export demand.

Greenlab operates across the chain, growing rough lab growns, cutting and polishing them, and setting them in finished jewelry for both Indian and export markets.

It famously manufactured the 7.5-carat lab grown diamond that India’s prime minister Narendra Modi gifted to US First Lady Jill Biden in June 2023.

The company sells its polished diamonds through its US subsidiary, Labon, and has a distribution partnership with Florida-based Green Rocks.

Source: IDEX

J.Lo, Four-Times Divorced, Promotes Engagement Rings

Jennifer Lopez

Jennifer Lopez, who has been married and divorced four times, is advertising diamond engagement rings for Turkish manufacturer Zen Diamond.

The 56-year-old actress and singer is being $10m for the promotion, which also includes necklaces, earrings and other items, according to the New York Post’s Page Six gossip column.

That’s hardly a life-changer for J.Lo, an astute businesswoman who has amassed a fortune estimated at $400m (and who is used to far bigger paychecks).

She also has an enviable collection of engagement rings, six in all. She married Cuban model Ojani Noa (1997-8); dancer and choreographer Cris Judd (2001-3); singer/songwriter Marc Anthony (2004-14) and Ben Affleck (2022-4).

She received additional engagement rings from husband number four Ben Affleck, who first proposed in 2002, and from former New York Yankees star Alex Rodriguez in 2019.

Zen Diamond’s advertising campaign featuring Jennifer Lopez launched in early November, primarily on Instagram and YouTube, as well as the brand’s official websites and international news outlets.

Company chairman Emil Guzelis said: “Her energy and charisma perfectly reflect Zen’s vision and the spirit of our jewelry. This collaboration represents a new chapter in our brand’s international growth story.”

Zen Diamond and traces it roots back to 1906. It has wholesale branches in New York, Antwerp, and Dubai, 175 stores worldwide and 850 staff working in Istanbul at what it describes as “Europe’s largest diamond jewelry production facility”.

Source: IDEX

Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Necklace Achieves $16.1M at Christie’s Hong Kong

Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Necklace

A magnificent sapphire and diamond necklace was the star of Christie’s recent Magnificent Jewels auction in Hong Kong, realising HKD 125.5 million (USD 16.1 million) and comfortably landing within its estimated range.

The centrepiece features 16 antique, cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphires, ranging from 3.43 to 13.37 carats—coveted for their velvety saturation and rarity. Each sapphire is framed by an array of D–F colour, internally flawless to VS1 diamonds, with a combined diamond weight of 121.81 carats.
According to Christie’s, the necklace dominated the 25 November sale and drew significant attention from collectors seeking exceptional provenance and craftsmanship.

The auction totalled HKD 538.1 million (USD 69.1 million), showcasing important creations from renowned maisons including Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, and JAR.


Top 10 Lots from the Sale

1. Burmese Ruby “Red Butterfly” Earrings — HKD 25.5M (USD 3.3M)

Designed as vibrant red butterflies, these earrings feature oval Burmese rubies of 2.03, 2.11, 5.01, and 5.05 carats, set alongside pear- and marquise-cut diamonds. The pair sold within its presale estimate.

2. Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Earrings — HKD 24.9M (USD 3.2M)

Showcasing four cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphires weighing 2.28–7.90 carats, accented by round and pear-cut diamonds, this pair also achieved its projected price range.

3. Diamond Rivière Necklace — HKD 22.1M (USD 2.8M)

A classic rivière design set with 25 diamonds (E–I colour), totalling 88.14 carats. The necklace includes five outstanding round brilliants weighing 8.57, 10.01, 12.86, 13.81, and 31.71 carats.

4. Cartier Tutti Frutti Necklace and Brooch — HKD 19.4M (USD 2.5M)

This iconic multi-gem suite features carved emeralds, sapphires, and rubies, complemented by cabochon beads and round diamonds. The result aligned with expectations.

5. 12.86-Carat Fancy Orangey-Pink Diamond — HKD 18.6M (USD 2.4M)

An unmounted round brilliant, VVS2 clarity and Fancy Orangey Pink colouration—a rare combination—fetched its forecasted price.

6. Art Deco Multi-Gem Cartier Bracelet (c. 1925) — HKD 16.4M (USD 2.1M)

Set with jadeite cabochons, a star sapphire, carved rubies and sapphires, enamel, and old-cut diamonds, this 1920s piece surged to nearly triple its high estimate.

7. 30.87-Carat D-Colour Heart-Shape Diamond Necklace — HKD 16.1M (USD 2.1M)

Featuring a detachable Type IIa, D-colour, VVS1 heart-shaped diamond, this versatile jewel achieved slightly above its lower estimate.

