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Diamond Buyers Guide

View our quick tips for buyers here

The word diamond comes from the Greek term adamas, meaning unconquerable. Every diamond is unique. Diamonds symbolize love. A beautiful stone will be treasured forever. A beautiful stone represents forever. To be handed down from generation to generation. So you want to be sure you are getting the right one. It pays to do some research before buying, exploring your options. Diamonds are hundreds of millions of years old, so take a little time finding yours.

The 4C'S

STEP ONE, UNDERSTANDING THE FOUR C'S?

The quality and value of a diamond is judged on four fundamental criteria known as the four C\'s. The carat-weight, colour, clarity and cut. By understanding these qualities you can determine which traits are most important to you, and find a balance between them that best suits your needs.

There are no cheap diamonds. There are expensive diamonds and inexpensive ones, depending on shape, size and quality. Set your budget, and then decide on the characteristics you want. Whatever your budget may be, the aim is to get your moneys worth.

CARAT-WEIGHT

The weight of a diamond is expressed in carats. The word carat comes from the carob tree whose seed was used as the standard of weighing precious stones. 1 carat equals 0.2 grams. A carat is further subdivided into 100 points. 0.50 ct = 1/2 carat = 50 points. Weight is the most obvious factor in determining the value of a diamond. But two diamonds of equal weight may have very unequal values, depending on their quality. Furthermore weight only indicates size. Depending on proportions two diamonds weighing the same may appear very different in size. Internationally, the weight of a diamond is mentioned to two decimal places.

Deciding on carat size is really about striking a balance between size and quality.

CLARITY

Most diamonds have inclusions or imperfections. The number, size, position, contrast and visibility of these inclusions determine the clarity grading. Clarity is graded under overhead lighting with 10-x magnification. Grades correspond to the International Clarity Grading Scale. (See insert) Inclusions falling into grades of SI and better are generally not eye visible. Depending on your preference you may choose a diamond of lower clarity and better colour or larger size, or vice versa.

COLOUR

Most gem quality diamonds fall within the Cape series, a range of colour from colourless to yellow. D or colourless diamonds are rare. The colour of a diamond is determined on the basis of a visual assessment by comparing it to a set of master diamonds under laboratory conditions. The differences between colours are very subtle and graded according to the International Colour Grading Scale.

Diamonds exist in many colours, such as blue, pink, purple, yellow or red. With the exception of these natural fancy colours, the colourless grade "D" is the most valuable. Colours D to J are best for setting in white gold or platinum. Yellow gold settings are better for lower colours. Diamonds with a slight brown or grey body colour will be given an Equivalent Colour Grading (ECG).

Fluorescence is a natural characteristic of diamonds, occurring from sub microscopic structures within the diamond. Diamonds can have various colours of fluorescence, with blue being the most common. Many consider fluorescence an undesirable characteristic. However, in some cases, fluorescence can improve appearance rather than detract from it, by making the diamond appear whiter. Fluorescence grades are: nil, slight, medium and strong.

CUT

Cut refers to the shape, which is determined by an individuals taste. There are many different shapes available so take time to look around and see what shape is your preference. The Round Brilliant is the most traditional shape, however the Square Princess, Square emerald or Asscher cut, as well as other fancy cut diamonds have become very popular.

More importantly cut refers to the proportions, symmetry, and finish or make of the diamond. The cut of a Diamond is the only property, which is totally dependent on man. Each stone loses, on average, more than half its original weight during cutting and polishing. Proportions and angles influence the internal reflection of light as well as the dispersion of light leaving the diamond. This determines the brilliance and fire (brightness and sparkle) of the diamond, and ultimately its beauty. How well cut a diamond is will reflect in the price.

Is There An Ideal Cut?

When it comes to Round Brilliant diamonds you will encounter many marketing terms. Russian Cut, Hearts and Arrows, Ideal Cut to name but a few. No, there is no one optimum cut. There are several so called Ideal cuts all with slightly different proportions. These are all variations of the original Tolkowsky Ideal, depending on the taste of the relevant market. For example the European market prefers a slightly larger table to the American market. Ultimately taste and preference for the overall appearance will determine the buyer\'s choice. There is no doubt that working within definite parameters yields a better stone but in the end your eye should make the final decision. So look around, compare diamonds and see what you fancy.

THE 5TH "C"

STEP TWO, CERTIFICATION EQUALS CONFIDENCE

All the above does not mean much if you don\'t have the Fifth and final C

Certified (adj) endorsed authoritatively as having met certain requirements; holding appropriate documentation and officially on record as qualified to perform a specified function or practice a specified skill.

Accurate assessment of a diamond is only possible prior to being set. Once the stone is set even a qualified diamond grader cannot precisely determine colour, size and purity. The Diamond Certificate is only reliability if it is from an independent and qualified laboratory. Besides the international standards to which these laboratories grade, qualified laboratories have the necessary equipment to check for Synthetics, Simulants and treatments. Synthetic and treated diamonds have a significantly lower value, and this information should be disclosed. So always insist on a diamond grading certificate from an independent and recognized diamond grading laboratory.

Visit www.independentlycertifieddiamonds.com for more advice on laboratories.

Most reputable retailers sell independently certified diamonds. Why independent? This assures an unbiased and objective assessment of the diamond. A conflict of interest exists if the person selling the diamond also determines the grade.

Shopping for independently certified diamonds allows you to make an informed choice about your selections, and to comparison shop.

Be aware a valuation is not a diamond grading report. The quality of any diamond assessed after having been set can only be estimated. A diamond grading report should include a plotted diagram of your diamond and all significant characteristics, including cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight. The report will also describe the diamond\'s shape, exact measurements, proportions and percentages as well as grade the overall proportions, symmetry and polish. It should also comment on the characteristics like fluorescence, graining, and any material characteristics of the diamond.

The increased prevalence of treated diamonds, synthetic diamonds and diamond simulants makes certification vitally important to ensure you have a natural untreated diamond.

Conflict Diamonds

In 1998, Global Witness, a non-governmental organisation (NGO), made the world aware of the fact that certain rebel movements in Africa were selling, amongst other things, illegally obtained diamonds, known as conflict diamonds, to fund their wars against legitimate and internationally recognised governments.

Making sure that your diamond is certified independently, also means that it is "on the record", has come through the right channels and guaranteed conflict free.

To learn more about what the diamond industry is doing to ensure that diamond purchasing is conflict-free, you can visit a number of sites including
http://diamondfacts.org,
http://www.worlddiamondcouncil.com and
http://www.gemex.com.au/conflict_diamonds