8. Boehmer et Bassenge Diamond Earrings — HKD 12.7M (USD 1.6M)

The earrings include two oval D-colour stones: an 11.03-carat internally flawless diamond and an 11.13-carat flawless diamond, suspended from round and marquise diamonds. The lot exceeded its high estimate.

9. Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Ring — HKD 10.9M (USD 1.4M)

An emerald-cut 10.39-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond, VVS1 clarity, accompanied by round diamond shoulders, outperformed its HKD 6.8 million estimate.


Why This Matters to the Australian Market

High-profile auction results continue to highlight global demand for rare gemstones—particularly Kashmir sapphires, high-colour diamonds, and historically significant Cartier pieces.
As Australia’s only internationally accredited diamond laboratory, DCLA recognises how transparent, scientifically rigorous grading underpins confidence in the global secondary market. These results reinforce the premium commanded by stones with verified origin, colour, clarity, and craftsmanship.

BHP Walks Away from Last-Ditch Bid for Anglo American

Perth, Australia Brookfield Place office tower with BHP offices

Mining giant BHP has walked away from a last-ditch attempt takeover bid for Anglo American, parent company of De Beers.

It announced on Sunday (23 November) that it was “no longer considering a combination of the two companies”.

Melbourne-based BHP made hostile bids for Anglo in April and May 2024, both of which failed.

The move prompted loss-making Anglo to start streamlining its operations, to divest some unprofitable activities, including its diamond division, De Beers and to focus on copper and other money-making assets.

Anglo had hoped to complete the sale of De Beers by the end of this year, but despite intense interest, from the Botswana government among others, that has yet to happen.

BHP renewed its bid primarily to disrupt Anglo American’s planned $53 billion merger with Canadian miner Teck Resources, which is expected to go ahead on 9 December

Source: IDEX

Couples Embrace Lab-Grown Diamonds as Engagement Trends Evolve for 2025

Lab-Grown Diamonds

Australia’s engagement ring landscape is undergoing a rapid transformation, with new data revealing that 70% of couples are now choosing lab-grown diamonds a significant 14% jump from 2024. The findings reflect a global shift, but the trend is particularly strong in Australia, where transparency, value, and ethical sourcing have become central to purchasing decisions.

Bespoke jeweller Taylor & Hart reports that the surge is driven by a “growing demand for sustainability, ethical sourcing and better value,” sentiments that strongly mirror what Australian consumers have been telling jewellers and grading laboratories. With the cost of living rising and buyers becoming more informed, many couples are discovering that lab-grown diamonds offer a larger, higher-quality stone at a more accessible price point, without compromising on brilliance or beauty.

Bigger Diamonds, Better Value

The research shows that the average carat weight for engagement rings has increased from 1.30ct in 2024 to 1.75ct in 2025. This preference for larger stones is especially notable in Australia, where consumers are increasingly prioritising standout centre stones supported by accredited, independent certification.

As Australia’s only CIBJO-accredited laboratory, the Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) continues to emphasise the importance of reliable, independent grading for both natural and lab-grown diamonds. With the rise in lab-grown popularity, ensuring accurate grading particularly for colour, clarity, and cut quality has become more essential than ever.

Oval Cuts Reign Supreme

When it comes to shapes, oval diamonds have maintained their position as Australia’s most in-demand cut, surpassing the traditional round brilliant for yet another year. Ovals offer exceptional finger coverage, a timeless silhouette, and a modern flair qualities that strongly appeal to today’s couples.

Celebrities continue to influence Australian buyers, with high-profile engagements featuring oval diamonds dominating social media and bridal inspiration boards. Georgina Rodríguez’s dramatic oval diamond, Winnie Harlow’s striking 8.5-carat centre stone, and earlier icons such as Hailey Bieber, Kourtney Kardashian, Blake Lively, and Lady Gaga have all contributed to the shape’s enduring popularity.

This influence is reflected in purchasing trends, with Taylor & Hart noting that the average oval diamond chosen in 2025 has increased to 1.75ct, up from 1.30ct the year prior.

What This Means for Australian Buyers

Australia’s diamond market is becoming increasingly sophisticated, with more consumers seeking:

  • Ethical and transparent sourcing
  • Value-driven purchasing options
  • Larger, beautifully cut stones
  • Independent certification they can trust

At DCLA, we welcome this shift toward informed, responsible purchasing. Whether choosing a natural diamond or lab-grown diamond, buyers deserve fully transparent, independently verified grading—and a clear understanding of what they’re investing in.

As trends continue to evolve, one thing remains constant: Australian couples are rewriting tradition in ways that prioritise authenticity, expression, and ethical choice—values that align strongly with the future of the diamond industry.